Early autumn holiday, 26 September 2023

Notre-Dame-de-Mesage, Auvergne

The weather has - tell it not in Gath, publish it not in the streets of Askelon - been being absolutely glorious, warm and sunny. But it is autumn, and early mornings and late evenings are chilly, if not cold. This, of course, means that there is a heavy dew overnight, and my feet got soaked when I went out for an early-morning dash round the playing-fields before breakfast! I was delighted to find some field mushrooms, which made a wonderful addition to the meal! 

After breakfast, our first port of call was a supermarket, and we were delighted to find, while we were there, that it had a launderette in the car park.

We are just under half-way through our holiday, so decided to profit from the occasion to do a load of laundry. I shopped and the SW got diesel and then his coffee while this was happening. Unfortunately, though, the dryer wasn't working, and although it did take the worst off, our clothes were by no means dry. However, Park4Night is very good at telling you where there are public laundry facilities, and I discovered there was one within a few minutes of where we are staying tonight, so we had lunch and then spent most of the afternoon driving down here. 

We drove down past Grenoble, and the turnoff to Villard-de-Lans, wishing that we were going there for the Mountain Cup again - so many wonderful memories, so many friends made, so much fun had.... I do realise it's uneconomic to hold it now, and the rink is not particularly helpful, but I know I'm not the only one to miss it badly. Not that I skate any more, and it's only a dream...but we did have such fun! 

Anyway, we got here at last. We are parked up in the car park of a tennis-court/football pitch complex, and there is a constant stream of cars dropping off children for practice! I could be in Walthamstow on a Monday night - the main difference being the adults don't go in with their children to register them, but just turf them out of the car and drive off. 

The SW has gone for a walk which he says looks lovely - I'm hoping to do a shorter version with him in the morning - and I will start supper soon. I had been going to do a chicken casserole, but we are not quite level this evening, and that sort of dish is easier to cook on the level, so we'll have Leberkäse with an egg and chips and a fried tomato, I think. The casserole can wait - and by then I will have bought leeks and mushrooms, which always improves it! Last night's fishcakes, by the way, were delicious, but did fall apart rather.... And I have finished my gooseberry chutney!

Early autumn holiday, 25 September 2023

Saint-André-du-Vieux-Jonc

We did like the campsite we were in last night, mostly because the owner was so nice. He not only took orders for bread last night, he even delivered it! And he let us put off registering, etc, until we were about to leave.

First port of call was a Super U; didn't need much, but got almost everything we did need, except I forgot fizzy water. But then there was a problem with the hab door, which didn't want to lock, and the Swan Whisperer didn't remember that this has happened before or how to fix it. However, he managed in the end, and we drove to Besançon, where we parked up at what we think is the citadel.

We had lunch, and the SW went for a quick  explore, but I was very sleepy and, indeed, ended up dozing most of the way to here, near Bourg-en-Bresse, which is a lovely little aire for 5 motor homes, gravel pitches separated by bushes, in a park (photos on Facebook).

The SW is sat outside reading, but I made fishcakes for tonight's supper and put them in the fridge to firm up (I am very bad at making fishcakes, but they will taste good,whatever!) and then went  for a wander and got soaked testing the taps on the services! So am in my pyjamas, but as another motor home has now joined us, don't quite like to go out to do a tai chi practice! Oh well! 

Early autumn holiday, 24 September 2023

Geneuille, Franche-Comté

Gérardmer, it transpires, is pronounced "Jeremy" (or thereabouts) because the name derives from Gérard d'Alsace, who established a tower or hunting lodge or something on the banks of the Jamagne (local river); the suffix "mer" coming from an old Oil language word meaning the garden. Hence its pronunciation; conversely the nearby villages of Longemer and Retournemer take their name from "mare", the water body in old French, but which explains why their suffix is pronounced "mère". 

So that is where we were this morning. I got up first and went to the bakery for a baguette and pains aux raisins, which threw me by having chocolate in them. No thanks! But the baguette was sourdough and lovely! It was a glorious morning, but very cold and very misty.

The bakery was only across the road, so when I got back the Swan Whisperer was still getting dressed, so I started to get breakfast. 

This was a disaster! There was nothing wrong with the baguette or the scrambled eggs, but first I knocked the aeropress over, spilling all my coffee grounds into the sink (It could have been worse - it could have been on the floor!), and then, when I had ground a new lot, the straining lid fell off the aeropress and into my cup, taking all the grounds with it. The Swan Whisperer rescued it, but the resulting brew was so weak and (by then) a bit cold that I had to have another cup after our walk. Most unlike me - I usually only have one cup a day, and perhaps a small cup after tai chi on Wednesdays. 

Anyway, after breakfast we did go for a walk, which was lovely. We didn't go all round the lake - it is 6 km all the way round, and the SW, who did it yesterday evening, said the path was very uneven and unpleasant to walk on. He also didn't really want to do it again! So we contented ourself with walking to the lake and round a bit of it before heading back to town - about 3 km in total. 

Then it was time for church, which we were able to listen to on livestream from our home church, and when it was finished we headed south towards this village which is, I think, near Besançon. We stopped for lunch en route, so didn't get to this campsite until about 5. Nobody in reception, so I rang the proprietor who said to settle in and he would come and see us in due course.

He's just been - lovely man; we are to register and settle up, etc, in the morning, and have ordered our baguette and croissants for 8:30! It is a pleasant campsite - I've not taken any photos yet - but very basic, but on the banks of the Ognon - the river Onion!!! Photos of Gérardmer on Facebook. 

Early autumn holiday, 23 September

Gérardmer, or Gérômé, as it is pronounced locally.

So we are back in France, but not before shopping in Germany! I was delighted to score both Federweißer and a basket of squash to take home (I am about to drink at least some of the Federweißer!), among other things. 

We also stopped off at a DM, where I got various travel-sized bits and bobs.

Then we tried to get back into France, but roadworks on the bridge meant access was basically for cars and small vans only, and just too narrow for us, so we followed the lorry route which took us practically half way to Münich (I exaggerate) before getting back. We found out, too late, too late, that there would have been an intermediate route we could have taken, which would probably have been a great deal quicker. And then, if course, the Satnav had reset itself so it took us through the Saint-Dié tunnel, which we had asked it not to do! Pity it can't pay the toll for us, too!

We eventually arrived here and parked up in an enormous aire, which is free during the day, and just €7 overnight. I should have liked to have accompanied the SW on his walk, but feel rather tired and a bit achey - not unwell, just stiff - so decided it could wait until tomorrow, even though most of the shops will be shut. 

Early autumn holiday, 22 Se[ptember 2023

Kehl, Germany.

It's days like today when you know why you have a motor home and go on touring holidays rather than spending the time in one place!

We got up early this morning and we're away by 09:30, retracing our steps about 20 km to visit the town of Bitche (pronounced "Beach") which we had gone through yesterday and looked worth visiting.

Indeed it was. The motorhome aire was free, although we only used it to empty grey water (I believe buying water and rinsing one's loo out did cost about €2, but we didn't need to do that), and actually parked in the main car park. What we had come to visit was the Citadelle, which was up rather a steep slope - to my irritation, I couldn't manage it without a couple of stops for breath. But I got there in the end, and the SW was very patient with me!

Once we got there, we discovered that there was a path all the way round, about 1km long, and fairly flat, which they recommended you walk round, so that's what we did. It was seriously lovely, views both over the town and of the citadel itself, now a monument.

When we had gone all round it, we went back to the van and headed to a local Intermarché, where I did a shopping and the SW got diesel. I don't know why people say the French are unhelpful - this is almost never true in my experience, and today was no exception; the bill came to a little more than the authorised limit for contactless, and I'd left my credit cards in the WoMo - so she suggested I pay in two lots! Which I did. Very helpful.

Then it was time to head on - not very far today, just to Kehl, where we have been so many times before, usually much later in the year as a base for the Christmas markets in Strasbourg. The SW set the Satnav to cross the Rhine at a barrage - forget its name - and then take us up-river towards Kehl. It was lovely - you can't see the actual Rhine, as it is up a high embankment, but there is a small stream or canal flowing alongside - presumably for overflow purposes - which obviously has a lot of fish in it. We saw loads of heron, a coot or two, masses of swans, and a cormorant. I could not think what the latter was called, and had to have recourse to the silly poem about laying eggs in paper bags.

The aire is fuller than it usually is in December (such a surprise!) but there was still room for us. I would have liked to have gone into Kehl to shop, but when push came to shove, I realised I would get over-tired if I did; I still have to pace myself a bit despite being massively better. The SW set off to go to Strasbourg, but he missed a tram and then it started to rain, so he came back. And I had bought us choucroute for supper - we were, after all, in Alsace - so we have just eaten that, and I think it is time to close our shutters for the night. 

Early autumn holiday, 21 September 2023

Obersteinbach, Alsace 

I slept badly last night, with the result that I went back to sleep after my alarm clock had gone off, and didn't stir until gone 9. This put us late for the morning, and it wasn't until about 11:45 that we found ourselves in the blissfully warm waters of Thermapolis. We have been here twice before, and it was as good as ever, and rather less crowded. After a wonderful massage and pummelling that left me very relaxed and sleepy, we thought we had better do some shopping before lunch. 

However, when we arrived at the nearest E Leclerc, we found that the car park was surrounded by height barriers, so there was no way in for the likes of us! Well, if they don't want our custom, they needn't have it. Their loss! 

We had, we realised, parked up by a bakery, so I went in and bought a multigrain baguette and a couple of chaussons de pommes, and we had a nice lunch, albeit without the carrot salad the Swan Whisperer has been longing for (I didn't buy it when we arrived as we had some coleslaw to finish; that has now happened). 

Then it was time to head on to our next port of call, here at Obersteinbach. We have been here before , too, but it stopped being a France Passion host during the pandemic. I was delighted to see that it has started up again - it has now put in loos and a picnic area, as well as the barn where you can see the goats.

We bought some yoghurt at the farm shop, plus a saucisson sec and a couple of goats' cheeses, one pepper and one "Garden vegetables". And an ice-cream cone each.

As we have Plans for tomorrow, and want to get away early, the SW decided to go for a walk in the woods, as he does love it. However, the sky looked very threatening and just as he said he was about to go, the heavens opened! That was a fairly short shower, though, and he dodged the raindrops to go up to the border and see a rock formation he likes.

And then he came back and we had supper (tomato and vegetable sauce with tortellini and cheese), and it is raining and raining! I do love to hear the rain on the roof, but I hope it will be away before morning. 

Early Autumn Holiday, 20 September 2023

Amnéville. 

Bother, bother, bother! We realised today that I had - and the Swan Whisperer had not noticed I had - misdated the spreadsheet, so we have a day less than we thought. It actually doesn't really matter, though, as the campsite where we had been going to go on 29 September closes the next day for the winter, so we can just leave it out and have the planned rest day then. I think, though, we might have to find a launderette a little earlier, we shall see!

I wish I could say that the Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, but he is not yet quite able for that, but he did go for a walk/jog before breakfast. After it, we both went for a walk into the village of Montaigu, which wasn't particularly attractive.

Then I went to the farm shop where we were staying and bought some pâté, eggs and some "porc en gelée", which will make a nice meal sometime.

Then it was time to head on, first looking for a burger bar in a London bus which was supposed to be in the village, but we didn't find it, and then stopping at the next village to go to the bakery, where we bought quiches and a lemon and a rhubarb tart for lunch (so we haven't had the pâté yet, after all!).

We arrived here in Amnéville at about 16:30, and after taking on more water (we will use the rest of the services in the morning), we had a cup of tea, and then the Swan Whisperer went for a walk and I read and knitted. Tomorrow we will go to the Thermapolis, our main reason for going this way. I hope the weather will remain as glorious as it has been all day - even now, at 20:15, it is still very warm.