Bisecting the Hexagon, 26 March

After breakfast this morning, we visited the Prune Museum, which was quite interesting, showing how the drying and preserving of prunes had evolved from simply shoving them into your bread oven to today's drying tunnels. More interesting, I found, was the video showing how it is done today. After this there was a tasting session, although I was mindful of Boy Too's dictum that eating more than two prunes a day could make you uncomfortable! I bought some prunes, and some prune-based spreads, in the shop, and then it was time for coffee after the rather sweet prunes dipped in chocolate we had been eating.

Then en route. Our first port of call was a services where we could finally empty the loo and the grey, and then a big supermarket where I did a shopping and then we had lunch. Then we drove across country to this very pretty little town called Montignac, where the aire is lovely, all provided including electricity for only €8 per night. We have had a cup of tea and the SW has gone for a walk.

Bisecting the Hexagon, 25 March

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, so I didn't hurry out of bed and it was gone 10 when we eventually strolled along the road and over to the funicular, which took us up to the historic part of Pau. We had  a delightful walk round the castle area and then back towards the centre of the town, including a Monoprix where we did a small shopping, including 2 bottles of my favourite shower gel! I was quite surprised to find we were back at the funicular, as I'd quite thought we had gone  a block further over.

The Swan Whisperer had coffee and a muffin (why, when he can have one at home any day?) in the station café, and then it was time to move on. We stopped for lunch, and again for the SW to buy new shoes as his were showing signs of imminent demise, and once where we hoped there were services, but they were out of use. We are fine for water, and can fill up here if we need to, but emptying is rapidly becoming a bit of an issue.

"Here" is a very pleasant spot which is an active plum growers and a museum and shop selling prunes and prune products. We were too late for the museum but plan to go in the morning, and I shall buy some prunes and also some prune and hazelnut spread which was yummy - I had a taste!

Then the SW went for a walk while I got supper ready and we had a glass of wine from Mas Alart which was gorgeous and went well with our butternut, mushroom and leek risotto!

Bisecting the Hexagon, 24 March

Today is Sunday, and we decided to spend it in the city of Pau, and attend public worship at St Andrew's English church there. So we got up at a fairly respectable hour and arrived in Pau in good time to be able to park up outside the church.

It was a lovely service and the church was full, largely because a couple had decided to renew their marriage vows on their 10th wedding anniversary, so of course family and friends had come to wish them well. The church is very splendid, full-on Oxford Movement with frescoes all round the Communion table, and virulent stained-glass windows! Current churchmanship is fairly middle-of-the-road, though. We are made very welcome, and were happy to share in refreshments for a while after the service.

We went for a short walk round the town, but I discovered I was very tired and really in need of a rest day, so we brought the van down to the aire in the lower town, and although the SW had been exploring, I have had a quiet afternoon dozing and reading. I shall want to explore a bit tomorrow, though, before we begin to head north.

Bisecting the Hexagon, 23 March

This being Saturday, there was a parkrun and today the Swan Whisperer did the parkrun de la Ramée, which he thoroughly enjoyed and was pleased with his time of 22.05 and 78.11% of his age range.

Mind you, by the time he got back from that and had a shower and some more to eat (he had had some coffee and a flapjack - oh, excuse me, a vegan flapjack - while at the run) it was getting quite late. 

Or first port of call was at an E Leclerc at a place called Roques, which was absolutely enormous, and also had a motorhome aire with services, so the SW did that while I shopped. No queue, but the checkout person said it got quiet around noon on Saturdays. 

We decided we had had enough minor roads and set off down the motorway, stopping at a gare du péage to have lunch, after which I went sound asleep and didn't stir until we reached the outskirts of Lourdes. We found the parking place very easily, and after a cup of tea we both got our second winds and walked into the town and up to the grotto and back. 

I got some of the holy water and bought some little bottles to put it in - don't know if anybody would like some, but if you would and if I'm likely to see you within the next month, please let me know.

Bisecting the Hexagon, 22 March

Although we  are not really planning to leave the Pyrenees until Monday, we have gone quite a long way (the Swan Whisperer says 30 miles, but I think it's a lot more) out of our way to the outskirts of Toulouse so he can do a parkrun tomorrow. There are only 8 parkruns in France, so he has to do 3 of them this holiday!

We said goodbye to our hosts and stocked up on water - she told us it was rather hard, because of the chalky soil, but I grew up on the South Downs so am well used to it!

Then we drove to a supermarket on the outskirts of Perpignan - I am always surprised to discover that it is a real place - and I shopped while the SW got diesel. I was not impressed because the Carrefour had a Scan'n'Shop, but my card didn't work and the man told me it was because they had their own special programming and you had to be registered at that particular branch as it was the only one to have that particular kind. And then I forgot to present my card at the till.... Oh well. Tomorrow's shopping will be an E Leclerc.... 

Then followed a horrendously long drive on minor roads to this place Tournefeuille. The SW has gone for a walk to see where he needs to report in the morning and I am hoping this park doesn't close at night so they will move us on, but I don't think it does. And the SW says we can use the motorway tomorrow - after two very long days on often very minor roads I am fed up of them!

Bisecting the Hexagon, 21 March

So today we completed the southbound bisection and reached the Mediterranean, where we had lunch!

But before then, it was another extremely cold morning, and we were glad of the van's heating system while we were getting up. And when we walked into the village to get bread, we wore coats on top of jerseys! 

Coming back, we stopped off at the lake near which we had parked, and there was a swan who looked a bit aggressive. I don't know whether he had a mate brooding somewhere, though I doubt it as there was another swan on another part of the lake and you wouldn't get two pairs on the same stretch of water. I told the SW to talk to it and took a picture of him doing so!

When we did set off, it was another lovely drive through places that were so stereotypically Southern France as to be almost silly. It is wine country, and every other signpost was Clos This, Domaine de That, Mas the Other and even the occasional  Chateau Sky-Blue-Pink. 

Spring is definitely here, with green leaves on the trees and swallows flying about. And then - there was the Med in all its turquoise glory! We stopped for lunch in a scenic area, and then, because we were early, the SW drove us down to Port-Vendres, which was quite pretty, but I had had enough, as by then it was warm enough for bare sleeves and open windows. I did suggest we took a quick run into Spain to get cheap diesel, but himself thought not. 

Anyway we ended up at Mas Alart, where we have been twice before, and we bought a dozen bottles of their lovely wine. The SW went for a walk, and soon I shall cook supper. Risotto tonight, I think.

Bisecting the Hexagon, 20 March

It's getting to the stage of the holiday where neither of us is quite sure what the date is, or what day it is! But today was All About Millau, really. Or, perhaps, all about the A75, quite the nicest motorway I know.

We were up at a reasonable hour, despite the fact that it was bitterly cold and frosty (but the van warms up fast), and when the supermarket opened I went  in and did a shopping, and then we moved on. It was a lovely drive down the A75.

Our first stop was at an aire called Garabit-Viaduc Eiffel, which has a lovely view over the viaduct. I had caught a glimpse of it once before, and I think it was featured on Impossible Railways of one of those, but this was the first time I'd seen it properly.  

 

Then we drove in to Millau and stopped in the aire there. The SW went up to the belvedere, and then looked round the exhibits, but we've seen them before. I hope we could have lunch in the gourmet café there, but it was closed for the winter, so we just had our usual lunch. Then we headed on, mostly cross-country this time, through some truly spectacular scenery, until reached this little town called Lunas, where we are parked up. A very nice aire, and the village itself reminds us both of Pont-en-Royans, though  without the suspended houses.

The SW went for a walk, and now I am cooking supper, which is nearly ready. It has been lovely and warm, but will be frosty overnight again. I'm glad our beds are so warm and snug.