NCC Pertisau Holiday, 30 July 2025

Blériot-Plage, Calais, Hauts-de-France

The last full day of our holiday started rather well, with a champagne tasting at Boulard Bouquaire, where we had spent the night.  We tasted a rosé, but decided that we have had nicer sparkling rosés, and eventually bought two bottles of a "blanc de blanc" 2019 called Mélanie, to celebrate the owner's mother, who - I didn't gather whether she had been then, or was today - 101 years old!  

After that, the Swan Whisperer had his coffee and we headed on.  We decided to go non-toll, as we had plenty of time.  Our route took us to Landrecies, where we have stopped several times before, either overnight or for lunch, but the aire was full, so we headed on and eventually stopped for lunch in a Carrefour car park near Valenciennes.  Not that I was that hungry - my insides told me rather firmly that tasting champagne at 10:00 am was a Bad Idea.

We drove on all afternoon, getting held up in a couple of places by road works - not too badly, but at one lot there was the added misery of a very heavy shower.  However, that passed, and the afternoon was sunny and warm.

We arrived at Cité Europe at about 16:00 and had a cup of tea before I went over and did a Last Shop in France, and then drove up here to the aire.  I had suggested we go to the park-n-ride, but the Swan Whisperer preferred the aire for security reasons. Plus we have electricity here, which is always nicer.  

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 29 July 2025

Cormicy, Grand-Est, France

Today has actually been pretty fine and warm, apart from a few spits and spots of rain, but mostly sunny.  Which makes a change.  The Swan Whisperer went for a walk before breakfast, coming back with croissants and a demi-baguette, and then said there was a 7 km walk that one could do in the woods.  He was obviously longing to do it, and why not?  So he went and did that and it was late morning by the time we had used the services and headed off, and by the time I had done some shopping at a local Carrefour - which had not, I think, had its full delivery of food, as there were quite a few empty spots on the shelves.  However, I did manage to get what I wanted, mainly milk and cream cheese, although they didn't have the Madame Loic we love, but I got an own-brand version of the same thing, which will do for now.

Most of our run today was on the A4, but we came off to join the D937 across country towards Reims, and so to this champagne  place, which is France Passion.  I believe they charge €10 for a tour and small tasting, which will be most enjoyable - except the SW won't be able to have more than a couple of sips as he is driving! There is a lovely view out of the windscreen,

and it is very quiet except for some doves cooing!  We were warmly welcomed by a large golden retriever, who I think is called Leo, and his owner greeted us warmly and told us we were welcome.  The SW went for a short walk before supper, which was fish with lemon-butter sauce, green beans and mashed potato (the latter, I regret to say, bought, as we are out of potatoes and the French don't seem able to sell them in small quantities!), followed by fruit salad (nectarine, strawberries and raspberries) with yoghurt and caramel sauce.  Lush!  I bought some gooseberries the other day, and the SW has been stewing them, so we'll be having those with our yoghurt tomorrow, which will be our last night in France.  

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 28 July 2025

St-Avold, Grand-Est, France

Once again it was not raining this morning - we have had rain today, but nothing like the past two days.  I went for a brief leg-stretch to look at the Rhine, and was delighted to see the most enormous barge laden with containers going downstream.

We were in no hurry this morning, and didn't set off until well past 10.  Our first port of call was a ReWe, where I did a Last Shop in Germany (yes, Mummy, I did get those coloured eggs we like!), wondering whether to get some of the delicious-looking white wine they were selling.  Much as it pains me to say this, I think Germany and Austria may do nicer white wine than France, but nobody can compare with Mas Alart's rosé!

We then set off on today's relatively short journey back to France, stopping for lunch only about 30 minutes short of our destination.  We are in a Camping-Car park - I did book, but need not have as we are the only people here.  Nothing wrong with the place, and it's half-way between Saarbrucken and Metz, so quite a useful stopping-place.  I have to admit that I slept most of the journey - I hadn't slept terribly well last night, what with traffic noise, and the noise of the rain on the roof.

The Swan Whisperer has been for his usual walk, and I dozed and read most of the afternoon.  I am now cooking supper of a huge vegetable stew with lardons, accompanied by green beans.  The stew/hash/whatever should do us twice.

NCC Pertisau holiday, 27 July 2025

Karlsruhe, Germany

It was a bit dreich this morning, but the Swan Whisperer attempted a run anyway - not a success as he got a twinge in whatever body part it is he gets twinges in, and had to come back.  However, it wasn't raining, so after breakfast I went for a short walk, enjoying the geese by the lake.

We set off fairly soon after breakfast, as the SW wanted to get here (Karlsruhe) ASAP in case the aire was full.  When we started, we should have arrived by about 12:30, but there was hold-up after hold-up on the motorway, especially past Pforzheim where they are rebuilding it, and it was about 14:00 before we arrived.  We had stopped briefly for the SW to make and gulp down a cup of coffee, but that was all.  The weather didn't help - although the sun came out at times, there were also a great many heavy showers, too!

When we got here, we found there were still a couple of spaces in the aire, so that was all right.  As it's Sunday, no shops are open or anything, so I have spent the afternoon reading and answering emails and so on, and the SW has gone out for a long walk and got wet!  This device is running out of battery, so must stop.

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 26 July

Somewhere in Germany

I'm not quite sure where we are tonight - I think it may be somewhere called Kissing, which seems unlikely.

We had hoped to go for a last boat trip this morning, and then back to the campsite by bus, but it was raining so hard that we would have been soaked, so we decided, regretfully, that this was not going to work. So we used the services and headed off in the pouring rain down to Jenbach (well, it had to be raining there, didn't it!) and so up the Inn valley to Kufstein, where we stopped for the SW to have coffee and me to visit an Austrian Lidl, which I don't think I've done before. There was also a Bipa and a KIk in the same complex, both of which I visited, and and look how restrained I was:

Had any of those large balls been navy or even a brighter blue, I couldn't have resisted, but I resist I did!

And so we headed on in the rain up wet motorways and wet side-roads, finding a parking-space on a side road to stop and eat lunch, including this patisserie from Lidl:

But when we got to our planned stopping-place in Augsburg, it was full. I am sad, as there is a very nice Norma and an off-licence just a short walk away. Oh well. The Swan Whisperer found this place which is basically a huge, empty car park - I think there may be another WoMo here, but the lines are separated by hedges, so I can't see it. No services, no nothing, and precious little signal!

The SW went for a walk round the lake which this is the car-park for, and I fell fast asleep! I hope I sleep tonight, and I hope - probably vainly - that the rain will go away. I can't believe that a week ago I was in shorts and a light top - now it's jeans and a sweatshirt! Maybe the weather will improve as we get further north. I hope so. 

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 24 July 2025

Maurach-am-Achensee, Tirol.

We were up very early this morning.  We were going to have to catch the 09:10 to Jenbach if we were to make the steam train to Mayrhofen, today's official excursion.  However, given how packed out the bus had been on Monday, we decided we would get the bus an hour earlier, then change to the Pertisau-bound bus and stay on it to Jenbach.  This would have worked better had the driver not been a complete jobsworth who insisted we disembark and wait in the rain for him to come round again.  Which we did, although there was some shelter under the edge of the Boathouse.  Why we couldn't have waited at the terminus of Karwendelbahn, I will never know.  However, the bus wasn't too crowded when Herr Jobsworth finally brought it back round, yelling at people who weren't showing their tickets, and goodness knows what all else....

Of course, it was raining in Jenbach - I am quite convinced that if it ever stopped raining there, the town would vanish!  I've never seen it in anything other than rain!  We had almost an hour to wait for the train, which was profitably spent drinking coffee in the little café and reminding ourselves of the trip to Mayrhofen that the girls took in "Princess of the Chalet School".  Meanwhile, our tickets were obtained for us and in due course we clambered into our reserved coach at the very back of the steam train.  The wooden carriage was very beautiful, but I had a severe case of chapelbottom by the time we arrived!

We enjoyed a walk round Mayrhofen, stopping to have a not very nice lunch (at least, mine wasn't - the SW swears his was delicious!) in a random café, and then an utterly delicious ice-cream (actually a sorbet in my case) further along the road.  We then walked back to the station in good time for the 14:49.  The journey, in greater comfort than that of the outward leg, cost 1/3 as much, but then, it wasn't steam-hauled!  Back at Jenbach, the heavens promptly opened and there was a massive thunderstorm.  The kind driver - not Herr Jobsworth this time - let us all get on the bus as soon as it arrived, even though it would not be setting off for another few minutes. The bus was soon fuller than it could comfortably hold, but we got to Maurach all right, at which time it turned into the Achenkirch bus, so we had no need to change, and got back to the campsite.  The SW is having a nap and snoring very loudly - if it wasn't for the fact that I must get supper in half an hour, I'd follow his example.

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 23 July

Maurach-am-Achensee, Tirol

The planned excursion for today was a trip up the Gramaialm, in a tractor-trailor outfit called the Huttopia Express, and, while some - a majority, I think - planned to walk back, many of us chose to ride on a vintage coach called the Nostalgiebus.

We had to catch the 09:10 bus to get to Pertisau on time, which meant we were about an hour too early, but there was a coffee-shop so we sat there and the SW and the other Chaletian who is staying in Maurach both had coffee - I had only fairly recently finished my breakfast coffee, and didn't want anything.  Eventually the others turned up - two of our number had hired electric bikes to go up to that and a couple of other alms!  We were asked to buy our tickets in the sports shop rather than from the driver, which was a huge bonus as it meant we could pay by card rather than having to fork out cash.  

It was a slightly dull ride up to the alm, as we couldn't really see out of the trailer. I was in the back trailer, which the driver had recommended those of us who were "less sporty" use - the SW, needless to say, went in the front trailer, which was rather higher.  When we arrived, many people decided to go on the 20-minute hike to see a waterfall; I didn't go, but sat and drank apple juice with some friends, and took a variety of photos.  There was a helicopter which, we discovered, was pulling up a dead cow from a field, and I later saw it being carried on a forklift or similar in front of a tractor into the farmyard. 

Our crowd gradually returned from their various walks, and we had lunch at the restaurant at the top of the alm; the SW and I both chose the Tirolean "Grostli", which was a mixture of onions, bacon and fried potatoes topped with a fried egg, with cabbage salad on the side.  And very good it was, too, even though I couldn't finish half of my potatoes. We washed it down with beer.   

The bus was due to leave at 13:30, and the walkers were going to wait until it had safely gone before they set off.  I enjoyed the bus far more than the trailer - I sat near the front and we could see out of the front windows, although I didn't take any photos.  The bus dropped us near the Karwendelbahn, and I eventually got a bus from there back to Maurach.  I'd meant to go for a swim, but sadly, my insides decided to confirm my suspicion that they really can't cope with pickled cabbage any more.... Grrr!  So I just flopped and read most of the afternoon.  Either that or too many restaurant meals in too few days.... And another one tomorrow at Mayrhofen.

NCC Pertisau holiday, 22 July 2025

Maurach-am-Achensee, 22 July 2205

Today was, for me, a rest day.  Many people were going into Innsbruck, but the Swan Whisperer wanted to do one of his favourite walks, from Achenkirch back down to Pertisau, and I knew I was tired and needed to rest.  Which was justified by the fact that I slept incredibly badly - even with a rug over my duvet (the summer-weight 4.5 tog one) I was cold, and I had cramp.  Which I hope wasn't caused by the wine I'd drunk, as I've just drunk another glass of the same brew, and it was delicious!

So, anyway, I also needed to do a week's worth of washing, but when I went over to do it, the machine was occupied, and it was about 11:00 before I could get the first load on.  Washed that okay, and then put the second load on, but the dryer was in use.  And the man who was using it said crossly that it wasn't drying his clothes at all.  When the Swan Whisperer went to get some more euro coins for us to use it, he was told it was out of order!!! Wouldn't you have thought they would have put a notice on it saying so???

The SW, who is good at that sort of thing, fished out our washing-line and the poor WoMo has been festooned with damp washing ever since! It is beginning to dry, and I'm pretty sure most of it will be dry by morning, but it is annoying not having been able to dry it as tumble-drying does seem to mean we don't need to iron so much, if at all! And no, we are not installing one in our flat - an iron takes up less room and is less damaging to the environment!

I had half thought of going for a swim at the Atoll this afternoon, but when push came to shove I really wasn't feeling it, so spent the afternoon reading and dozing.  I hope I'll sleep tonight - I'll use the heavier rug, I think, and it may not be so chilly.  I don't want to put on the heavier, 10.5 tog, duvet as the lighter one has really been all we've needed during the earlier part of the holiday

.Anyway, the washing festooning the place meant I really couldn't cook without a great deal of inconvenience, so we went to the campsite's restaurant and had a delicious meal - I had beef with onions and rosemary potatoes,

which were utterly delicious, and the SW had Käsespätzle, which also looked lovely, and which came with a small salad that he shared with me.  I had been tempted to choose the same, but knew I wouldn't be able to finish the plateful - as it was, I only just finished my own!  

NCC Pertisau holiday, 21 July 2025

Maurach-am-Achensee, Tirol

The weather took a turn for the worse, we are not made of sugar, so a considerable number of us boarded the bus to Jenbach - Robert and I were actually quite lucky to get on at Maurach; we squeezed on and spent the journey on the driver's platform - nice of him to let us.

One of these days, I'll see Jenbach in the sunshine, but today was not that day.  Some people went up to the church; others, more sensibly, went and sat in the local café opposite the station. I did try to go to the church, but it was very wet, and very steep, so eventually I gave up and went back to join the sensible ones with a very nice cup of coffee.

Eventually everybody turned up and we foregathered at the station to take the Achenseebahn up to Seespitz.

We had a reserved carriage, and made the most of the journey. The first part is a rack-and-pinion railway, which is fun, but not very scenic as it is mostly in woodland. At Eben, however, the plateau begins and the engine stops pushing the train but runs round to the front to start pulling it the rest of the way, via Maurach and Maurach Mitte to Seespitz.

The boats meet the train, so we all piled off and found our reserved tables on the boat, where we were served coffee and apfelstrudel with squirty cream. Delicious, especially as the apfelstrudel was not too sweet.

The boat took us round the lake, to Gaisalm, Achenkirch and Scholastica, before calling at Gaisalm again on the way back to Pertisau, after which the formal part of the day was at an end. Some people got off, but many stayed on - we went as far as Seespitz where we then caught the train as far as Maurach Mitte to do some shopping before getting the bus back up to our campsite, where we had a couple of hours to relax before the Centenary Gala Dinner.

This was held at one of the big hotels in Pertisau, and was extremely good.  We started with pancake strips in consommé, followed by raviolis with a herb filling.  There was a choice of main courses - we had made our choices earlier.  I had lake trout with new potatoes and almonds, and the Swan Whisperer had spare ribs with potato wedges and coleslaw.  The other choices were wiener schnitzel, which may have been delicious but which smelt of hot fat, and which came with chips, and, for the vegetarians, some kind of spinach dumpling. Pudding was Kaiserschmarrn (chopped up pancakes with, in this case, a scoop of cinnamon ice cream and the most delicious stewed plums).  I had white wine, and the SW had red.  The hotel had printed commemorative menus for us,

and there were speeches, and a presentation to the person who had done 99.9% of the organising - incredibly efficiently! 

We shared a taxi back with someone else who is staying in Maurach, and went straight to bed!

NCC Pertisau Holiday 19/07/2025

Maurach-am-Achense, Tyrol, Austria

We didn't hang about this morning, as we wanted to get here early, and were away by 09:30 - with the result that the SW asked whether it was time to stop for lunch when it was only 11:30!

We had hoped to go the familiar way down as far as Fussen, but the Satnav told us there was a 30 minute holdup just out of Ulm, and we had do better to go via Munich, which we did. And there were a fair amount of holdups there, too, but nothing very major.  And then there was that lovely moment when the motorway swept round a corner and the view opened up - and there, at last, were the Alps!  And, not too long later, the first signs to the Achensee.  We came in from the Northern end, via Achenkirch, and arrived at our campsite at about 13:15 (having stopped for a coffee en route).  Checkin was quick and easy - they recognised us from last time - and apart from a few queries like where do we plug in our electricity, and when were they going to email us our visitor cards, we got settled in very quickly and had a lunch sitting out of doors in the shade - the WoMo was unbearably hot!

After lunch, we pottered for a bit and then headed to the bus stop to catch the bus to Pertisau, where we had a lovely walk pretty much along the lake up to the boat place, where we met up with some of our friends before heading to the Hotel Christina for Kaffee und Kuchen (in my case, tea and an ice-cream!) and meeting the other book club members who were there.  We have not yet got our holiday cards, and are rather annoyed that, had we known it, they are available from the Achensee Atoll Welcome Centre, just a couple of hundred metres away!  We can get them in the morning and perhaps get the boat over to Pertisau tomorrow.  Actually, we couldn't have gone on the boat trip some of the others were going on, even had we had our holiday cards by then, as it wasn't going to Buchau, which is our stop, and we would probably have missed the last bus.

As it was, we had about 20 minutes to wait for the bus - the penultimate one of the day - but it came, and the change at Maurach was as quick and easy as ever.  We got off at the Atoll, as the bus goes in there and one doesn't have to cross the very busy road, as you would at Buchau, and got home just before the rain started!  There is now a massive thunderstorm going on, which is lovely!

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 17 July 2025

Saverne, Alsace

The funfair finally quietened down at midnight - technically it closed at 23:00, but music went on thumping out until about midnight.  Not too awful, though, and we will certainly return to that aire again - it has far more spaces than the one we usually use, and they won't have funfairs all the time!

The Swan Whisperer went to get croissants in the morning, and we were ready to head on at about 10:00, stopping first for a quick visit to a supermarket.  This was a mistake, as the shop in question was going to be closed tomorrow for stocktaking, and it had obviously not had any deliveries that day, so there were quite a lot of gaps on the shelves.  Still, I got most of what I wanted.

It was a lovely drive today; although we decided not to pay motorway tolls, the route we went was nearly all either non-toll motorway or dual carriageway.  Not very well maintained, mind - you can see the difference between roads one pays to use and roads one doesn't!  The drive took us past many of our favourite places in Northern France - Chalons-en-Champagne, Vitry-le-François, Bar-le-Duc, etc, and also past many places where we have stopped for a night - Toul, Pont-au-Mousson, etc.  We stopped for lunch at the Aire de Toul - not the eponymous motorhome parking, where we have been a couple of times, but this was just a motorway services.  We didn't stop again until we got to this very nice campsite in Alsace, where we are parked up for the night.

After a cup of tea, the Swan Whisperer went for a walk and I read and crocheted until it was time to start getting supper, which was a sort of hash with lardons, potatoes, onions, mushrooms and tomatoes, topped with grated cheese!  Delicious!  Followed by yoghurt with peach compôte.

It is a lovely evening, and many people are still sitting out, although it has cooled down now.  We did eat supper outside, but have come in now, as it really wasn't quite warm enough.  

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 16 July 2025

Reims, Grand-Est

A rather dull day.  We could have arrived here in Reims really quite early, but there really wasn't much else to do ,so we decided to go non-toll, which was going to take longer.  By the time we had had breakfast (the Swan Whisperer went out to get croissants and then, as I wasn't quite ready, went to look at where other motor homes that we could see had been parked up - basically the nearest P&R!  But they seemed happy enough to let people stay overnight, so we might do that on the way back.  We'll see.

Anyway, by the time he came back and we had had breakfast, cleared up, and used the services, it was gone 10:00 by the time we set off.  We stopped near Lens for the Swan Whisperer to have coffee and I meant to just nip in to the Carrefour, but the whole shopping centre was so vast that it took longer than I intended.  All I really needed were some new pool sliders to replace mine that demised this morning (they were ancient), and the SW was low on milk, so I got some of that, and some chicken thighs to make a casserole for supper.  Which was very good, although perhaps would have been nicer with some mushrooms in it?  And the pool sliders were only €3.99!  

Anyway, we then headed on, and had planned to stop somewhere near St-Quentin for lunch, but it got later and later, so eventually we stopped in a random layby somewhere.  We then decided, since it was going to take 45 minutes less to get here if we went on the toll motorway than if we didn't, that we would remove the SatNav's prohibition on going on toll motorways, and arrived in Reims about 16:00.  This isn't where we usually stop, but another random aire I found.  No services, but plenty of room.  The only snag is that there is a funfair the other side of the car park, and we fear it may render the night hideous!  Still, it can't go on all night (can it?), and tomorrow is another rather dull driving day.

NCC Pertisau Holiday, 15 July 2025

Calais, Hauts-de-France

This holiday is basically why we couldn't go to Oberstdorf this year, as either we would have had to have set off again within a couple of days of arriving home, or we would have had to have had a six-week holiday in the motor home - which, while do-able and probably very enjoyable, wouldn't quite do as we both have responsibilities we couldn't have left for so long.

So yesterday we spent the morning packing, and in the afternoon we visited the Inspirations exhibition celebrating 200 years of passenger rail services; it was most enjoyable, despite being mostly aimed and children and despite our arriving rather later than the time stated on our tickets, due to my having failed to check where the exhibition actially was!  We then had a quick drink with the Daughter, who was just leaving work, before we headed off home again to finish packing.

This morning we got up early and had a quick breakfast before filling the car and doing all the last bits.  We left London shortly after 09:00, and despite having to stop to check the tyre pressures, arrived at the motor home at about 11:00 or shortly after.  We transferred the stuff from the car to the WoMo (getting stung by nettles in the process; at least, I did!), and then drove down to No 6 and got as much sorted out as we could before and early lunch with my mother, my sister and her partner.  Which was cold roast venison with salad and new potatoes, followed by fruit salad and cake, and cheese and biscuits if anybody wanted, which we didn't.  They had had a dinner party a couple of days earlier, so we got the leftovers - and a boxful of cold venison to have for lunch over the next few days.  Lush!

But we couldn't linger, especially as the others wanted to go fishing, and after finishing the tidying-up that needed to be done before we could set off (things in the fridge; groceries put away), we set off about 14:00 and, after a very smooth journey (I slept through most of it) arrived at Folkestone at 15:45, hoping to be offered a crossing earlier than our booked 17:16.  Unfortunately I think there had been some disruption earlier, and our booked crossing was the only option offered.  So we parked up and did things like unpacking and making the bed, and I nipped into the AA Shop to buy a new pair of seabands (why are new ones always so tight?) as one of mine had demised as we set off.  I was delighted to find they were about half what they cost in Boots!

The crossing was as straightforward as ever, except that we were delayed getting off by a couple of cars that wouldn't start and had to be towed, but once we were off we went straight to Cité Europe where I bought some money (we will probably need cash in Austria) and did some shopping, and then drove to the Camping-Car Park where we usually stay - there seems to be a rival facility across the road, which may need investigating - and had supper.  Having not slept well last night, I don't think I'll be late to bed this evening, despite having slept en route!

Early Summer Holiday, 12 June 2025

Blériot-Plage, Calais, France

Today has very much been what Anne Shirley would call a "Jonah Day".

It started off all right - the Swan Whisperer went into the town to buy bread and pains aux raisins, and came back saying that it was a lovely little town and we should go for a walk round it. So after breakfast we set off. Just as we got to the town centre - which is indeed lovely, there are photos

- the sky darkened, there was a flash of lightning and a huge peal of thunder, and the heavens opened! I did have my sweaty mac with me, which I put on, but it turned out to be as much use as a chocolate teapot, and I think I was even wetter than the Swan Whisperer by the time we got back to the WoMo and had to change out of the short and t-shirts we had been wearing! Of course, by the time we had done that and the SW had had his coffee, the sun had come out again and the weather has been lovely all day.

We had a pretty uneventful drive up to Calais - village names of the day: Pacy, Miserey and Mercey - and stopped for lunch in Vernon, where we stopped the last time we had spent the night in La-Madeleine-de-Nonancourt, what time it also thundered! Anyway, it has a chateau and an old mill across the stream, so the SW went to have a look at them while I got lunch ready.

Quite a lot of our drive after lunch was cross-country, and we joined the motorway a bit south of Neufchatel-en-Bray. We had intended to head straight to the Cité Europe along the motorways, but failed to notice a contraflow and were dumped off just past Boulogne. We don't mind going non-motorway on that route - it is very scenic - but it delayed us quite badly. We wanted to do a load of laundry in the new facilities outside the Cité Europe, but they were somehow disconnected from the Internet, and it couldn't accept our credit cards, and there is no way to pay cash. So that was a bust, and we will be doing our usual thing of endless washings when we get home. I suppose we might just have finished by Wednesday, time to go all over again. Sigh.

I nipped into Carrefour to get some fresh milk for the SW, and then we headed up here. The fridge started beeping and wouldn't light on gas, although it was fine on electricity and while driving.

For some reason the Swan Whisperer thought the gas needed to be reset, as it must have done an emergency switch-off, but he couldn't find out how to do this. And then he realised - we are utterly and totally out of gas! And there is nowhere local to get the right kind from a 24-hour automat, so although we might be able to have hot water in the morning, no way will it be hot enough for tea, and we won't be able to cook our breakfast. We drove all round Calais wishing we had realised what was wrong half an hour earlier, when we could still just have found somewhere open.

Fortunately, there was enough hot water in the thermos for a rather tepid cup of tea each, but tomorrow will be most unpleasant until the nearest garage opens at 08:30! If the SW thinks I'm going to get washed and dressed without a cup of tea inside me (it's bad enough having to wait 30 minutes after my thyroid tablet!), he has another think coming. Fortunately he is not saying that as we are going home tomorrow it's not worth it - but he had been convinced that we had enough gas to do us - as, indeed, we nearly did! 

Early summer holiday, Wednesday 11 June 2025

La-Madeleine-de-Nonancourt, Normandy, France

Felt much better this morning, thankfully, although not quite 100%, but quite well enough to go for a most enjoyable walk round Loches, which has ramparts and so on - quite steep, but steady.

More photos on Facebook, of course. The weekly market was also on, lots of cheap clothes and (ahem!) I might have been seduced by a couple of blouses.... We stopped for coffee en route, and I asked for a café allongé (American), but what I got was a double espresso! Oh well, no harm done!

Back at the WoMo, we got ready to leave and went to find the services, which weren't where we thought they were, but a very kind man told us where they were, which was rather out of our way, so we decided to leave it, and set off on the rather long drive to here, stopping for lunch and diesel in a random supermarket car park, which is an aire we have been to before, free everything (even electricity, although it seems to have gone off now, but I expect the Swan Whisperer can fix it when he gets back from his walk). It is near Dreux and Evreux, and probably about half-way between Loches and Calais, where we must be tomorrow. Last time we were here, there was a massive thunderstorm, really fabulous, and then an extremely loud and unpleasant noise going on first thing in the morning! The SW has gone for a leg--stretch, but I'm all right for now. I suppose I ought to go and do tai chi, but I'm too hot! It is hot! 

Early sumer holiday, 9 June 2025

La Roche-Posay, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France

It was a lovely morning this morning, and, despite having to pay an extra €6 for out staying our booking, we didn't hurry. The Swan Whisperer went for a walk before breakfast to try to find an open boulangerie (successfully, eventually), and afterwards went for a quick walk along the river. I went down to the river while he was emptying the loo and so on; it really is lovely there.

We knew that tonight we would be parked up in a supermarket car park (which does have services, but no electricity), so we decided we wouldn't hurry, and looked up interesting things to do en route. We found a Lidl that was open (today is a public holiday in France) and stopped there for me to redeem my coupon for a free baguette, among other things. The first interesting place we called at, though, was an ancient Roman site at Bouchaud, which was up a very steep hill ("It's only about 50 metres," said the Swan Whisperer, encouragingly. Quadruple that, and you might be about right!) but worth seeing when you got there.

Also lovely views of the countryside roundabout. The visitor centre was closed, but we didn't know whether that was normal Monday behaviour or because of the public holiday. 

We had lunch there and then headed on across country - simply glorious views the whole way, and mostly lovely straight roads - to here, going slightly out of our way to visit a tourist trap called Angles-sur-l'Anglin; this had a rather spectacular ruined castle and was obviously a Thing to Do on a Bank Holiday, as it was rather crowded, so we couldn't stop. Then we drove down through La-Roche-Posay to this Super U out the other side. It will be convenient for the morning, is all I can really say about it! 

Early Summer Holiday, 8 June 2025

Cognac, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France

This morning slightly spoilt by the discovery that I had made a mistake booking the Camping-Car Park, and our stay both last night and tonight was due to end at 08:30. I thought at first I would have to pay an extra night's fees, but, in fact, one only has to pay €6, like you do when you just use their services. Anyway, I got in touch with them and enquired, and they kindly refunded me the €6, which was nice of them. But I do wish they wouldn't advertise their sites as having WiFi when they do not, so annoying!

Anyway, when we were ready we used the services and headed on. Our first port of call was a Super-U for bread and one or two other things - I ended up buying more cheese than I intended, but we didn't eat it for lunch as I bought leek tarts which we had with salad. We stopped to have this in a little village which rejoice in the name of Pissos! And on the same direction-board, but unfortunately underneath rather than above, a village called Ychoux! It occurred to me that if one did the latter, one might well do the former by mistake.... And the Swan Whisperer said it would go well with Cognac, where we are staying tonight.

As it is Pentecost, I might have found us an English church to join in with, or perhaps we might have headed north via Pau, but it is also our own church's anniversary, and we had a very old friend taking the service, so we decided to watch the YouTube stream instead, which we did before eating. 

When we arrived, we filled the WoMo up with water and then had a cup of tea, before heading out to see what was what. We decided that we were early enough to do a tour at a Cognac factory; we thought at first of going to Martell, which is just across the road from the aire, but the visitor centre was up a very steep hill, and anyway, it was nearly their closing time. So we went to Hennessey instead, just along the road.

It was fabulous! The last tour of the day was about to happen, so we joined that. First of all they take you on a short river cruise, mostly to show off the extent of their domain, but also the one remaining mediaeval city gate, and the Chateau (now a museum). The boat dropped you on the other side of the river, where we were shown a short film outlining the history of the company - the 8th generation of the family are still involved! Then we were shown a graphic of how the wine was made - it is a very acid grape to control the proof of the wine, which must be between 9 and 10.5°. This is because any stronger and it would interfere with the distillation process, which we learnt about next. The first and last litres of the distillate are recycled, I didn't quite gather why. The result is eau de vie, which we were allowed to smell, and it smelt gorgeous. This is then put into barrels to mature for a bare minimum of 2 years, and some of the rarest brandies are there for even a century or more! The barrels are kept in cellars known as "chais", not "caves", and there is some ritual involved when a worker places his first row of barrels, and they get their name inscribed on a barrel which has a bunch of flowers left on it and have to bring in cake.... 

The guide then went into considerable detail about the blending process, and I got a bit lost, but I gather the tasting committee meets every morning at 11:00 am and tastes a good hundred cognacs throughout the day (they do spit it out!) to get the finished product just right. And then we had our own tasting. One was the VS, matured between 2 and 6 years. It was horribly harsh, and would not be my drink of choice! Then we tried the VSOP, matured for a lot longer, which was much nicer on first taste, but still a bit harsh. We then tried it on the rocks, which was lovely, and finally a cocktail known as a Henny-Rita, which was like a margarita only with Cognac. The Swan Whisperer loved it, but I thought it a little too sweet for my taste.

Then, of course, but came the hard sell in the gift shop, but we were immune to such blandishments and came away to eat asparagus, pork chops with pasta and an apple-and-onion mixture, followed by home-made yoghurt with strawberries. The strawberries were a bit tasteless, not a patch on the French Garriguettes, which I'll buy some more of later in the week. Tomorrow is a public holiday, and I don't think most shops will be open. 

Early summer holiday, 7 June 2025

Arjuzanx, Morcenx-la-Nouvelle, Nouvelle-Aquitaine, France

There was a lovely sunrise when I woke up this morning - I don't think my photos quite do it justice! 

I don't quite know why, but we decided to go back to the huge Acampo in Tinxudan to do the necessary shopping. Frankly, I'd have preferred it had we stopped in the first out-of-town shopping centre we came across, which looked to have a far more manageable supermarket! The drive there was lovely, though, along a non-toll motorway which was really rather spectacular.

I dutifully shopped, although I couldn't find fresh orange juice anywhere, so bought a bag of oranges which we can squeeze ourselves instead - I rather prefer that, when plI can be bothered. Then it was lunch-time, and then we drove up a French motorway to this little place in the middle of nowhere. Actually, it's in a former lignite quarry, and there is a large lake with a beach.

It is a very pleasant aire, surrounded by woods, and the Swan Whisperer sat out reading while I tried to see if I could make my Kindle Fire behave (I couldn't. It will be replaced when I get home, by an Android tablet with its own keyboard and mouse! A birthday present from the Swan Whisperer!), and then did a short tai chi workout. It being Saturday, the SW has cooked supper, and I think I shall have an early-ish night as I am really rather sleepy! It is now too cold to sit out-of-doors - we had hoped to eat out, but it cooled rapidly as the sun went down, although it won't be dark for another hour or more. 

Early summer holiday, 6 June 2025

Pamplona, Navarre, Spain

So today was All About Pamplona. The Swan Whisperer went for a run first thing, only to reappear just as I was about to get into the shower, so I had to let him go first ("Then I can make breakfast!" he said). But it was not long before breakfast was on the table.

We set off about 10:00, not getting off to a good start as the SW misread the map and we went to the wrong roundabout to wait for the bus into town. And then when we were on the bus, it didn't stop at the stop we wanted, so we were "carried on to Crewe" and had to walk back, but it was actually a rather lovely walk across a bridge and through a park.

We didn't go in to the Plaza del Toros - I think it was closed, anyway - but had a quick look at the outside and then crossed the road to head into the Old Town.

The first thing we came to was the former palace gardens, now filled with booksellers round a large square. Then we found the local market hall, and had a look round there - and used the delightfully air-conditioned facilities - before walking up to the Cathedral. It cost five euros to go in, so we didn't, but by then I was needing a breather, so we went to the bar across the square and proved the truth of our daughter's comment that the only words you really need to know in any language are "two beers, please"!

 Once we - or rather I - got our second winds, we had a lovely potter round the old town, ending up at the statue of the bulls running,

after which we found a place to have lunch. This was a bit of a failure because although the food was delicious, there were no side-dishes, and they didn't bring me a spoon for the broth in my squid in its own ink,

and I didn't know what to ask for. The waiter did speak a little English, but not much. We only had - only wanted - a main course, and when we had had it (I couldn't finish mine, but didn't quite like to ask for a doggy bag), we walked back to the WoMo across a park and down a lift.

After a rest, I popped into the petrol station next door to see if they had any fizzy water, which they did, and fruit, which they didn' t, but did also get a baguette for supper, which will be bread, cheese and salad. Over 11k steps today - I hope I don't regret it tomorrow. 

Early Summer Holiday, 5 June 2025

Pamplona, Navarra, Spain

I fell asleep after my alarm went off this morning, which I hate doing as it makes me cross, sleepy and late for breakfast! Where we were parked up was on the corner of an enormous shopping mall, and I spent what was left of the morning wandering round a huge Alcampo, which is the Spanish version of Auchan. I didn't buy anything much - bread for lunch and one or two other things, including Himalayan pink salt that I haven't been able to get anywhere else. And a couple of very thin steaks for supper, but they were under €3 for the pack, so I pounced on them! And pretty much got my step count for the day in, going round that enormous superstore. 

We then headed off on the relatively short drive to Pamplona, which is in Navarre. I'm sure we have had Queens and so on from here - wasn't Berengaria a queen of Navarre, and I think there was a Joan of Navarre, too, but I'm not sure how she fits in! I Will have to look her up! It was a lovely scenic drive through the hills - in fact, the only photo I took today was on the drive. We stopped in a random aire for lunch, as it was getting late, and, of course, there was a much nicer one a few hundred metres down the road, but that's sod' law! 

Park 4 Night said that you should check when you arrived at this aire to make sure there was a space, as people tend to pay when they leave and this throws the count off. And a nice Dutch couple had just claimed the last space! The Swan Whisperer went to help them with checking in, and I looked up nearby places to park up, but just as we were about to go, the Dutch woman came running up and told us someone was just leaving! So we dashed in and grabbed the space, and are here, we think, for the next two nights, although we might move on tomorrow afternoon, we'll see. 

I was still tired, and also absorbed in the new Richard Coles' Daniel Clement mystery, plus it was hot, so we opened up everything that could be opened up and then after a cup of tea the Swan Whisperer went for a walk. He actually went for two walks and missed his route coming back for the second one, which nearly made him late for supper! 

I decided it was too hot to cook more than was strictly necessary, so instead of serving the steak with mushrooms, carrots and potatoes, as I had first planned, we had it with salad and bread and butter instead! And very good it was, too! Followed by some Basque Coffee-flavoured dessert (not "Flan", delicious though that is) and cherries which need eating! We picked out all the bad ones and, when we had eaten our fill, the good ones went in the fridge!