So we decided we would do the
Northern Belle Christmas special trip, as his Christmas present to me. Mine to him will be reviewed after Christmas! Anyway, this trip was to Durham and back, with brunch on the way there and a massive dinner on the way back. While in Durham, we had the opportunity to visit the various Christmas and everyday markets, and to attend a carol service a the Cathedral.
The train left at 08:18 from King's Cross, which meant that for the second time this week we had to get up at sparrowfart (the first time was to blag a free breakfast from Pret à Manger, to celebrate the opening of its Brixton branch) to get there in time. In fact, we had time to grab a coffee from the local Prets, before boarding the train. We hadn't booked a private table, but when we sat down, the Swan Whisperer said to the woman opposite, "I know you, don't I?" and she turned out to be an old friend from Ice Dance Club, who hasn't actually been to our club since the old rink closed, and has since had two hip replacements, so she isn't quite sure when or whether she will skate again. It was lovely to see her, and to meet her son, who had treated her to the trip.
The brunch, I have to say, was slightly spoilt by the fact that the scrambled egg with smoked salmon was rather cold - it was very nice, but would have been nicer had it been hotter! The coffee, too, was not nearly as nice as Prets, although later when I had another cup it had got nicer (since I no longer had the taste of Pret coffee in my mouth!). But that was the only disappointment. There was fresh fruit salad to start with, and various pastries to finish.
We arrived in Durham on time, and there were coaches arranged to drop us nearer the cathedral. We hadn't been to Durham before, and found it quite a long pull up the hill to get there, but once we were there, it was lovely. There was a craft market in a marquee, and the entry fee was covered by our train fares, so we went in, and, incidentally, found the perfect Christmas present for my father! That was the only thing we bought, though. Then it was time to go into the Cathedral for the "Carols for All" service, which was excellent, although some people complained about the quality of the community choirs who were singing. Nothing wrong with them, only a little uncertain, not helped by the organist having failed to read his service sheet.... An excellent talk by one of the Canons, and an offer of a free copy of St Luke's Gospel (I declined, on the grounds that after 25 years as a preacher, I really thought I might just be familiar with it!). We then had a look round the Cathedral (I'm sorry I didn't take photographs, but my phone's battery only just held out as it was, and I knew it wouldn't if I tried), and then it was time to queue for the farmers' Christmas market in the Cloisters, which was lovely. We didn't buy anything, although I'd have liked some of the cheese, as going home in a hot train.... not a plan! I also tasted - was it there, or in the craft market? - some non-alcoholic ginger wine, which would have been lovely but was far, far too sweet for my taste!
Anyway, after a long look round, we found some loos, and then wandered back through the Cathedral and out into the main drag, deciding to go the other side past the marquee, which was a mistake as it meant we missed the mulled wine stall! The main market didn't seem very Christmassy, and I'm not sure whether or not it was meant to be a Christmas market. There were some Christmas-market type stalls, but not all. And the indoor market is obviously there all year round. There was a super wool shop, and I was really rather tempted.... but resisted!
We then decided to wander back towards where the buses would pick us up, as it was getting dark and we were tired, but it was awkward as we knew that if we went into a café we would want something to eat, but we didn't want to eat as we knew we were getting a huge dinner. Ended up in a pub - a bit early to drink, but half a pint of what proved to be a
simply delicious lager for me, and of cider for the Swan Whisperer, and we were able to sit out, although the SW felt a bit cold. I was toasty warm - had been rather too hot all day!
So then we got back on to the coach and had to wait awhile at the station for our train. The waiting area was all very well, but the automatic doors didn't shut properly, and opened every time a car moved they would open, so the poor Swan Whisperer got very cold indeed, and even I was glad to move and get on the train.
Going home, I got to sit by the window - big deal, as there was nothing to see by then - and we were heading forwards, which I do marginally prefer. The meal was lovely - first there was a glass of champagne and nibbles, and then the starter, which was a trio of fish. I chose not to have that, as really it didn't sound very nice, so I got offered, and accepted, ham hock terrine, which was lovely. Then there was celeriac soup, but I declined that, too, and, having tasted the Swan Whisperer's, was rather glad I had as it didn't taste of anything much at all except a vague hint of cooked celery. The main course was a 3-bird roast with a bit of partridge on the top (I wouldn't have known that was what it was, to be honest!), brussels sprout purée, red cabbage, roast parsnip and fondant potato. It was very good, but I was so sleepy by then (I had fallen asleep between courses) that I didn't enjoy it as much as I would have done had I been wide awake. Then there was a cheeseboard, and then pudding - an individual Christmas pudding with brandy custard, which was OK, but not the nicest (I gave half of mine to the SW), but also a bit of chocolate mousse cake, which was lush, and a scoop of cherry sorbet, ditto! Then tea or coffee, if you wanted it, which I didn't, and a mince pie (I gave mine to the SW). Our fare apparently included £24 worth of drinks, so we each ordered a glass of wine - red for him, rosé for me - some fizzy water and a fruit drink for him. This was possibly a mistake, as we then didn't have a bill at the end, and those who did were taking the opportunity to tip the stewards quite heavily.
By the time all this had happened, we were nearly at King's Cross, and after a lovely day, I was very tired indeed! We were home just before 10:45 pm, after a lovely and memorable day!
