From Saleilles, 14 October 2021

A much better day today.  We were not moved on during the night, nor in the morning, either! It was a very cold night and there was a sharp frost, I had to pull my rug over me and a hot-water bottle at my feet!  Bt the heating is incredibly efficient in the bedroom and bathroom area, so it soon warmed up this morning. 

The Swan Whisperer went and bought croissants from the local boulangerie, and after breakfast we drove the few minutes to the daytime motorhome park at the Panoramic du Puy de Dome. 

This is a little train that takes you up the Puy de Dome, almost to the top, and you can walk up from there. 

It was seriously lovely - wonderful views, my photos can't possibly do it justice. 

But bitterly cold; the top of the Dome is 1,450 above sea level and een at the bottom railway station it's over 900 metres. 

Sadly, my silly lungs went back on me as I tried to go up the steps to the top, and apart from being out of breath I started to feel really sick, so stopped 3/4 of the way to the top and went back down, leaving the SW to go the rest of the way.  When he got down, we wandered around a bit, but there was a silly amount of time before the next train down - not enough time to get a coffee, but too much to just go and sit on the platform.

But eventually it was time to get the train back down the mountain, by which time I was feeling a lot better, but still very aware that I'd been badly out of breath, and we had a coffee before we went back to the motor home.

We drove about 20 km to a supermarket en route, which was the anchor for an enormous shopping mall.  I did a small shopping, and then we had lunch before heading up the motorway to this little town called Mehun-sur-Yèvre (I slept all the way) where we are parked up by a disused canal, which is absolutely lovely,

and the trees are suddenly all autumnal.  The SW has gone for a walk (he is just on his way back, I can see him) and I hope to do the same in the morning. 

From Saleilles, 13 October 2021

This has been a seriously frustrating day!  It started off all right, with getting up and using the services, etc.  It was very cold overnight, and when the heating came on in the morning it suddenly stopped, which meant the gas had run out, so the Swan Whisperer had to change the cylinder  before we could have any hot water.  But not really a problem.  So after breakfast we went into the village to go the Super U where cylinders could be exchanged, which the SW did while I had been going to do a shopping, but the place absolutely stank, as though something had died in there.  I really wasn't about to buy any food in there, so just got water, some cleaner for the sink, which is very stained, and some citric acid, which I know my mother wants for making lemonade, and more frustration, it's not letting me link!  

So far, so not very good, but then we thought of things we might like to do and to see in the area.  Our first idea was the "Vélotrain" in St-Eulalie-de-Cernon, but the map showed that there was no motorhome access there, so that was a bust.  Then we thought we would look at one of the cheese factories, but the ones we saw on the roundabout, easily accessible, did not keep their visitor centres there, so we had to come away.  We did find a boulangerie which did us some very nice sandwiches for lunch, which we ended up eating in the car park of an E Leclerc just outside Millau - we had, by that stage, driven under the eponymous viaduct, as spectacular as ever.  

We hoped, then, to use the little tourist train which runs around Millau, but the address given us on Google Maps was totally wrong, and we ended up in a residential/light industrial area.  

By this time it was getting on, so we thought we would make tracks to where we had hoped to spend the night.  It is a lovely drive up the A75.  We stopped at the Garabit service area to see the eponymous railway bridge which is beautiful,

but it was a lot further from Millau than either of us remembered - about 100 km further north.  So a good place to have a cup of tea and to look at the information panels about the construction of the bridge.  

Then we drove on, hoping to find the France Passion farm where we had planned to spend the night, but when we got there, we think we found the right place, but no sign of any France Passion badges, and nobody was around.  So we came away and tried and tried to find other places to spend the night, but ended up driving round and round the same tiny roads as though we had got into an infinite loop.  We did get out in the end, but the place Park4Night said was nice firmly said no camping between 10:00 pm and 07:00.  Fortunately there is a large car-park across the road for the tourist centre, and we have parked up; I just hope it will be okay and they won't try to move us on at 2:00 am!  We hope not!

And the the fridge decided to play silly buggers, like it did last July, but I noticed on the inside of the door that it said how to reset it, so I did and it behaved itself again.  So that's all right.  But oh, what a frustrating day!  I have had a large whisky, which has helped.  

From Saleilles, 12 October 2021

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, as he always does at Mas Alart, reappearing just as I was getting up.  So I got breakfast, for once while he got civilised, and after saying goodbye we headed off. 

First port of call was Lidl in Saleilles, which is new since we were last here in March 2018.  It was rather awkward to get into because the obvious roundabout was closed due to road works, so we had to go round the houses, but we got there in the end and I was able to use my Lidl Plus card, which pleased me, and got 25% off some ham. 

Then it was time to leave the Pyrenees.  Today we went on the motorway all the way, as the SW said he was sick of roundabouts.  And anyway, much of it was the A75, which is both free and spectacular. 

We stopped in a random aire for lunch which had a regional products area  - in hindsight, I should have bought some Roquefort at the regional products shop there, as by the time we got to Roquefort itself, I was exhausted and a bit wheezy for some reason.  The SW went on an explore and we decided, on balance, not to buy any this time.  We do both like it, but you can even get it in Lidl at home!

By this time we had gone past our planned stopping-place at Sainte-Eulalie-en-Cernon, so we decided not to retrace our steps but to go a little further to Saint-Affrique, where we knew there was a Camping-Car Park aire, in a former campsite, so we are installed here with electricity and full services.  The SW went for an explore and said it is a very pedestrian-unfriendly town, so we may end up taking the van to Super U in the morning, should we decide we need shopping done.  I am not sure that we will, though.  We shall see. 

At Saleilles, 11 October 2021

I had planned, this morning, to get up while the Swan Whisperer was having his run, and go to the nearby bakery for croissants.  Only he completely foiled me by not going for a run, and announced that "he was getting up now".  So I had to send him for croissants, instead. 

We left Limoux at about 10:00 a.m., having told the satnav to take us across country.  We were so very glad we did - it was a really, really lovely drive!  The roads were (mostly) excellent, and very scenic.  We did stop on the outskirts of Limoux for diesel and shopping, and then again for a bit because we could, but when we began to think of stopping somewhere for lunch, there was a lovely picnic area just outside Maury. 

The "train rouge" ran alongside the car park, and we were rather startled to see a train as we thought they did not run on Mondays. 

This, of course, reminded me of "Le train jaune" which runs up to La Carol-Latour, but, alas, it is out of service this month and I really don't fancy a replacement bus service!  Maybe next time.

We were going to be far too early at Mas Alart - it sells lovely wine, and is beautifully remote, but there is nothing to do when you get there except buy wine!  So we bypassed it and went to the Mediterranean where we watched - I don't quite know what you would call them; they were not conventional kite-surfers (there were some of those), and not conventional sailboarders, either (there was at least one of those, too), but standing on boards that had a sort of keel underneath that they rose up on to cut through the water, and carrying sails that had two halves, to enable them to steer.  The idea seems to be to do jumps and so on, but only one of the people we watched tried, and not very successfully. 

So we went back to the van and had a cup of tea, and then drove to Mas Alart - which is packed out.  Always before when we have been here, we have either been the only van, or at most one other, but there are five or six others here tonight.  We have bought a lot of their delicious rosé, and some of their white, although right now I'm drinking white from Juigné-sur-Loire. 

Meanwhile the SW's results from Saturday are in, and he had a time of 23'16", but not, alas, first in his age grade.  And I had a phone call from King's College Hospital confirming that I do not have cancer, but must have another colonoscopy in three  years time.  So all good stuff..... 

To Saleilles, 10 October 2021

This morning we got up bedtimes and when I had showered and dressed, I went to the boulangerie across the road to buy a croissant for me and a pain au chocolate for the Swan Whisperer which we enjoyed after our boiled eggs. 

Then it was time to go back into Pau, to go to church.  They are still at the stage of asking you to reserve seats if you wish to attend public worship, so I had emailed them the previous day to do so.  We were warmly welcomed, and I think both of us enjoyed the service.  However, there was one awkward moment during the giving of Communion (Bread only, as is usual nowadays).  The chancel had been closed off by the rood screen (although there was a small door left open by the organ) and the actual organ console moved to the middle. 

The organist and the soloist were behind the screen, and when it came to receiving, they both pushed their hands through the railing, like beggars - appropriate, I suppose, but it made both the SW and me laugh. 

They can't, of course, serve coffee after church just now, so we set off fairly soon for what is, I think, the 2nd-longest drive of the holiday, to a town called Limoux.  We went via motorway, but it was a fairly scenic one, and every now and then we caught glimpses of the Pyrenees on the horizon!  We stopped fairly soon for coffee, hoping to be able to empty the grey, but he W, who went to investigate, found that the drain was blocked and unusable.  So we went on, and half an hour later stopped for lunch in a rest area, and then we did not stop again until we got here.  

Here is a very nice little aire, with full services (which we have used) and a piece of ground in front of the Aube

where either boules or pétanque, I don't know the difference, was being played. 

The SW went for a walk and I had planned to go on a short one to reconnoitre the local boulangerie, but somehow that didn't happen.  So I flopped on the bed and reread "Emergency in the Pyrenees" (Well, I had to, didn't I? ) until it was time to get supper.  Which was cod loin with (packet) lemon butter sauce, mashed potato, cabbage and leeks, so we drank some of the white wine we bought from Juigné-sur-Loire, and very good it was, too!  Saleilles tomorrow!

To Saleilles, 9 October 2021

Well, we are now in the Pyrenees, but won't arrive in Saleilles for another two days.  But to begin at the beginning:

We were parked up for the night at a little park near Cubzenais so that the Swan Whisperer could do a parkrun. 

This duly happened - we don't have an actual time as something went wrong with the official time-keeping, but his Strava says it was a little oer 23 minutes, and he came in 3rd.   As is so often the case here, many of the runners were British, including one couple who said they had spent the night in a very nice aire near a chateau, with all amenities laid on!  I had half thought of walking a lap, but when push came to shove I wasn't up for it, so showered, dressed and had my own breakfast while he was out. 

By the time he came back, showered and had breakfast, etc, time was getting on.  First port of call was a Super U where he got diesel and I did a shopping, and then on to the motorway where one of the Aires advertised that it had motorhome services so we went there to empty the grey and the loo.  We didn't take on any water, though, as we have plenty for tonight and tomorrow. 

After that, I don't know what the Satnav thought it was playing at, but it took us off the motorway and all round the rocade around Bordeax, horrible traffic jams all the way!  We had thought we would stay on the motorway all the way!  Anyway, we eventually did arrive on the motorway to Pau which was very quiet.  We stopped twice, once for lunch and once for the SW to make himself some coffee.  I still do not know why coffee wakes him up in the afternoon, but doesn't keep him awake at night. 

When we arrived in Pau, we discovered that the one and only motorhome aire was absolutely jam-packed solid with cars (and one or two motorhomes), so we had to come away.  We tried another place recommended by Park4Night, but it wasn't obvious where to go.  Eventually, we found this rather nice place in a suburb of Pau called Gan, which is much nicer than the original place! 

I think you are supposed to have a wine tasting, but we didn't.  Anyway, only about half an hour from the centre of Pau.  Abd best of all, there is a bakery just across the road which will be open tomorrow so we can have croissants for breakfast!  First time this holiday. 

To Saleilles, 8 October 2021

We did not hurry this morning, and it was not far off noon before we got away, having used the services and made sure we had plenty of water, etc, as we will be without for the next two nights.

Our drive today was enlivened by the Swan Whisperer's desire to see the sea (why, when he could take a train to Brighton any day at home, I do not know), so after calling in at a Carrefour Market (why was my Carrefour card valid, but not my coupon? ) to shop, we drove to Châtelaillon Plage where there was a very useful camping-car park that charged during July and August, but not the rest of the year.  So we parked up there and had lunch, and then went for a wander down to the beach and back. 

French seaside resorts give off a very different vibe to British ones, but, like them, are unmistakable.  This one would have been nicer had the tide been in, but it was as out as it could be, although I think it had started coming in by the time we left. 

Then it was time to set off again and once we got past Saintes we decided to remove the Satnav's prohibition on toll roads and came down the motorway the rest of the way to Cubnezais, which we are visiting because there is a parkrun here tomorrow morning.  The Swan Whisperer has walked the course (it is 3 and a bit laps, but he only did one lap) and soon I shall get supper.