70th birthday trip, Wednesday 14 June; travel day 4/15.

Today was my 70th birthday. Many thanks, by the way, to all who took a moment to wish me a happy day. I appreciate it, although Facebook doesn't make it easy to see all the greetings!

The day started very well. We didn't get up early, but when we did get up, we went out for a very good breakfast at a nearby café. Then we checked out of the hostel and put our luggage in the facilities there before catching a bus down to Gammel Strand where we joined a canal boat tour, which was really fabulous, apart from the slightly irritating courier (but then they all are). However, she was knowledgeable and spoke excellent English, and we both thoroughly enjoyed the trip. We walked back, as our 24-hour tickets had expired. 

Our train was due to leave at 3, so we reclaimed our luggage and sat in the lounge of the hostel for a bit, but then decided to go and see whether the 1st class lounge at the station would give us any free food. Only fruit, but a seriously delicious peach!  So I went and bought us a couple of sandwiches, but of course the Swan Whisperer said he had had a large breakfast (true!) and wasn't hungry, thus neatly making me feel guilty for wanting something to eat. So I  only had half a sandwich then, rather cross because I knew that if we waited to eat until we were on the train, the SW would then not want any dinner - and I would. However, it was moot, as the train, of course, was an hour late. Remind me never, ever to travel in Scandinavia by train again! To be fair, the local S-bahn trains, which our inter-rail passes also covered, were frequent and on time.

Then they said that some of the coaches were at Odense and we should take the next train and change there. Couldn't find first class on that train, but we did get seats in the end. Of course, when we got to Odense, no sign of any coaches, but eventually the train from Copenhagen pulled in, and then four more coaches came to join it from the other direction. Of course, the coach numbers bore no resemblance to those on which we had been booked, but we found two seats in first class and eventually arrived in Hamburg only an hour late. No refreshment car, of course, that would have been too much to ask, although the guard did bring bottles of water and a few sweets. 

But oh dear, the hotel is a disaster! The room is so tiny there is barely room for the bed, even the bathroom is bigger, and I have had to sleep on the wrong side as there is no night table or anything on the inside. No kettle or anything (glad I bought ours), no breakfast (we can get that in the station), and, worst of all, we had to walk up the flights of stairs. The concierge did try to help us with our cases, but she was breathing nearly as badly as I was! 

There was no way I was going to go down those stairs and back up, so the SW went out and got us currywurst and chips, which were very nice (and by then it was nearly 10, so even the SW admitted to being hungry!). Of course, they only gave us one key card, which he had to take to get in the front door, so I had to sit in the dark until he got back (as in so many hotels, you need to put the key card in a slot before the electricity will work), so I had a shower. But I am very glad we don't have to stay in this flea-pit longer than overnight!

70th birthday trip, Tuesday 13 June.

We hadn't drawn the curtains last night - I seldom do unless we are overlooked - but this was a mistake as the sun shone right into my eyes when it was still too early to wake up, so I had to rectify that!

The Swan Whisperer went for a run, of course, as the lakes behind the hostel - I think the remnants of a moat - seem almost as if they were designed for that! 

The hostel doesn't include breakfast and, although you can buy it, the options are all sweet, and I do hate an all-sweet breakfast. So we made our own, boiling eggs in my little kettle and finishing the bread and cream cheese we had bought in Oslo. And the last two not-very-nice yoghurts. Then I went downstairs and bought a coffee, which was far too weak, and some orange juice, which says it's organic but it's made from concentrate, so I don't see how it can be. Anyway, there is plenty left.

Then we went out. We walked to Strøget, which is the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe - and not all Euro-high-street, although  some familiar chains. I did like the Royal Copenhagen pottery building.

Finally we found ourselves at the Gammel Strand metro station (it's called metro here), by a statue commemorating the fishwives who used to hold a market here until the 1950s.

We took a train out to Østerport, and then walked to see the Little Mermaid (well, one couldn't not!). After which, we caught a riverbus down to Knippelsbro, on the other side of the harbour. There wasn't much to see, so we found a fish restaurant that did a not-very-nice fish burger but some really nice chips.

After which we discovered that there was a bus that would take us back to the hostel, so we caught it, and had a rest while our phones charged. Then the SW went out for another walk, and after that we bought a sandwich for supper in the hostel café (under-seasoned!). 

And so ends my 7th decade! 

70th birthday trip, Monday 12 June; travel day 3/15

We were sad to say goodbye to our studio apartment this morning - it was very comfortable and had everything one could possibly want. I recommend it if you are going to Oslo!

We walked down to where we thought we could get a bus to the station, but first got on one going in the wrong direction, and then discovered that the one we thought went to the station, didn't! But it wasn't far away, and by the time we had looked to see where we could get a bus or tram to the station. It wasn't worth it! So we walked.

We were early for the train we had planned to catch, and ended up getting the one before.  Swedish trains seem as bad as British or German ones, though, as quite suddenly when we got to Malmo they said that our end of the train wasn't going anywhere and we must move up. Of course we couldn't find first class, although there was one, and second class was absolutely rammed! I did get a seat, though, but the SW didn't.

Then they said the train wasn't stopping at Copenhagen airport, so those who wanted to go there had to get out at the next stop and go back. The train did empty at that point, and the SW could come and sit down, but of course we were nearly there.

The hostel isn't far from the station and we walked there. They have put is in a 6-bedded dormitory, but on our own. Quite nice actually.

We made a cup of tea - the first time I have had to dig out my own travel kettle and mugs - and then headed on out, primarily for a walk, but also to try to buy a screwdriver. The SW's suitcase, which I bought to take on our last Inter-rail trip in 2013, has 4 wheels. but two of them had broken - needless to say, in opposite corners. He reckoned that he might perhaps be able to change them round, and has done so although he is not too sure how well this will hold. There is a luggage shop near the station, though, so if necessary we can get a new one on Wednesday.

The place where we bought the screwdriver, just round the corner from the hostel, as it turns out, was a most extraordinary shop. We thought at first it was  basically a Halfords, but it not only sold that sort of thing, but a very random selection of stuff from baby necessities, laundry detergent and knitting wool! And lots of other stuff, including tools!

We went back to the hostel and the SW worked on the case, and then it was supper time so went out to a local steakhouse which we thought looked nice. And it was. I had a steak and chips, plus a side salad, and the SW had salmon with new potatoes and shared my salad, and we both had beer.

Then pudding, which was basically soft ice-cream, his with a chocolate lava cake and mine on a waffle with chocolate sauce and nuts. And so back to the hostel for the night! 

70th birthday trip, Sunday 11 June

I woke up early, and decided to put on my dressing-gown and slippers and take a load of laundry downstairs to the facilities provided, which are not only free to use but they also have an iron and ironing-board, should you wish to use that.  And detergent capsules are there to be used! 

Unfortunately, the door lock chimes very loudly when you open it, so I woke the Swan Whisperer, which I had had no idea of doing! Anyway, I made tea and then washed and dressed to go and put the washing in the dryer before anybody else wanted it. Someone had put their stuff in to dry overnight, but it was dry so I took it out and folded it, although the Swan Whisperer, who went down to get ours when the drying cycle had finished, said it was still there!

There is an Anglican church here, which I learnt was built in the last century to cater for seamen, mostly Scots (so why Anglican rather than Presbyterian?).

We decided to attend worship there, and, as it was a lovely day, we walked - about 20 minutes. Sadly, the minister was ill, so the service was taken by a worship leader and had to be Morning Prayer rather than the Communion we had hoped for. The minister had emailed her sermon to the worship leader, who read it on her behalf, rather well, I thought.

We were not the only people "passing through" Gothenburg at the service, and it was good to chat to an American couple over a cup of tea afterwards. Then we went on to explore the waterfront,

and found a café in which to eat fish and chips, and then took various buses and trams to see where they went - I fell asleep on the final tram and missed the city centre, to my annoyance!

After a cup of tea the Swan Whisperer went out to explore on his own, and got some sandwich stuff in Lidl for tonight and tomorrow. He is now back and relaxing, and I have pretty much repacked my stuff. 

70th birthday trip, Saturday 10 June. Not travel day 3/15!

The hotel breakfast was as delicious as ever, and we firmly made sandwiches to take with us on the coach. I know one isn't supposed to, but since at least half the stuff was far more sandwich filling stuff than breakfast stuff, I expect they are used to it. The Swan Whisperer put a cherry tomato into his, which later exploded when he bit into it and went all over me! But that was later. After breakfast, we went back to the room and packed up, and were in good time to check out before the 11:00 am deadline. 

The Swan Whisperer was marvellous at carrying and/or pulling our heavy suitcases all down the long slopes and stairs to the T-bane station. We changed at Nationaltheatret to a NY local line, which we should probably have marked on our pass, but the SW said firmly that our local tickets would count, and anyway, nobody wanted to see them, so that was all right. 

We parked ourselves in the station and I went for a walk round and took some photos, and explored the various shops, etc

(there was a l'Occitane en Provence, but I resisted temptation!). We then wandered through to the bus station and found where the coach would go from; I bought some drinking-water as I was almost out. 

We thought the Swan Whisperer had booked us seats right at the front of the coach but, alas, they were right at the back, way beyond the back wheels. Fortunately the suspension was good and so was the road quality, so we got away with it. We ate our sandwiches, mopped off the tomato explosion, and then I went to sleep for a bit. When I woke up, I I did some knitting, wishing all the time that I could read or watch videos, and stand up and move about a bit. 

However, we reached Gothenburg at long last, and after visiting the facilities (10 SEK, but you paid by contactless), we bought day-tickets (these are valid for 24 hours from the time of purchase) and caught a local bus to what was probably not the nearest stop, but we are not sure. We finally found our apartment building, and got in with no problems. It is a lovely little studio with all you could want in the way of fittings, etc. 

After relaxing with a cup of tea, we went out in search of a supermarket, and did a shopping for essentials - bread, milk, etc, and a ready-meal for supper which was potatoes in some kind of cheese sauce. Would have been nicer with a green veg or some salad, but you can't have everything. 

There is a washing machine and tumble dryer in the basement, so we will do all that tomorrow! And, of course, explore the town and perhaps attend public worship at the local English church. 

70th birthday trip, Friday 9 June

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and came back to a hotel breakfast that was even more delicious and copious than the one In Stockholm! I am going to put on an awful lot of fat this holiday, I can see it coming. 

After breakfast, we did a tidy-up and sort-out, and then went into town. Unfortunately, while the hotel location has the most superb views over Oslo, the road down to the nearest T-bane (metro) station is very, very steeply downhill, and I was far too worried about how on earth I was going to get back up again to really enjoy seeing Oslo. So in the end the SW abandoned me to sit outside a café and drink strawberry lemonade while he did a brief explore. I spent the entire time trying to fill in a compensation claim to Inter-rail for the bus fare tomorrow. I don't know whether they will agree. However, SR are going to compensate me for the delay on Tuesday, so that's something. 

Anyway, we bought some rolls in the café and then headed back to the T-bane. I suggested we go right to the end of the line to eat them, and then come back down to the T-bane stop before ours, which might be more downhill and less steep. So we did.

The end of the line was near the Rose Castle, which apparently memorialises the German occupation during WWII. We didn't go in, but did treat ourselves to an ice at the café there. Unfortunately, what the Swan Whisperer (and I) thought was dark chocolate turned out to be licorice, but he ate it anyway and I let him have a bite of my luscious strawberry lolly to take the taste away.

We then got the T-bane down to the stop before the nearest one, which was not much further and the path a lot easier. When we got to the hotel, the path led alongside the underground car park, so we nipped in there and used the lift straight into the hotel lobby! 

After which, as if he had not had enough exercise for one day, the SW decided to go for a hike by himself, and I had a bit of a nap. When he came back and had had another shower, we had dinner in the hotel restaurant. He had a burger and beer, and I had cod in some sort of luscious sauce with rosé wine, and very good it was, too!

Then we wandered out on the terrace for awhile, taking photos of the superb view over Oslo, and of a robot lawn-mower, and so, as Pepys says, to bed! Photos on Facebook, as per usual. 

70th birthday trip, Thursday 8 June. Travel day 2/15

We got up fairly early - well, when it is light by 04:00 it's hard not to! Plus we wanted to catch the first tourist bus of the day, which left at 10. Hotel breakfast was delicious and copious, although the bacon made me thirsty! But quite the nicest melon I've ever tasted!

The city tour was great, and showed you where everything was, although it would have been nice to have had time to get off and look around. Difficult to take photos from a bus. Also had I thought, I would have taken a box for my hearing-aids so I could have listened to the commentary. If we take another tour bus anywhere, I will try to remember to do that.

A lovely walk back to the hotel from the final stop, and then we checked out and sat in the lobby (very comfortable) with a cup of coffee (complimentary) and relaxed. We bought a couple of filled rolls and some chocolate for lunch and then went to the station to await our train.

Not desperately comfortable, and a very long, but pleasantly scenic, journey to Oslo.

Much of it single-track, which surprised us, between two major European capitals. But there are no trains this Saturday - don't know whether strike or track work - so we have had to buy coach tickets, and I dislike coach travel! I am hoping Eurail will refund us the ticket costs - am trying to sort that out. Also, no idea whether SJ will refund the cost of our reservations; they should, but I am not holding my breath. No customer service at the stations of course. This holiday is a total nightmare so far, but then, come to think of it so was our last Inter-rail tour the first few days, and then it was delightful.

Anyway, I had ordered us a meal on the train - nothing grand, just a wrap with meatballs and potatoes, but it was very good! Tea, coffee, water, fruit and chocolate were all complimentary for 1st-class passengers, which was nice. I dozed in front of some YouTube videos for the first hour or so, and then read and watched the world go by.

I made a mistake and booked a hotel miles out of the centre, so we had to take a taxi which was horrendously expensive, and we'll have to take one back to the bus station on Saturday. But it is a very nice hotel, although the loo wouldn't stop flushing in the first room they gave us, so they moved us into a rather nicer one! Not enough pillows, though - I'll have to ask for an extra one in the morning. Meanwhile I have my inflatable one. The hotel is up a massive hill, and there is a fabulous view, which I shall take photos of in the morning - the light was fading rather by the time we were settled tonight.