Christmas Markets, 11 December 2023

Today was a day of two halves. The Swan Whisperer went for a run first thing, but took really rather longer than I'd hoped, so we were later setting off than I'd wanted.

Then we were just about to set off when  realised I couldn't find my motorhome keys anywhere, and we spent what felt like an hour but in reality was probably only about 10 minutes looking for them. I finally found them where I thought I'd looked three times already! 

We finally set off for Kehl, in Germany, which is just at the end of the tram line. Ciymapper does work here, but has its blind spots, and we hadn't realised that the quickest way to go would be to take the bus to Étoile Bourse and then change there for the tram. As it was, we took the bus to Montagne Verte, then two trams. And the second tram turfed us all off before the end of the route as someone had been taken ill and they were waiting for the emergency services, but it set off again very quickly, leaving its passengers standing indignantly on the platform! 

However, we did get there in the end! 

We walked down the main shopping drag, calling in at DM and Muller, only I couldn't spend as long as I liked as the SW does so hate shopping, poor man. And Muller didn't have any 4711 shower gel. I know one can get it in the UK, but it's twice the price! Oh well, just have to keep my rapidly-decreasing stash for Sundays! 

Then we went to Edeka and I did some shopping, although I couldn't get the herb blend I wanted. And it was incredibly hot in there, so I didn't even look for mulled wine (which we have loads of at home, anyway) or that lovely elderflower iced tea I like. I had left the SW having coffee, and had an Apfelshorle when I joined him. 

We went back to the motor home in time for a late lunch and a long nap, and then finally pulled ourselves together and headed back into town, although I have a feeling we were both too tired to really enjoy it. We walked back down through the Kléber market to the one outside the Cathedral, and after looking round we treated ourselves to tartes flambées and a drink, followed by pudding. Then we walked back to Étoile Bourse and caught the bus back to the campsite, and just too late to order bread for the morning. Oh well! 

And I am not long for my bed, I can tell you! Probably won't do any walking tomorrow, only a bit of shopping. 

Christmas Markets, 10 December 2023

Strasbourg, Alsace.

It was a very wet and windy night, and the Swan Whisperer decided not to go for a run this morning. Indeed, had we been at home, it was the kind of day that I would have eaten my breakfast before washing and dressing (except not, as it's Sunday and I would probably have been preaching, so wouldn't have been able to lounge around in night clothes all morning!).

We didn't have to leave the campsite until noon, so the SW did go for a bit of a walk; I stayed in and did puzzles and knitted. We did try to use the services before we left, but there was no water, and although I think we could have got a token from reception, we decided to leave it until we arrived here in Strasbourg. We did empty the grey, though. 

The SW had wanted to park up by a lake about halfway to Strasbourg, but in fact, it it didn't really allow cars to go to its shores, never mind motor homes. So we parked up in a nearby supermarket car park, fully expecting it to be empty as French supermarkets close at noon on Sundays, if they open at all. But it seems to have stayed open - I believe they are allowed to be open all day on a few Sundays a year, most of which they save up for the Sundays in Advent. Not that we needed anything, so I didn't go shopping. After we had listened to our church service - not all of it audible, I have to say - we had lunch and then the SW went for a short walk down to the lake. 

Then we drove to this camp in Strasbourg, checked in and used the services, and then found our designated site. After a cup of tea, during which we researched public transport options (Citymapper works here, so useful!), and what to do about tickets. There was an app to download for them, and after some discussion, we each bought a 3-day travelcard. We are only here for two days, but we may want to do a last dash in to Strasbourg on Tuesday morning, you never know! 

It is very easy to get into the town centre; there is a bus stop about 400 metres away (and, of course, Citymapper could tell us how long we would have to wait), and then you change on to a tram one stop up the road. 

It was not raining, and was fairly mild. We had a lovely walk round the Broglie market - the oldest, and, I believe, the first in Europe - which was, of course, very crowded. We then walked down to Kleber, and the giant Christmas tree

there. That was even more crowded, and we decided that maybe it, and the market round the Cathedral, would be best kept until tomorrow when it will, hopefully, be less crowded. 

We then walked down to Petite France, which the Swan Whisperer likes, and saw the illuminations there.

By this time, I had rather had enough, so we walked up to the tram stop, and one came along in a very few minutes. We should probably have walked back to the campsite rather than waiting 10 minutes for a bus, but it was worth it, especially as we got a bit lost trying to find the WoMo! 

But we found it in the end, and settled down to choucroute for supper, and watching Countryfile on my tablet. 

Christmas Markets, 9 December 2023

Obernai, Alsace 

As we were in no rush this morning, the Swan Whisperer went and bought croissants and a baguette before breakfast, and after it he went for a long walk. Which he didn't enjoy as much as the earlier one he had done, as there was a shooting-party going on, with guns stationed all down the path he wanted to go down, so he had to go to another chateau instead, which he said wasn't so nice.

Once he was back, we used he services and then headed on to a very nice Super U which not only had the supermarket and "Drive" (Click and Collect), but also dedicated motorhome parking, services and launderette, and the petrol station sold gas, which was perfect as we ran out over lunch! So the SW was able to walk over there with the empty cube and return with a full one.

But when we arrived at the campsite, we discovered, to our horror, that I had accidentally booked us in for tomorrow, not tonight! But the extremely nice woman in reception said not to worry, she would fit us in somehow, and to be sure to double-check our booking for Strasbourg as she knew it was full! I did double check, and it's fine! 

We parked up and had a cup of tea, and then went to avail ourselves of the free shuttle into the Christmas markets there. Which were okay - rather smaller than I was expecting, but all the usual things. And the local restaurants were all open and doing a roaring trade, even though it was only about 5:00 pm. We treated ourselves to a mulled wine from a stall, and had a good walk round, getting slightly lost on the way back. 

However, we  found the church that was our landmark, and went in there to see the advertised exhibition of Christmas cribs, to find that we had also come in for the end of a free concert by a local choir. They included a song called "Christmas in Jerusalem", which the choir mistress said had been chosen before 7 October, but felt it was appropriate to include it as it was about three people from different religious traditions celebrating together in joy and peace.  After which, we looked at the cribs before getting the free shuttle back to the campsite. 

Strasbourg tomorrow, for two nights, and then we start for home. 

Christmas Markets, 8 December 2023

Andlau, Alsace

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and then went to get croissants for breakfast.

We then spent the morning reading, etc - I may have fallen asleep at some stage and had a vivid dream! But at about 12:15 we got ready to explore this little town. 

Well! For somewhere we had never heard of, and which we only went to because we were desperate to find somewhere to spend two nights, Andlau is a simply lovely place and deserves to be more widely known! We had a lovely walk round it, stopping to take lots of photos of the lovely old houses,

and then we had lunch in a restaurant called Le Boeuf Rouge. We were lucky to get a seat there, actually. Sadly, although they advertised flammekuechen, they only serve them in the evenings, so we had galette de pommes de terre with salad and Munster cheese, including a huge slab of it which I wrapped up in my napkin to take home. Then the SW had Black Forest Gateau and a coffee, and I had a "Café Gourmand", which was lovely, but really rather greedy! 

After this, we went across the square to the local museum, called La Seigneurie, which was superb value for €5 each. Three floors of exhibition space about the local area, including a large room devoted to religious observance, and lots of explanations about the differences between Protestant, Catholic and Jewish worship. Also information about the ruling family, the d'Andlaus, who had lived in the Seigneurie when it was a residence. It was very interesting, and I was sorry that we were the only two visitors. 

Then back to the WoMo, where we have spent the rest of the day. We did not want much in the way of supper! 

Christmas Markets, 7 December 2023

We were very comfortable, if cold, spending the night in the car park at Sélestat. Of course, there was no electricity, so we had to rather ration the heating.

We thought we had better go to Ribeauvillé as soon as possible, to try to get a space in the aire there, but we stopped at Lidl en route to see if they sold mulled wine (of course they didn't - can you really see the French selling it in bottles?), and by the time we got to Ribeauvillé, it was too late, too late... And by the time we realised it was going to be too late, there was a long queue of hopeful motorhome waiting to try to get in!

So I said sod this for a game of soldiers, and we looked up Camping-Car parks, which have the merit of telling you how many spaces they have available! The nearest one was at Dambach-la-Ville, but although it was very nice and there was space, it was rather in the middle of nowhere. This one, at Andlau, is much nearer the centre of the village. 

I was fairly tired today, so didn't go out except for walking round Lidl, but this is Swan Whisperer territory par excellence, and he went for a long, healthy walk this afternoon which he thoroughly enjoyed, while I stayed in and read and did puzzles and so on. 

When he came in, we had a cup of tea, and may have dozed off for a bit. Then it was time to get supper, and I cooked a chicken, leek and mushroom casserole, which I served with mashed potatoes and carrots and Brussels sprouts. Followed by yoghurt. It was lovely! 

We plan to stay here tomorrow - I want to walk round the village, and there is a restaurant we might go to, for lunch if not for supper. And I expect the SW will want another long, healthy walk. I did ring the campsite where we are going on Saturday night on the off-chance that they would have space for us tomorrow night as well, but they sadly didn't. 

I haven't taken any photos today, so here is one I took last night. 

Christmas Markets, 6 December 2023

Sélestat, St Nicholas Day

Today seems mostly to have been taken up with finding somewhere to spend the night! We had hoped to go to Colmar for the next two nights, but hadn't been able to book into the campsite, and this morning someone reported on Park4night that the aire there was full. So we thought we would try Egolsheim, where there was a very nice, if expensive, aire. Unfortunately, however, the Swan Whisperer had been for a run (not really unfortunate - he loves it) and we were held up more by an extremely slow convoy on the motorway, so by the time we got to Egolsheim, it too was full. So we used the services and had a bit of a think. Finally we decided to come here to Sélestat, where the aire turned out also to be full, but there is a big, free car park just outside, and we are not the only motor home to have taken advantage of it!  So after lunch the Swan Whisperer went for an explore while I had a rest, and after a cup of tea we went for a very pretty walk round the Christmas markets here. They are so much better after dark!

There was an exhibition and stalls in what I think most have been a community centre of some kind, with stalls and, on the top floor, an exhibition of Christmas tables, some of which we liked, and some we didn't.

I am not very good at taking photos at night, but such others as came out will be on Facebook. After wandering around, we came back to the motor home, but the stall en route that said it had mulled wine didn't seem to, when push came to shove, but only sold horrid churros. We didn't bring any from Lidl (will have a look tomorrow to see if they do it here), so had to make do with beer, and then I cooked a butternut squash and chickpea curry for supper, which was lovely. And then it was time for the Advent course on Zoom, and now it is bedtime! The weather seems to have improved and there was hardly any rain! Long may that last. 

Christmas Markets, 5 December 2023

Ecomusée Alsace

We were too hot in the night, as the electric heating kept the WoMo lovely and warm. I slept fairly well, but the Swan Whisperer says he didn't, which is not surprising given that he had had no exercise!

We were away by 09:30 for another long, long drive across France, stopping only for a quick shopping and top-up of diesel, and then later for lunch. We finally got here about 15:45, just in time for the museum's reduced-price entry to kick in.

We were a little disappointed by the museum; somehow it wasn't nearly as good as we remembered from a few years ago. On our last visit at this time of year, there had been some sort of Christmas pageant, which I had not felt well enough to attend and the Swan Whisperer hadn't understood, but nothing like that seemed to be on offer today.

Lots of Christmassy decorations, and a very splendid Santa's grotto, with the elves busily stacking his sleigh, and carols - proper carols, not Christmas songs (but why English ones?) were played, but it was difficult to see which houses were open and which weren't, plus it was cold and drizzling, so I was quite glad to come away.

There is a restaurant which is both in the museum and in the nearby hotel, which said it was open for dinner, but its website hadn't been updated since 2021, when it would not have been, so we didn't try. I had been going to cook, but fell asleep, and in the end the Swan Whisperer made a demigod cheese and tomato omelette with leeks and chips, which was gorgeous!

No heating tonight, other than a quick blast before supper, as we are not on electricity, so we have retired to bed for the sake of warmth, and will read or watch videos until it is time to snuggle down.