To Saleilles, 10 October 2021

This morning we got up bedtimes and when I had showered and dressed, I went to the boulangerie across the road to buy a croissant for me and a pain au chocolate for the Swan Whisperer which we enjoyed after our boiled eggs. 

Then it was time to go back into Pau, to go to church.  They are still at the stage of asking you to reserve seats if you wish to attend public worship, so I had emailed them the previous day to do so.  We were warmly welcomed, and I think both of us enjoyed the service.  However, there was one awkward moment during the giving of Communion (Bread only, as is usual nowadays).  The chancel had been closed off by the rood screen (although there was a small door left open by the organ) and the actual organ console moved to the middle. 

The organist and the soloist were behind the screen, and when it came to receiving, they both pushed their hands through the railing, like beggars - appropriate, I suppose, but it made both the SW and me laugh. 

They can't, of course, serve coffee after church just now, so we set off fairly soon for what is, I think, the 2nd-longest drive of the holiday, to a town called Limoux.  We went via motorway, but it was a fairly scenic one, and every now and then we caught glimpses of the Pyrenees on the horizon!  We stopped fairly soon for coffee, hoping to be able to empty the grey, but he W, who went to investigate, found that the drain was blocked and unusable.  So we went on, and half an hour later stopped for lunch in a rest area, and then we did not stop again until we got here.  

Here is a very nice little aire, with full services (which we have used) and a piece of ground in front of the Aube

where either boules or pétanque, I don't know the difference, was being played. 

The SW went for a walk and I had planned to go on a short one to reconnoitre the local boulangerie, but somehow that didn't happen.  So I flopped on the bed and reread "Emergency in the Pyrenees" (Well, I had to, didn't I? ) until it was time to get supper.  Which was cod loin with (packet) lemon butter sauce, mashed potato, cabbage and leeks, so we drank some of the white wine we bought from Juigné-sur-Loire, and very good it was, too!  Saleilles tomorrow!

To Saleilles, 9 October 2021

Well, we are now in the Pyrenees, but won't arrive in Saleilles for another two days.  But to begin at the beginning:

We were parked up for the night at a little park near Cubzenais so that the Swan Whisperer could do a parkrun. 

This duly happened - we don't have an actual time as something went wrong with the official time-keeping, but his Strava says it was a little oer 23 minutes, and he came in 3rd.   As is so often the case here, many of the runners were British, including one couple who said they had spent the night in a very nice aire near a chateau, with all amenities laid on!  I had half thought of walking a lap, but when push came to shove I wasn't up for it, so showered, dressed and had my own breakfast while he was out. 

By the time he came back, showered and had breakfast, etc, time was getting on.  First port of call was a Super U where he got diesel and I did a shopping, and then on to the motorway where one of the Aires advertised that it had motorhome services so we went there to empty the grey and the loo.  We didn't take on any water, though, as we have plenty for tonight and tomorrow. 

After that, I don't know what the Satnav thought it was playing at, but it took us off the motorway and all round the rocade around Bordeax, horrible traffic jams all the way!  We had thought we would stay on the motorway all the way!  Anyway, we eventually did arrive on the motorway to Pau which was very quiet.  We stopped twice, once for lunch and once for the SW to make himself some coffee.  I still do not know why coffee wakes him up in the afternoon, but doesn't keep him awake at night. 

When we arrived in Pau, we discovered that the one and only motorhome aire was absolutely jam-packed solid with cars (and one or two motorhomes), so we had to come away.  We tried another place recommended by Park4Night, but it wasn't obvious where to go.  Eventually, we found this rather nice place in a suburb of Pau called Gan, which is much nicer than the original place! 

I think you are supposed to have a wine tasting, but we didn't.  Anyway, only about half an hour from the centre of Pau.  Abd best of all, there is a bakery just across the road which will be open tomorrow so we can have croissants for breakfast!  First time this holiday. 

To Saleilles, 8 October 2021

We did not hurry this morning, and it was not far off noon before we got away, having used the services and made sure we had plenty of water, etc, as we will be without for the next two nights.

Our drive today was enlivened by the Swan Whisperer's desire to see the sea (why, when he could take a train to Brighton any day at home, I do not know), so after calling in at a Carrefour Market (why was my Carrefour card valid, but not my coupon? ) to shop, we drove to Châtelaillon Plage where there was a very useful camping-car park that charged during July and August, but not the rest of the year.  So we parked up there and had lunch, and then went for a wander down to the beach and back. 

French seaside resorts give off a very different vibe to British ones, but, like them, are unmistakable.  This one would have been nicer had the tide been in, but it was as out as it could be, although I think it had started coming in by the time we left. 

Then it was time to set off again and once we got past Saintes we decided to remove the Satnav's prohibition on toll roads and came down the motorway the rest of the way to Cubnezais, which we are visiting because there is a parkrun here tomorrow morning.  The Swan Whisperer has walked the course (it is 3 and a bit laps, but he only did one lap) and soon I shall get supper.  

To Saleilles, 7 October 2021

Somehow I haven't done very much today.  Our friend J came round for coffee; it was lovely to see her and catch up on her news.  

After that it was time to move on.  Our first port of call was an E Leclerc - I was not very impressed, as I queued for ages at customer service to enquire about using their scan'n'shop devices, only to be told they were no longer in use.  Then it was totally not obvious where, or even whether, you should weigh your loose produce before taking it to the checkout - fortunately a very kind woman took my apples and figs and weighed them for me.  Someone else said you had to know where they were as it was not at all obvious, which made me feel better!

The Swan Whisperer said we should go to Fontévraut for lunch, as it wasn't very far out of our way.  I didn't feel like going up to the chateau so he went by himself, and then we drove on to this place.  He said it was a long old drive - I had a nap - but that is his fault for wanting to go cross-country rather than on the motorway (I do agree, it is nicer!).  

"Here" is a little village called Damvix,  which I thought was such a lovely name.  We are in a Camping-car Park aire; I joined the network a while ago and this was the first time I had used the card. 

You preload it with some money (you can refill online or at the sites) and then scan it at the entrance and exit to the aire.  Full services and electricity provided, but no sanitary block. Also Wi-Fi, but it is very slow and I can't stream my YouTube videos.  Cheaper than a conventional camp site, but not as many facilities.  This holiday is a mix of free Aires, France Passion, campsites and these places. 

To Saleilles, 6 October

Tonight we are staying in the exact same place we stayed 6 year ago tonight, on our very first motorhome tour. 

However.  The day started well with a run (for the Swan Whisperer) and a walk (for me) around the lakes where we had parked up. 

But after that it all went a bit pear-shaped.  First of all our friend messaged us to cancel, although we have arranged to have coffee with her tomorrow, so that will be all right.  But I haven't cooked for anybody for so long.... 

Then we had trouble finding a supermarket where we could actually take the van - they all seemed to have !height barriers.  Eventually we found a Lidl and two cars were just leaving as we arrived, so that was all right except I didn't work out how to use my Lidl Plus card in French until too late!  Plus their coupons are a bit pants this week!  

Then we headed on towards somewhere the Swan Whisperer wanted to visit and on the way found an E Leclerc which had  open parking and also a petrol station - we wanted diesel, and I could have done my shopping there!  Ah well, Lidl in France is a bit different to the English version (although very similar in many ways), and there will be other days. 

I don't know what the Swan Whisperer was thinking when he chose this particular aire to stop for a cup of tea, but it was nothing special (although it did have working services which we used) and meant we ended up driving through Angers in the rush hour.  But we got here at the same time as another English couple, and shared a wine tasting, which was very good, but we were in urgent need of blotting-paper by the time it was over.  We bought some nice wine  2 of white, 2 plain rosé and two sparkling rosé.  

It was too late to cook the chicken casserole I had planned, so we had an omelette with onion, tomato, mushroom and cheese, and very good it was, too. And they are also a greengrocer, and had a lovely display of autumn squash!

To Saleilles, 5 October

After breakfast this morning, we  walked into Villedieu-les-Poêles, which was not far - the town is not large, and the campsite is just on the edge of it.  It is a good job I did book us into the camp, as the municipal aire is closed while they renovate the car park in which it is sited.  

Our first port of call was the regular Tuesday street market, which was nice but not very big.  I bought some fresh tagliatelle, which we have just had for supper with a jar of sauce - yummy.  Anyway, that was all we bought at that stage, as what I really wanted to visit, and the main reason we came back here, was the bell foundry.  

They were kind and put on an English-speaking guide for us, although she had a strong accent and was not always easy to follow.  But she showed us how they cast the bells, using the lost wax technique.  And how they pour the molten bronze - I forget the exact ratio of copper to tin, but she did tell us  - into the mould in a huge pit.  Some of the bells were huge, nearly as big as the Swan Whisperer.  

We looked round the gift shop afterwards, which not only sold tiny bells (not that you need them these days; you just text your children to call them to a meal) but also some of the copper pots and pans made at another factory in the town.  Eye-watering expensive!

We came back via the local wool shop as I'd neglected to pack any contrast yarn to hold the stitches of the sweater I'm making for Boy 2, and a boulangerie where I bought half a baguette for lunch. 

It was then time to move on, so we drove to a Super U where I did a small shopping, including the aforementioned pasta sauce, and we ate in the supermarket car park.  The Swan Whisperer wanted to go and at least look at St Michael's Mount, which was not too far out of our way, but I slept most of the way, and when we got there, the car park was horrendously expensive if you weren't going to make an afternoon of it. 

So we came away and drove down here to Cesson-Sevigné, a suburb of Rennes, where we have been twice before.  Its USP is some lovely lakes to walk or run round - I plan to walk round in the morning, before we head on. 

To Saleilles, 4 October

The farm we stayed at is a traditional Normandy farm. They have a dairy herd of about 100 head of Normande cows. I am not sure of these are considered a rare breed or not. They rear their own heifer calves; the bull calves are sold at 2 weeks old to be reared for beef elsewhere. 

The farm retains the traditional Normandy layoit with the buildings widely separated around a large square. Most of them date back to the early 19th century. One, built of flint in a way which reminded me vividly of Sussex (which, after all, is not so very far away as the crow flies) contained an old bresd oven. I should have asked if it was still in use, because I believe it is used on special occasions.

It was a thoroughly enjoyable farm tour, and after it we got everything tidied away, used the services and drove down to Villedieu-les-Poêles-Rouffigny, where wr are in a campsite. I hope he foundry museum, which was closed last time we were here because Monday, will be open.