Another day on the river

 My family have developed a very nice habit of giving the Swan Whisperer Experience vouchers for Christmas, which we then like to redeem around the time of our wedding anniversary.  This year, my sister gave us tickets to the Abba Voyage concert, which we went to last week and both thoroughly enjoyed. It was amazing, and I do recommend it if you ever get a chance.

Meanwhile, my mother gave us the treat of a champagne afternoon tea at the Courthouse Hotel, Soho AND (it came as a package, but was two separate Experiences really) a day trip on the Thames with City Cruises.  We redeemed the afternoon tea on Friday, which was our anniversary, and very good it was, too! 

Then today we went on the river.

We didn't actually profit very much from the Hop-On, Hop-Off, as the cruises only stop at 2 places between Westminster and Greenwich, which are the London Eye and the Tower.  But we went down to Greenwich, which was a lovely trip in itself. 

We were hungry when we arrived, and there is a branch of Zizzi just by the pier, so went in there for lunch.  I had Chicken calabrese 

which was delicious, followed by an ice-cream sundae.  Also delicious!  Then we went for a walk around the Cutty Sark

and the old Royal Palace (now a university and the National Maritime Museum),

and then back to catch the next boat back upstream.  There were superb views,

but oh dear, the live commentary was dire - almost the same jokes as going down, but badly delivered, and he was totally patronising about the women (who he called "ladies") who built Waterloo Bridge.  I was very unimpressed, and even if I'd had any cash on me would not have left a tip.

We had planned to get off at the London Eye, but it didn't stop there on the way back, so we got off at Westminster Pier, and then walked up to Whitehall through the public subway at Westminster Station, and then eventually - it was rush hour by then - on a bus home!

Festive Fairy Tale, 28 December

So we are home.  We got up early and cleared our rooms before breakfast, and after it we sat in one of the lounges and read for awhile.  Probably we should have sat awhile longer, as we had a long time to wait at the station, but not enough time to go and do anything other than a brief leg-stretch.  However, eventually our train was called.  As predicted, it was rammed, and I was glad we had booked seats, as otherwise we might have ended up sitting on the floor, as some people had to do.

There seemed to be an extraordinarily long time to wait in Brussels, too, although I'd booked us on the recommended connection.  But eventually we were on the train back to London, where I extravagantly insisted on taking a taxi home, as I was so very tired.  And, although I managed to unpack, I have been asleep practically ever since!

So what about my impressions of a river cruise?  It was lovely!  I thoroughly enjoyed it, and would love to go again in a few years.  I think, though, next time I won't book all the excursions in advance - although we enjoyed them, some of the walking tours were unnecessary, as we could have explored for ourselves.  On the other hand, the guides did tell us a great deal of history we might not otherwise have known, and they were (mostly) obviously passionate about their towns.  

We didn't much care for the cruise director - he came across as extremely patronising, and even rude on occasion. Also unprofessional, tearing a strip off one of his colleagues where anybody could hear, rather than doing so in private.  But he was a minor irritant.  

The food was mostly excellent, except when the chef tried too hard - but there was only one dish I really couldn't finish, and I do seem to have come back rather fatter than when I left.  The cabins were comfortable, and it was lovely lying in bed at night watching the river going past.  The big disadvantage of a Christmas cruise, of course, is that you don't get much, if any, daylight sailing.  On the other hand, in the summer, the rivers and moorings are packed with tourist boats, and you have to clamber over other ones to get to yours!  

I still want to do the "long trip" from Amsterdam right down to Budapest and beyond, but perhaps not this year!

By the way, TUI is a budget option; I don't know, though, what more you would get on a more expensive line!  

Festive Fairy Tale, 27 December

Day 7, Worms

Our last day dawned simply gloriously! For the only time during this cruise (the big disadvantage of a Christmas cruise!) we were sailing in daylight all morning, past Speyer and Altrip and Mannheim and all those familiar places until we docked in Worms just before lunch. 

This was one tour I rather wished we hadn't gone on, as it turned out to be, not a tour of the old town, as advertised, but a tour of the Cathedral and the Luther monument (The Diet of Worms, for anybody who remembers sniggering at that when they "did" the Reformation) Our guide was dreadful - her English was minimal outside her memorised spiel, so she couldn't understand any questions, nor did she show us more than her favourite parts of the Cathedral, so we missed seeing an awful lot of it. But what we did see was lovely, to be fair, and the Nativity scene was magic!  

When we came back to the ship, we had a cup of tea, and then the Swan Whisperer went to hear a lecture on Christmas traditions, while I did most of my packing and had a shower to change before the final dinner. As always, when the chef tries too hard, it wasn't as good as it might have been! Why can chefs never serve enough vegetables, and if they do serve any, they are still half raw? The roast beef was lovely, but rather an odd cheesy sauce, which did it no favours, and it would have been even nicer sliced a little thinner. And I goodly had fruit instead of baked Alaska, which actually looked quite nice! 

Tomorrow we have to be out of our cabins by 08:30, but we can stay on board until 11:00 if we want. Our train isn't until 12:30. It is, apparently, going to be rammed after Cologne, so I have booked seats for us. Will let you know tomorrow how the journey ends, and my thoughts on river cruising. Meanwhile, there will be far too many photos on Facebook! 

Festive Fairy Tale, Boxing day

Day 6, Breisach

Christmas Dinner last night had been billed as 5-course gala dinner, but in the end it was only the usual 3 courses, with an extra glass of champagne. The main course was turkey (there was a fish and a veggie option, but most people chose turkey) which was moist and delicious, but, alas, no roasties, no sprouts, and very few vegetables! Too much meat, really. And no Christmas pudding, either - I chose the nearest option, which was a gingerbread parfait, and was rather disappointed that it was mousse, rather than ice-cream. Most people chose the fruit plate, so virtuous!

For some reason I slept really badly again, not quite sure why.  I didn't really want to go on the tour of Breisach, but decided I'd regret it if I didn't.

However, faced with enormous flight of steps to get up to the old town, I bottled it and went back to the ship. The guide had been very interesting about the history of the town, which is incredibly ancient. And seems to have spent most of the 18th century belonging to France.

The Swan Whisperer got lost coming back to the ship, and had to ring me up to find out how to get back as he hadn't noticed how we had gone. Fortunately I was able to orient him!

After lunch it had stopped raining and he decided to go out for a 10-minute run, his first since his injury in July. Sadly, he felt a twinge in his other leg, so sensibly decided to walk back.

Then we went to a talk about future cruises which was very good - no hard sell, just a description of what was on offer. And now we are waiting to set off again, which we thought would happen an hour ago, but it hasn't. We are sitting in one of the communal areas, which is nice.

Festive Fairy Tale, Christmas Day

Day 5, Strasbourg

We weren't supposed to arrive in Strasbourg until 09:30 or thereabouts, but in fact we were docked by 6:00. We assume because there were no queues for the locks to get in, as it is Christmas. 

There was supposed to be Buck's Fizz at breakfast, but we weren't offered any, but we probably just as well! we After breakfast, there was a "pause for reflection", not exactly a Christmas service, and then it was time to get ready to go on the expedition.

We are moored quite a way out of town, almost in Kehl, and there was a coach that not only took us into the town, but drove all round it first. Then there was a walk around the town centre - I took an inordinate number of photographs considering that we have been here before and will come again! 

After that, a boat trip, which again we have done before, but still worth doing, to remind us of the various places. And a long, long walk back to where the bus was parked, which wouldn't have been so bad if the cruise director hadn't walked far too fast, so I ended up feeling breathless and unwell. However, I recovered during the drive back to the ship, and a glass of white wine with a judicious lunch (want to be hungry tonight!) soon finished the cure. 

I spent the afternoon reading and watching the service from Brixton Hill (not live!), and then I went into the lounge to watch the King - the Swan Whisperer had gone back into town to see the illuminations, as he always does. He is now back and we are going to ring the family before dinner. 

Festive Fairy Tale, Christmas Eve

Day 4, Mannheim and Heidelberg

I don't know what was particularly German about last night's dinner! It was OK, I suppose; one of those "tasting menus" with tiny bits of this and that, some extremely delicious soup, mussels, which I didn't take (don't like them much), Then a choice of chicken something or a pancake stuffed with mushrooms, which I chose, but didn't really like, so left half of it. Then a chocolatey set of puddings, and we thought there would be cheese, but there wasn't. Pity, I wanted something savoury! But not particularly German, I didn't think, and not really to my taste except the soup! 

Then there was a violinist, who was very talented, but it was billed as classical and carols, but mostly he played music from films. But extremely well, and I enjoyed it. No carols, though. 

This morning, we had booked on the tour of Heidelberg, which left horrendously early - well, 08:45, which is horrendously early when you're on holiday. The coach took us up to Heidelberg Castle,

where our guide, while knowledgeable and enthusiastic, told us far too many anecdotes about it, and couldn't walk more than 3 steps without stopping to say something else. I don't think he realised we could hear him on our vox boxes even if he turned round and walked on.

There was a lot of interesting stuff, though, like one of the Kings being married to the daughter of James I/VI, and being in love with her. And that the castle was destroyed by the French in the 30 years' war, but the ruins have been carefully curated since Victorian times!

The coach took us back down into Heidelberg, to the drop-off point for the Altstadt, and our guide led us into the main square and then abandoned us to look round on our own, as he was not coming back with us.  We have been before, years ago, but walked along a bit and then went down to the river - the Necker - and went under the old bridge

back to the meeting-point, where there were benches we could wait on until our coach arrived.

There were hamburgers for lunch, and then both of us had a long nap! Afternoon tea was being served today, but neither of us was hungry, so we just had a cup of tea in our room. And now we are listening to the service from King's, which is a Christmas "must" for us. Sadly, there is no service on the ship tomorrow, and we will be out when our own service is live-streamed, but never mind. Third year running we haven't been able to go to Church on Christmas Day.

Photos on Facebook, as per. 

Festive Fairy Tale, 23 December 2022

Day 3, Mainz

My bluetooth keyboard has run out of charge so this may have even more typos than usual. Should have turned it off or at least disconnected the bluetooth!

We slept better last night, although we did wake up at one stage and discovered we were going through heavy fog and couldn't see anything! After breakfast, I went back to sleep for awhile, and the Swan Whisperer went into Mainz. We had made a nonsense of the tours and booked into the Christmas Market tour rather than the plain tour, and left it too late to cancel the one and rebook on the other.

However, the tour was very good, despite the weather, which was not! We walked round the Altstadt - my new headphones worked very well and I could hear the guide, who was knowledgeable, although his English deserted him on occasions!

We stopped in one of the Christmas markets for Glühwein, which was included in the price of the tour, and very welcome it was, too! Some people abandoned after this, but we walked on down to the bigger market and the Cathedral, which is amazing - it is a Cathedral at one end

and a parish church at the other.

It was built over a thousand years ago, as the Archbishops of Mainz wanted a place of worship worthy of crowning the Holy Roman Emperor. Unfortunately, on the day of its consecration it burnt down, and although they rebuilt it, the moment had passed and the Holy Roman Emperors were crowned in Aachen instead. 

We said goodbye to our guide just then, and after sitting quietly for a few minutes, walked back to the ship via a friendly neighbourhood ReWe as the Swan Whisperer wanted milk. I got some vegetable seasoning that I'm almost out of. We walked to the far end of the mall that the ReWe was in, and there was the ship, much nearer than we thought!

I have had a shower and changed as I was wet to the skin - my coat is very good but today's rain defeated it. And oh, sadliness - my favourite shoes are no longer waterproof. I have another pair with me, and my tai chi shoes which I wear around the ship, but even still - they can't have been more than about 8 years old. Oh well.

Tonight there is a special meal of German specialities, which we have booked in for. I don't know how much choice there will be - usually there seems to be 3 choices for each course - soup, salad or other starter; meat, fish or veggie main course; pudding, cheese or fruit. All very good! 

Festive Fairy Tale, 22 December 2022

Day 2: Koblenz 

I don't know how they expected you to sleep when the night contained such excitements as going through locks on the Main (with two sleepy geese as lock-keepers' assistants), and going along the Rhine past towns and villages, factories and wooded hills. What, we could have closed the curtains? That would be too dull! Anyway, I didn't sleep that well! 

So this morning we arrived in Koblenz while we were getting up, and by the time we went to breakfast, we were moored. Breakfast runs 07:30-09:00 or thereabouts - huge buffet with lots of different choices. 

After breakfast we got our acts together and reported, as scheduled, at 09:45 for our trip up to the Ehrenbreitstein fort

and then a walking tour of the old town. The first part was in a coach, up to the fortress, with extremely knowledgeable local tour guides who told us about the history of the town, how it was primarily a bunch of fort to stop the French invading up the Moselle... And we had a lovely walk round the fort with our guide explaining all the defensive mechanisms that were in use. Not that they were ever needed, but they might have been! 

When the tour was over, we got the bus back down to the Altstadt, going through the Neustadt en route. There we left the coach and walked round a bit, with the guide pointing out things we might otherwise have missed.

We did get to peep inside the Jesuit church (no longer run by Jesuit, but by another Order) that we hadn't gone into last time. Then the tour guide left us by the road that ran down to the river, and 5 minutes later we were back on board. 

Lunch came next; we opted for the buffet rather than another 3-course meal (that's for tonight!), and it was lovely. Only there was rare roast beef, and I didn't notice until I was on my way out, and didn't quite like to grab a slice to eat with my fingersI Oh well, there is always tomorrow! 

A nap was then very necessary, and I had hoped to go out again later, but wasn't going to happen, so the SW went out for a much longer walk than he would have done with me, and bought me a pair of headphones while he was at it - the "Vox Boxes" are not Bluetooth enabled, and I can't wear the earbuds provided. They gave me a different kind, which I also couldn't wear, but was able to attach to the leg of my specs with a twist of wire. Not ideal, though, so proper headphones will work much better. 

In a bit, we will go and listen to the "Port talk" on Mainz, tomorrow's destination, and then it will be dinner time. I don't fancy any of the evening entertainment, so we'll probably have an early night! 

A Festive Fairy Tale, 21 December 2022

This holiday is something a little different. For some years now, we have gone on a trip in the motorhome  to the various European Christmas markets, and but this year, because we can, we have taken a TUI river cruise on the Main and Rhine over Christmas. 

We left home at 09:00 this morning, taking a bus into Brixton and the Victoria Line to King's Cross St Pancras. The Tube was remarkably empty, but the same cannot be said for the international station! The queue stretched, if not quite the length and breadth of England, a good kilometre before you could get into the actual queuing area. I sat on a bench and waited for the Swan Whisperer, who had gone right to the back of the queue, and then joined him when he eventually appeared. Even then we were snaked round the departure area for a long way! But we got through eventually and got on our train, armed with a sandwich lunch. 

The train was a good 10 minutes late, but we still made our connection in Brussels with time to spare - well enough time to find a seat, anyway. Then a nearly 4 hour run to Frankfurt; the ICE3 not as comfortable as I had thought. We were moored quite near the station, so decided to walk down to the ship, which was easy to find. We just had time to the unpack before the welcome drink and introductory talk, and then it was dinner time. 

After a delicious dinner, we are now back in our cabin

and in a bit will go back to the lounge to see the ship set sail, hear a talk on Koblenz, where we will be tomorrow, and a quiz, which may or may not be fun. More photos on Facebook. 

"Why come ye not to court?"

 You don't go on the river for three years, and then two cruises come along at once!  This one was very different from our afternoon tea cruise.  This one was a short cruise between Kingston and Hampton Court, on board the Yarmouth Belle, which, built in 1892 is the oldest surviving passenger vessel on the Thames.  

We started off, however, by going up to Vauxhall to meet the Boys, and then up to Vauxhall Station, where we had just missed a train to Kingston, but they are every 10-15 minutes, so we didn't have long to wait.  The journey to Kingston takes about 30 minutes; the train said it was going to Strawberry Hill, as, indeed, it was, but it then looped round to come back via Hampton and Richmond, so the destination signs on the train said Waterloo, very confusing!  

The Boys had both said they weren't feeling very well, but soon cheered up at the thought of lunch at Five Guys, a favourite of theirs (and given the amount they ate, there can't be much wrong with either of them).  The Swan Whisperer and I had never been to this particular chain, but our expert grandsons showed us the ropes!  I chose a grilled veggie sandwich with cheese,

and very good it was, too, if rather difficult to eat!  The Boys both had burgers - one with bacon and cheese and the other with just cheese - and the most revolting-looking milkshakes topped with whipped cream, which they seemed to enjoy.  The Swan Whisperer ordered a grilled cheese sandwich with onions, and then we ordered a large chips to share between the four of us, which was just a nice amount.  

When we had finished eating, and topping up our water bottles with the free ice cubes provided, it was time to walk down to the river - not the loveliest walk in the world - and await our ship.  I had booked in advance, but in fact, hadn't really needed to, as there were only two other families on the boat with us.  

It is not a long distance between Kingston and Hampton Court, but long enough to be enjoyable.  The weather was rather irritating, as it was too hot with a coat on and not quite warm enough with it off!  The Boys spent some of their time in the interior, and went down the spiral staircase into the lounge - "Very old-fashioned," they told me.  I didn't go down, it looked rather steep for coming up again.  The Swan Whisperer spent all his time on deck, and I spent most of mine, as there was so much to see, from swans to be whispered at, 

St Raphael's Catholic church

Hampton Court park

and, of course, Hampton Court Palace itself.

"Why come ye not to court? To which court? The King's Court, or Hampton Court?"

The Boys were rather tired - I think they may have overdone it playing football the previous day - and so was I, so we didn't linger; we walked across the bridge to Hampton Court station (thus, for the Boys, and later for the Swan Whisperer, who took them home, meaning that they had gone under the river, on the river and over the river all on the same day!) and so a train to Clapham Junction and back to ours for a most welcome cup of tea.  

There are more photos on Facebook, if you are interested.

Tea on the River

Today, 31 March 2022, was our 43rd wedding anniversary.  For Christmas, my mother and sister gave the Swan Whisperer a voucher for an afternoon tea river cruise, and what better day to use it?  The Swan Whisperer added an upgrade package which meant that we would have a guaranteed window seat, a glass of champagne and a bottle of sparkling water.  

The cruise departed from Tower Pier, so we went by Tube to Tower Hill station, rather alarmed by announcements that the District Line "Was operating with severe delays"; however, we decided that we would go to the platform and see, and if there really was a problem, there are always taxis.  Anyway, when we got there a Circle Line train was due, so that was all right.  I hate changing at Victoria nowadays; back in the day it was just up an escalator and then up a flight of steps; they've stopped you going that way now and you have to walk miles and then up two flights of steps!  There is, I believe, a lift, but we didn't see it - and I seem to remember searching for it ages ago and it was an even longer walk!  Victoria station is now stair-free, if you need that, but very far from step-free!  

Anyway, we got there at last, and then although we did take a lift at Tower Hill, in fact I think it was a mistake as the first thing we had to do was to go down a lot of stairs and into a subway (very wide, well-lit and not smelling of pee!) to get across the road.  The pier was well-signposted, although I think it took a bit longer to walk than the 5 minutes Citymapper suggested it would (but then, I do walk rather slowly these days).  We were greeted by someone who said that if we were on the afternoon tea package, they would start checking you in at about 10 past 3, and it was then about 3, so we wandered round the Tower of London gift shop for a few minutes, and then checked in.  It was very easy, we just gave our names and they found us on the list, no need to show barcodes or anything.  We were shown to our table, and they poured out our champagne and water, and the boat set off at 15:30.  

The tea was as you would expect - sandwiches, little cakes, scones with cream and jam - and very good it was, too! 

They were able to bring me lemon for my tea, which is always a plus, and later they bought us a little cake to celebrate our anniversary - they got the digits the wrong way round, and put 34 instead of 43, but hey, who cares?  It was very nice of them, anyway.

The cruise itself was terrific, if a bit rough - the tide and the wind were fighting each other and downstream got very choppy and made the boat squeak.  The boat went up to almost the Houses of Parliament, then turned round with the tide to go downstream as far as Canary Wharf, and back up to the Tower, taking about 90 minutes, all told.  Such lovely views of London!  Last time we went on the river, it was on Christmas Day a few years ago, and without its buses, London had looked very grey, but this time the sun was out most of the time (it did keep trying to snow and the sky kept looking rather ominous, but mostly we were in sunshine) and it looked quite different.  We both took lots of photos of London, old,

 new,

and in between

(more photos on my Facebook page).

When we disembarked, we decided that as it was going to be too late for the Swan Whisperer to go to dance club, we would walk along the river to London Bridge and get a bus home from there.  This was good, but a very long way up to the bridge roadway, although I made it at last!  Then a 133 bus arrived, so we got on that and changed in Brixton, and I popped into Lidl for a couple of things, and then home, whereupon I flaked out on the sofa for a couple of hours!  It was a lovely trip.

Christmas on the River

For the first time for many years, we had found ourselves with no plans for Christmas.  I am sure my sister would have invited us, but we didn't want her to feel she had to, so we were pro-active and booked a lunch-time cruise on the Thames, leaving from Westminster Pier. 

On Christmas Day, of course, there is no public transport in London, but one can park, so we drove up to Westminster and found a parking-space behind Westminster Central Hall, about ten minutes' walk from the pier.  Boarding was supposed to start at 11:30, but when we arrived, about ten minutes earlier, they had already begun - and we were glad we had not been much later, since the queue behind us swelled to alarming proportions!  In fact, there were three boats making the cruise.

We had booked a window table, and, once our ticket had been checked, were escorted to it with a glass of sparkling wine.

  As soon as we sat down, our first course - a salmon mousse wrapped in smoked salmon and served with salad - was brought to us, but the boat did not leave its moorings until the scheduled time of noon.

The boat headed down river, under the bridges, past all the sights.  There was a singer-cum-commentator who did a fantastic job telling us where we were.  Many of the other people on the boat were tourists, from the United States and elsewhere.  We were able to spend time up on the deck, but it was too cold and dank to linger for long.  The next course was soup:

and once we had got past Tower Bridge

the main course of roast pork and all the trimmings (there was a vegetarian option, but we hadn't ordered it) was served, and then the pudding, which was some kind of straciatella cheesecake with a very nice fruit compote on the top. 

By this time, we were at Greenwich.  The boat paused at one of their piers, presumably to take on fuel, and went down the river nearly as far as the Thames Barrier.  Then it turned round and came back past the O2

 the Cutty Sark,

 the Shard

 Shakespeare's Globe,

 the Millennium Bridge

 Tate Britain,

 the Oxo Tower

 and, finally, the Houses of Parliament. 

Then the boat docked back at Westminster to end a most enjoyable cruise.  And then, because we could, we drove around part of Central London where one normally can't because of the Congestion Charge, and  saw the lights in Regent Street (we thought they were wasps at first, but it turned out to be angels!) and the big department stores.  And so home, and a much-needed nap!