Early spring holiday 2024, 22-23 February

Saint-Quentin

Our holiday actually started yesterday, when we packed, loaded up the car and drove to Sussex in the pouring rain. We then unloaded the car (well, the Swan Whisperer did; I was watching my sister beat my mother at Scrabble), unpacked everything into the motor home, and got everything ready except the beds were only half made. Then we gathered up overnight things and went back into No 6 to have a delicious supper of trout and vegetables, and to spend the night

We went to bed early as we needed o get up at 6:00 - of course, I didn't sleep that well during the latter part of the night, and was reading from about 05:30. We dressed, stripped our beds, filled a thermos, grabbed a banana each to keep us going, and were away just after 7 - my mother and sister still fast asleep

We should have arrived at Folkestone just after 9, and perhaps got on an earlier train, but there was an accident which closed the motorway, so we had to go all round the houses and only just arrived in time to check in for our booked crossing. However, we did have time to grab a breakfast roll and a coffee at the terminal before heading through passport control, etc, and so to France. 

It had been horrendously wet yesterday - a really nasty drive! This morning was much brighter; I could even hear the dawn chorus while we were getting ready to leave (I know it's about sex and turf wars, but still lovely), and the sun was out; but when we got to Calais we could see it was raining very heavily. And not just rain - sleety snow! So much for the spring! 

We went to Auchan where I shopped (stupidly forgetting that I didn't need a trolley when it was scan'n'shop!) and the SW got diesel. We then drove to the local motorhome place as we need a new bin, but it was closed until two, so we had lunch (including first-day patisseries, which had been reduced for quick sale, so rude not to, really!) and then had a look, but they didn't have the kind of bin we needed. 

So we set off, and drove to Saint-Quentin through very variable weather. I slept a lot of the way - I seem to be carrying a great deal of tension in my shoulders, and they are very achey. It is a very nice aire, only €8.80 including electricity and tourist tax, by the river. The Swan Whisperer went for a walk, and I hope to in the morning if the weather is not too ghastly. 

The Blessing of the River Thames

 You would think, wouldn't you, that a ceremony like the blessing of the River Thames would be practically as old as Christianity in England?  In fact, this ceremony is only about 18 years old!  Each year, the clergy and congregations of Southwark Cathedral and St Magnus the Martyr meet in the middle of London Bridge and hold a short service and throw a wooden cross into the river.

This year, I went, too.  I had been preaching at Stockwell, so it was easy to walk up to Stockwell Tube Station and catch a Northern Line train to London Bridge.  It was less easy, though, to find the entrance to the Cathedral - you can't go down the steps from London Bridge any longer, but have to walk all the way through Borough Market and right round the back.  In fact there is a set of steps up to the bridge from that side, which are very steep (but I managed them almost without stopping, which pleased me).  I got into the Cathedral just in time for the last hymn of their service, and watched the clergy process out, followed by the choir, with the choirboys remembering when to turn, and doing so, rather enchantingly, with military precision.

There was still awhile to wait before the service, but I went up to the bridge (as I said, not really having to stop going up all the steps, but I did have to stop when I got to the top and get my breath back), enjoying the view over St Paul's Cathedral in one direction

and London Bridge in the other.  I realised the service would probably be on the downstream side of the bridge, otherwise everybody would rush across playing Poohsticks once the cross had been thrown in.

12:30 came and went, and I was getting cold, but eventually the clergy procession from Southwark turned up, as did a great many other people, and eventually the contingent from St Magnus the Martyr arrived and the service began.  .  

It wasn't just about blessing the actual river, although that was part of it, but all who make their living on and from it, and those who die in it, whether by accident on or purpose, and their families, and so on.  It was quite difficult to hear what was going on, what with the crowd, and not everybody was good at holding the microphone near their mouths.  I was fortunate to be able to follow the liturgy over someone's shoulder (thank you, whoever you were). 

And the cross was duly thrown into the water ("when," said the rubric, "it is safe to do so" - they don't want it hitting an Uber boat on the way down!), and the service ended with a blessing.  

It is really completely bonkers, but really rather lovely, and it was great to see so many people not only watching, but joining in.

"There is a river that makes glad the City of God."

Christmas Markets, 16 December 2023

Yesterday at lunchtime we had a minor disaster, which I didn't mention at the time as it wasn't worth it. When the Swan Whisperer opened the cupboard to get the butter down, a butternut squash had obviously been loose in the cupboard,and crashed down on the table,knocking over both our cups of soup! We cleared up and thought no more of the matter, but, alas, the soup must have got into my tablet, as this morning it simply wouldn't turn on! Big disaster. I ordered another one which has arrived, but it seems to be going round in circles setting itself up - I hope it won't take too long.

Anyway, that didn't hold us back for too long this morning, and we were away by 09:30, stopping briefly to get diesel before heading to the terminal, where we were gratified to get on a shuttle an hour earlier than booked, and arrived at my mother's by noon, so we got most of the sorting-out done by lunchtime.

We were away by 15:30, but had to stop en route when we realised the car's tyres were on very low pressure, but that was easily and quickly dealt with and we were home before 18:00. Then a marathon unpacking session ensued, and I was very disciplined and made myself finish all my unpacking before I tackled the parcels that were waiting for me!

And so ends another holiday.  I expect the next one will be around the middle of February, we shall see.

Christmas Markets, 15 December 2023

Calais

Really, I suppose, we should have gone home today, and we would have done except that it is the Swan Whisperer's 73rd birthday and it seemed a shame not to stay one last night and eat out! 

We started the day (after breakfast) with a leg-stretch along the canal and back, but we didn't have far to drive, only about 2 hours, so we didn't stop en route, except to buy birthday patisseries and half a baguette. 

We parked up at the Cité Europe and had lunch, only I forgot that I'd bought the French equivalent of gala pie slices, which is annoying, but they will keep until Sunday, I hope. Then after a rest, we both went to Carrefour to do a Last Shop in France. I was annoyed - I could see that I hadn't spent quite €50, which is the contactless limit in France, so I thought I'd call it a shop, even though I hadn't got tinned peas or Comté cheese (which one can get at home) but I discovered, as soon as the shopping had all loaded on to the computer, that I had forgotten something vitally important. The woman who was checking my shopping was so nice - she told me to run and get it, and she'd add it to my bill when I got back. So I did, but, of course, it tipped it just over the €50 limit! I could have got other things while I was at it, but there won't be time in the morning. 

We drove round Calais, enjoying their Christmas lights, which, okay, are not Strasbourg standard (but then, what is?), but are extremely enjoyable in their own right, and then headed up to the motorhome aire for the night, and then out to the nearby restaurant, which was really well reviewed. But, alas, although it is supposed to open on a Friday evening, there were no signs of life anywhere, and they didn't answer their phone. I suppose they've gone bust.... 

So, anyway, we went a little further to see if a nearby hotel-restaurant was open and would do us a meal and it was and it did and it was delicious. Including champagne (because it was his birthday), foie gras (I know, but once a year!), steak for him and "ris de veau" (calf sweetbreads) for me. Delicious, but rather too much and rather too rich! Himself had a glass of wine, too, and we shared a bottle of fizzy water. 

And so back to the WoMo for the last night this year. I was so cross when I put my coat back on - I realised it did have an inside pocket, after all, where our passports and my credit cards could have lived, so I have been carrying my handbag round quite unnecessarily all holiday! Grrrmph! Oh well... I don't have to carry it once I'm home. 

Christmas Markets, 14 December 2023

Riqueval Bellicourt.

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and then, after we had digested our breakfasts, we made our way to the Thermapolis, and spent a blissful hour there swimming round the lazy river and being massaged by the various jets.

We then drove down to the local Lidl and parked up in its car park to have lunch, after which I did some shopping and redeemed a great many coupons on things I wanted, or that we will use.

The Swan Whisperer had decided we would spend the night at Riqueval, by the canal tunnel, so he drove there while I dozed most of the afternoon. It was already past 6 when we arrived, so he heated us up some mulled wine, and after that I got supper for us both. We don't have electricity here, and it has got a lot colder, so we will probably both go to bed very soon and read or watch videos.

I haven't taken any photos today, so here is one from earlier in the holidays: 

Christmas Markets, 13 December 2023

Amnéville, Lorraine

You know, I quite thought Bitche, where we spent last night, was in Alsace, but it turns out to be just over the border, in Lorraine. So I've corrected yesterday's post. But it really means we were already on our way home!

The Swan Whisperer volunteered to go and get bread this morning, and all I can say is that if I lived in Bitche, I wouldn't patronise that bakery! It really wasn't very nice, really chewy and tough. And the croissants weren't  flaky as they should have been. Oh well!

After breakfast we went for a walk round the Citadelle, which was lovely,

but it is a very steep pull up to the place, and my silly lungs didn't like it. They kept on informing me that they hadn't liked it for an unnecessarily long time afterwards! 

Meanwhile, we drove to the nearest supermarket - an Intermarché, I think, and I shopped. We won't need to get any more actual food this trip, only bits for Cbristmas, and stuff to take home. I want to go to Lidl tomorrow as they have some good coupons. And then a Last Shop in France on Friday.

We are at Amnéville yet again and I'm looking forward to the Thermapolis tomorrow morning. As we were here quite early, the SW, who had brought his skates with him, went skating for half an hour or so. He said he was at least double the age of the next oldest skater! 

Christmas Markets, 12 December 2023

Bitche, Lorraine

I should have known better than to suggest we walk to the bus stop after dinner last night! It was not far, probably less than a kilometre, and we took it easily. We had done the same walk last Christmas Day, but then the cruise director had set such a fast pace that I got badly out of breath and felt really rotten! No such unpleasantness last night, but the walk, combined with all the other exercise is talked, made me overtired and, as a result, I slept badly.

I should really have showered and dressed and not gone back to bed again after making myself comfortable this morning, as while the Swan Whisperer was dressing, I fell fast asleep again and didn't stir until nearly 09:30.   Fortunately, we were in no rush to get anywhere, as we had until noon to leave the campsite. And it was raining! 

We used the services, but there was a long queue to do so, and then headed back into Kehl so that I could shop at the ReWe there, and so that we could get diesel at German prices rather than French (only a few cents difference, but still). We then drove along the little stream beside the Rhine that we went along earlier this year, but there were not nearly as many birds today, only a few swans. 

We stopped for lunch in a lay-by along that road, and it was as well we did, as the heavens really opened! It was like someone pouring buckets of water over the WoMo, and it would not have been safe to drive! By the time we had finished eating, the rain was away and I dozed while the SW drove us to the aire in Bitche we had promised ourselves to visit last time. He has gone for a walk, and I have got undressed to save having to do it later! 

No photos today, so here is one of the city centre church in Kehl that I took yesterday.

Christmas Markets, 11 December 2023

Today was a day of two halves. The Swan Whisperer went for a run first thing, but took really rather longer than I'd hoped, so we were later setting off than I'd wanted.

Then we were just about to set off when  realised I couldn't find my motorhome keys anywhere, and we spent what felt like an hour but in reality was probably only about 10 minutes looking for them. I finally found them where I thought I'd looked three times already! 

We finally set off for Kehl, in Germany, which is just at the end of the tram line. Ciymapper does work here, but has its blind spots, and we hadn't realised that the quickest way to go would be to take the bus to Étoile Bourse and then change there for the tram. As it was, we took the bus to Montagne Verte, then two trams. And the second tram turfed us all off before the end of the route as someone had been taken ill and they were waiting for the emergency services, but it set off again very quickly, leaving its passengers standing indignantly on the platform! 

However, we did get there in the end! 

We walked down the main shopping drag, calling in at DM and Muller, only I couldn't spend as long as I liked as the SW does so hate shopping, poor man. And Muller didn't have any 4711 shower gel. I know one can get it in the UK, but it's twice the price! Oh well, just have to keep my rapidly-decreasing stash for Sundays! 

Then we went to Edeka and I did some shopping, although I couldn't get the herb blend I wanted. And it was incredibly hot in there, so I didn't even look for mulled wine (which we have loads of at home, anyway) or that lovely elderflower iced tea I like. I had left the SW having coffee, and had an Apfelshorle when I joined him. 

We went back to the motor home in time for a late lunch and a long nap, and then finally pulled ourselves together and headed back into town, although I have a feeling we were both too tired to really enjoy it. We walked back down through the Kléber market to the one outside the Cathedral, and after looking round we treated ourselves to tartes flambées and a drink, followed by pudding. Then we walked back to Étoile Bourse and caught the bus back to the campsite, and just too late to order bread for the morning. Oh well! 

And I am not long for my bed, I can tell you! Probably won't do any walking tomorrow, only a bit of shopping. 

Christmas Markets, 10 December 2023

Strasbourg, Alsace.

It was a very wet and windy night, and the Swan Whisperer decided not to go for a run this morning. Indeed, had we been at home, it was the kind of day that I would have eaten my breakfast before washing and dressing (except not, as it's Sunday and I would probably have been preaching, so wouldn't have been able to lounge around in night clothes all morning!).

We didn't have to leave the campsite until noon, so the SW did go for a bit of a walk; I stayed in and did puzzles and knitted. We did try to use the services before we left, but there was no water, and although I think we could have got a token from reception, we decided to leave it until we arrived here in Strasbourg. We did empty the grey, though. 

The SW had wanted to park up by a lake about halfway to Strasbourg, but in fact, it it didn't really allow cars to go to its shores, never mind motor homes. So we parked up in a nearby supermarket car park, fully expecting it to be empty as French supermarkets close at noon on Sundays, if they open at all. But it seems to have stayed open - I believe they are allowed to be open all day on a few Sundays a year, most of which they save up for the Sundays in Advent. Not that we needed anything, so I didn't go shopping. After we had listened to our church service - not all of it audible, I have to say - we had lunch and then the SW went for a short walk down to the lake. 

Then we drove to this camp in Strasbourg, checked in and used the services, and then found our designated site. After a cup of tea, during which we researched public transport options (Citymapper works here, so useful!), and what to do about tickets. There was an app to download for them, and after some discussion, we each bought a 3-day travelcard. We are only here for two days, but we may want to do a last dash in to Strasbourg on Tuesday morning, you never know! 

It is very easy to get into the town centre; there is a bus stop about 400 metres away (and, of course, Citymapper could tell us how long we would have to wait), and then you change on to a tram one stop up the road. 

It was not raining, and was fairly mild. We had a lovely walk round the Broglie market - the oldest, and, I believe, the first in Europe - which was, of course, very crowded. We then walked down to Kleber, and the giant Christmas tree

there. That was even more crowded, and we decided that maybe it, and the market round the Cathedral, would be best kept until tomorrow when it will, hopefully, be less crowded. 

We then walked down to Petite France, which the Swan Whisperer likes, and saw the illuminations there.

By this time, I had rather had enough, so we walked up to the tram stop, and one came along in a very few minutes. We should probably have walked back to the campsite rather than waiting 10 minutes for a bus, but it was worth it, especially as we got a bit lost trying to find the WoMo! 

But we found it in the end, and settled down to choucroute for supper, and watching Countryfile on my tablet. 

Christmas Markets, 9 December 2023

Obernai, Alsace 

As we were in no rush this morning, the Swan Whisperer went and bought croissants and a baguette before breakfast, and after it he went for a long walk. Which he didn't enjoy as much as the earlier one he had done, as there was a shooting-party going on, with guns stationed all down the path he wanted to go down, so he had to go to another chateau instead, which he said wasn't so nice.

Once he was back, we used he services and then headed on to a very nice Super U which not only had the supermarket and "Drive" (Click and Collect), but also dedicated motorhome parking, services and launderette, and the petrol station sold gas, which was perfect as we ran out over lunch! So the SW was able to walk over there with the empty cube and return with a full one.

But when we arrived at the campsite, we discovered, to our horror, that I had accidentally booked us in for tomorrow, not tonight! But the extremely nice woman in reception said not to worry, she would fit us in somehow, and to be sure to double-check our booking for Strasbourg as she knew it was full! I did double check, and it's fine! 

We parked up and had a cup of tea, and then went to avail ourselves of the free shuttle into the Christmas markets there. Which were okay - rather smaller than I was expecting, but all the usual things. And the local restaurants were all open and doing a roaring trade, even though it was only about 5:00 pm. We treated ourselves to a mulled wine from a stall, and had a good walk round, getting slightly lost on the way back. 

However, we  found the church that was our landmark, and went in there to see the advertised exhibition of Christmas cribs, to find that we had also come in for the end of a free concert by a local choir. They included a song called "Christmas in Jerusalem", which the choir mistress said had been chosen before 7 October, but felt it was appropriate to include it as it was about three people from different religious traditions celebrating together in joy and peace.  After which, we looked at the cribs before getting the free shuttle back to the campsite. 

Strasbourg tomorrow, for two nights, and then we start for home. 

Christmas Markets, 8 December 2023

Andlau, Alsace

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and then went to get croissants for breakfast.

We then spent the morning reading, etc - I may have fallen asleep at some stage and had a vivid dream! But at about 12:15 we got ready to explore this little town. 

Well! For somewhere we had never heard of, and which we only went to because we were desperate to find somewhere to spend two nights, Andlau is a simply lovely place and deserves to be more widely known! We had a lovely walk round it, stopping to take lots of photos of the lovely old houses,

and then we had lunch in a restaurant called Le Boeuf Rouge. We were lucky to get a seat there, actually. Sadly, although they advertised flammekuechen, they only serve them in the evenings, so we had galette de pommes de terre with salad and Munster cheese, including a huge slab of it which I wrapped up in my napkin to take home. Then the SW had Black Forest Gateau and a coffee, and I had a "Café Gourmand", which was lovely, but really rather greedy! 

After this, we went across the square to the local museum, called La Seigneurie, which was superb value for €5 each. Three floors of exhibition space about the local area, including a large room devoted to religious observance, and lots of explanations about the differences between Protestant, Catholic and Jewish worship. Also information about the ruling family, the d'Andlaus, who had lived in the Seigneurie when it was a residence. It was very interesting, and I was sorry that we were the only two visitors. 

Then back to the WoMo, where we have spent the rest of the day. We did not want much in the way of supper! 

Christmas Markets, 7 December 2023

We were very comfortable, if cold, spending the night in the car park at Sélestat. Of course, there was no electricity, so we had to rather ration the heating.

We thought we had better go to Ribeauvillé as soon as possible, to try to get a space in the aire there, but we stopped at Lidl en route to see if they sold mulled wine (of course they didn't - can you really see the French selling it in bottles?), and by the time we got to Ribeauvillé, it was too late, too late... And by the time we realised it was going to be too late, there was a long queue of hopeful motorhome waiting to try to get in!

So I said sod this for a game of soldiers, and we looked up Camping-Car parks, which have the merit of telling you how many spaces they have available! The nearest one was at Dambach-la-Ville, but although it was very nice and there was space, it was rather in the middle of nowhere. This one, at Andlau, is much nearer the centre of the village. 

I was fairly tired today, so didn't go out except for walking round Lidl, but this is Swan Whisperer territory par excellence, and he went for a long, healthy walk this afternoon which he thoroughly enjoyed, while I stayed in and read and did puzzles and so on. 

When he came in, we had a cup of tea, and may have dozed off for a bit. Then it was time to get supper, and I cooked a chicken, leek and mushroom casserole, which I served with mashed potatoes and carrots and Brussels sprouts. Followed by yoghurt. It was lovely! 

We plan to stay here tomorrow - I want to walk round the village, and there is a restaurant we might go to, for lunch if not for supper. And I expect the SW will want another long, healthy walk. I did ring the campsite where we are going on Saturday night on the off-chance that they would have space for us tomorrow night as well, but they sadly didn't. 

I haven't taken any photos today, so here is one I took last night.