Early spring holiday 2024, 22-23 February

Saint-Quentin

Our holiday actually started yesterday, when we packed, loaded up the car and drove to Sussex in the pouring rain. We then unloaded the car (well, the Swan Whisperer did; I was watching my sister beat my mother at Scrabble), unpacked everything into the motor home, and got everything ready except the beds were only half made. Then we gathered up overnight things and went back into No 6 to have a delicious supper of trout and vegetables, and to spend the night

We went to bed early as we needed o get up at 6:00 - of course, I didn't sleep that well during the latter part of the night, and was reading from about 05:30. We dressed, stripped our beds, filled a thermos, grabbed a banana each to keep us going, and were away just after 7 - my mother and sister still fast asleep

We should have arrived at Folkestone just after 9, and perhaps got on an earlier train, but there was an accident which closed the motorway, so we had to go all round the houses and only just arrived in time to check in for our booked crossing. However, we did have time to grab a breakfast roll and a coffee at the terminal before heading through passport control, etc, and so to France. 

It had been horrendously wet yesterday - a really nasty drive! This morning was much brighter; I could even hear the dawn chorus while we were getting ready to leave (I know it's about sex and turf wars, but still lovely), and the sun was out; but when we got to Calais we could see it was raining very heavily. And not just rain - sleety snow! So much for the spring! 

We went to Auchan where I shopped (stupidly forgetting that I didn't need a trolley when it was scan'n'shop!) and the SW got diesel. We then drove to the local motorhome place as we need a new bin, but it was closed until two, so we had lunch (including first-day patisseries, which had been reduced for quick sale, so rude not to, really!) and then had a look, but they didn't have the kind of bin we needed. 

So we set off, and drove to Saint-Quentin through very variable weather. I slept a lot of the way - I seem to be carrying a great deal of tension in my shoulders, and they are very achey. It is a very nice aire, only €8.80 including electricity and tourist tax, by the river. The Swan Whisperer went for a walk, and I hope to in the morning if the weather is not too ghastly. 

The Blessing of the River Thames

 You would think, wouldn't you, that a ceremony like the blessing of the River Thames would be practically as old as Christianity in England?  In fact, this ceremony is only about 18 years old!  Each year, the clergy and congregations of Southwark Cathedral and St Magnus the Martyr meet in the middle of London Bridge and hold a short service and throw a wooden cross into the river.

This year, I went, too.  I had been preaching at Stockwell, so it was easy to walk up to Stockwell Tube Station and catch a Northern Line train to London Bridge.  It was less easy, though, to find the entrance to the Cathedral - you can't go down the steps from London Bridge any longer, but have to walk all the way through Borough Market and right round the back.  In fact there is a set of steps up to the bridge from that side, which are very steep (but I managed them almost without stopping, which pleased me).  I got into the Cathedral just in time for the last hymn of their service, and watched the clergy process out, followed by the choir, with the choirboys remembering when to turn, and doing so, rather enchantingly, with military precision.

There was still awhile to wait before the service, but I went up to the bridge (as I said, not really having to stop going up all the steps, but I did have to stop when I got to the top and get my breath back), enjoying the view over St Paul's Cathedral in one direction

and London Bridge in the other.  I realised the service would probably be on the downstream side of the bridge, otherwise everybody would rush across playing Poohsticks once the cross had been thrown in.

12:30 came and went, and I was getting cold, but eventually the clergy procession from Southwark turned up, as did a great many other people, and eventually the contingent from St Magnus the Martyr arrived and the service began.  .  

It wasn't just about blessing the actual river, although that was part of it, but all who make their living on and from it, and those who die in it, whether by accident on or purpose, and their families, and so on.  It was quite difficult to hear what was going on, what with the crowd, and not everybody was good at holding the microphone near their mouths.  I was fortunate to be able to follow the liturgy over someone's shoulder (thank you, whoever you were). 

And the cross was duly thrown into the water ("when," said the rubric, "it is safe to do so" - they don't want it hitting an Uber boat on the way down!), and the service ended with a blessing.  

It is really completely bonkers, but really rather lovely, and it was great to see so many people not only watching, but joining in.

"There is a river that makes glad the City of God."

Christmas Markets, 16 December 2023

Yesterday at lunchtime we had a minor disaster, which I didn't mention at the time as it wasn't worth it. When the Swan Whisperer opened the cupboard to get the butter down, a butternut squash had obviously been loose in the cupboard,and crashed down on the table,knocking over both our cups of soup! We cleared up and thought no more of the matter, but, alas, the soup must have got into my tablet, as this morning it simply wouldn't turn on! Big disaster. I ordered another one which has arrived, but it seems to be going round in circles setting itself up - I hope it won't take too long.

Anyway, that didn't hold us back for too long this morning, and we were away by 09:30, stopping briefly to get diesel before heading to the terminal, where we were gratified to get on a shuttle an hour earlier than booked, and arrived at my mother's by noon, so we got most of the sorting-out done by lunchtime.

We were away by 15:30, but had to stop en route when we realised the car's tyres were on very low pressure, but that was easily and quickly dealt with and we were home before 18:00. Then a marathon unpacking session ensued, and I was very disciplined and made myself finish all my unpacking before I tackled the parcels that were waiting for me!

And so ends another holiday.  I expect the next one will be around the middle of February, we shall see.

Christmas Markets, 15 December 2023

Calais

Really, I suppose, we should have gone home today, and we would have done except that it is the Swan Whisperer's 73rd birthday and it seemed a shame not to stay one last night and eat out! 

We started the day (after breakfast) with a leg-stretch along the canal and back, but we didn't have far to drive, only about 2 hours, so we didn't stop en route, except to buy birthday patisseries and half a baguette. 

We parked up at the Cité Europe and had lunch, only I forgot that I'd bought the French equivalent of gala pie slices, which is annoying, but they will keep until Sunday, I hope. Then after a rest, we both went to Carrefour to do a Last Shop in France. I was annoyed - I could see that I hadn't spent quite €50, which is the contactless limit in France, so I thought I'd call it a shop, even though I hadn't got tinned peas or Comté cheese (which one can get at home) but I discovered, as soon as the shopping had all loaded on to the computer, that I had forgotten something vitally important. The woman who was checking my shopping was so nice - she told me to run and get it, and she'd add it to my bill when I got back. So I did, but, of course, it tipped it just over the €50 limit! I could have got other things while I was at it, but there won't be time in the morning. 

We drove round Calais, enjoying their Christmas lights, which, okay, are not Strasbourg standard (but then, what is?), but are extremely enjoyable in their own right, and then headed up to the motorhome aire for the night, and then out to the nearby restaurant, which was really well reviewed. But, alas, although it is supposed to open on a Friday evening, there were no signs of life anywhere, and they didn't answer their phone. I suppose they've gone bust.... 

So, anyway, we went a little further to see if a nearby hotel-restaurant was open and would do us a meal and it was and it did and it was delicious. Including champagne (because it was his birthday), foie gras (I know, but once a year!), steak for him and "ris de veau" (calf sweetbreads) for me. Delicious, but rather too much and rather too rich! Himself had a glass of wine, too, and we shared a bottle of fizzy water. 

And so back to the WoMo for the last night this year. I was so cross when I put my coat back on - I realised it did have an inside pocket, after all, where our passports and my credit cards could have lived, so I have been carrying my handbag round quite unnecessarily all holiday! Grrrmph! Oh well... I don't have to carry it once I'm home. 

Christmas Markets, 14 December 2023

Riqueval Bellicourt.

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and then, after we had digested our breakfasts, we made our way to the Thermapolis, and spent a blissful hour there swimming round the lazy river and being massaged by the various jets.

We then drove down to the local Lidl and parked up in its car park to have lunch, after which I did some shopping and redeemed a great many coupons on things I wanted, or that we will use.

The Swan Whisperer had decided we would spend the night at Riqueval, by the canal tunnel, so he drove there while I dozed most of the afternoon. It was already past 6 when we arrived, so he heated us up some mulled wine, and after that I got supper for us both. We don't have electricity here, and it has got a lot colder, so we will probably both go to bed very soon and read or watch videos.

I haven't taken any photos today, so here is one from earlier in the holidays: 

Christmas Markets, 13 December 2023

Amnéville, Lorraine

You know, I quite thought Bitche, where we spent last night, was in Alsace, but it turns out to be just over the border, in Lorraine. So I've corrected yesterday's post. But it really means we were already on our way home!

The Swan Whisperer volunteered to go and get bread this morning, and all I can say is that if I lived in Bitche, I wouldn't patronise that bakery! It really wasn't very nice, really chewy and tough. And the croissants weren't  flaky as they should have been. Oh well!

After breakfast we went for a walk round the Citadelle, which was lovely,

but it is a very steep pull up to the place, and my silly lungs didn't like it. They kept on informing me that they hadn't liked it for an unnecessarily long time afterwards! 

Meanwhile, we drove to the nearest supermarket - an Intermarché, I think, and I shopped. We won't need to get any more actual food this trip, only bits for Cbristmas, and stuff to take home. I want to go to Lidl tomorrow as they have some good coupons. And then a Last Shop in France on Friday.

We are at Amnéville yet again and I'm looking forward to the Thermapolis tomorrow morning. As we were here quite early, the SW, who had brought his skates with him, went skating for half an hour or so. He said he was at least double the age of the next oldest skater! 

Christmas Markets, 12 December 2023

Bitche, Lorraine

I should have known better than to suggest we walk to the bus stop after dinner last night! It was not far, probably less than a kilometre, and we took it easily. We had done the same walk last Christmas Day, but then the cruise director had set such a fast pace that I got badly out of breath and felt really rotten! No such unpleasantness last night, but the walk, combined with all the other exercise is talked, made me overtired and, as a result, I slept badly.

I should really have showered and dressed and not gone back to bed again after making myself comfortable this morning, as while the Swan Whisperer was dressing, I fell fast asleep again and didn't stir until nearly 09:30.   Fortunately, we were in no rush to get anywhere, as we had until noon to leave the campsite. And it was raining! 

We used the services, but there was a long queue to do so, and then headed back into Kehl so that I could shop at the ReWe there, and so that we could get diesel at German prices rather than French (only a few cents difference, but still). We then drove along the little stream beside the Rhine that we went along earlier this year, but there were not nearly as many birds today, only a few swans. 

We stopped for lunch in a lay-by along that road, and it was as well we did, as the heavens really opened! It was like someone pouring buckets of water over the WoMo, and it would not have been safe to drive! By the time we had finished eating, the rain was away and I dozed while the SW drove us to the aire in Bitche we had promised ourselves to visit last time. He has gone for a walk, and I have got undressed to save having to do it later! 

No photos today, so here is one of the city centre church in Kehl that I took yesterday.

Christmas Markets, 11 December 2023

Today was a day of two halves. The Swan Whisperer went for a run first thing, but took really rather longer than I'd hoped, so we were later setting off than I'd wanted.

Then we were just about to set off when  realised I couldn't find my motorhome keys anywhere, and we spent what felt like an hour but in reality was probably only about 10 minutes looking for them. I finally found them where I thought I'd looked three times already! 

We finally set off for Kehl, in Germany, which is just at the end of the tram line. Ciymapper does work here, but has its blind spots, and we hadn't realised that the quickest way to go would be to take the bus to Étoile Bourse and then change there for the tram. As it was, we took the bus to Montagne Verte, then two trams. And the second tram turfed us all off before the end of the route as someone had been taken ill and they were waiting for the emergency services, but it set off again very quickly, leaving its passengers standing indignantly on the platform! 

However, we did get there in the end! 

We walked down the main shopping drag, calling in at DM and Muller, only I couldn't spend as long as I liked as the SW does so hate shopping, poor man. And Muller didn't have any 4711 shower gel. I know one can get it in the UK, but it's twice the price! Oh well, just have to keep my rapidly-decreasing stash for Sundays! 

Then we went to Edeka and I did some shopping, although I couldn't get the herb blend I wanted. And it was incredibly hot in there, so I didn't even look for mulled wine (which we have loads of at home, anyway) or that lovely elderflower iced tea I like. I had left the SW having coffee, and had an Apfelshorle when I joined him. 

We went back to the motor home in time for a late lunch and a long nap, and then finally pulled ourselves together and headed back into town, although I have a feeling we were both too tired to really enjoy it. We walked back down through the Kléber market to the one outside the Cathedral, and after looking round we treated ourselves to tartes flambées and a drink, followed by pudding. Then we walked back to Étoile Bourse and caught the bus back to the campsite, and just too late to order bread for the morning. Oh well! 

And I am not long for my bed, I can tell you! Probably won't do any walking tomorrow, only a bit of shopping. 

Christmas Markets, 10 December 2023

Strasbourg, Alsace.

It was a very wet and windy night, and the Swan Whisperer decided not to go for a run this morning. Indeed, had we been at home, it was the kind of day that I would have eaten my breakfast before washing and dressing (except not, as it's Sunday and I would probably have been preaching, so wouldn't have been able to lounge around in night clothes all morning!).

We didn't have to leave the campsite until noon, so the SW did go for a bit of a walk; I stayed in and did puzzles and knitted. We did try to use the services before we left, but there was no water, and although I think we could have got a token from reception, we decided to leave it until we arrived here in Strasbourg. We did empty the grey, though. 

The SW had wanted to park up by a lake about halfway to Strasbourg, but in fact, it it didn't really allow cars to go to its shores, never mind motor homes. So we parked up in a nearby supermarket car park, fully expecting it to be empty as French supermarkets close at noon on Sundays, if they open at all. But it seems to have stayed open - I believe they are allowed to be open all day on a few Sundays a year, most of which they save up for the Sundays in Advent. Not that we needed anything, so I didn't go shopping. After we had listened to our church service - not all of it audible, I have to say - we had lunch and then the SW went for a short walk down to the lake. 

Then we drove to this camp in Strasbourg, checked in and used the services, and then found our designated site. After a cup of tea, during which we researched public transport options (Citymapper works here, so useful!), and what to do about tickets. There was an app to download for them, and after some discussion, we each bought a 3-day travelcard. We are only here for two days, but we may want to do a last dash in to Strasbourg on Tuesday morning, you never know! 

It is very easy to get into the town centre; there is a bus stop about 400 metres away (and, of course, Citymapper could tell us how long we would have to wait), and then you change on to a tram one stop up the road. 

It was not raining, and was fairly mild. We had a lovely walk round the Broglie market - the oldest, and, I believe, the first in Europe - which was, of course, very crowded. We then walked down to Kleber, and the giant Christmas tree

there. That was even more crowded, and we decided that maybe it, and the market round the Cathedral, would be best kept until tomorrow when it will, hopefully, be less crowded. 

We then walked down to Petite France, which the Swan Whisperer likes, and saw the illuminations there.

By this time, I had rather had enough, so we walked up to the tram stop, and one came along in a very few minutes. We should probably have walked back to the campsite rather than waiting 10 minutes for a bus, but it was worth it, especially as we got a bit lost trying to find the WoMo! 

But we found it in the end, and settled down to choucroute for supper, and watching Countryfile on my tablet. 

Christmas Markets, 9 December 2023

Obernai, Alsace 

As we were in no rush this morning, the Swan Whisperer went and bought croissants and a baguette before breakfast, and after it he went for a long walk. Which he didn't enjoy as much as the earlier one he had done, as there was a shooting-party going on, with guns stationed all down the path he wanted to go down, so he had to go to another chateau instead, which he said wasn't so nice.

Once he was back, we used he services and then headed on to a very nice Super U which not only had the supermarket and "Drive" (Click and Collect), but also dedicated motorhome parking, services and launderette, and the petrol station sold gas, which was perfect as we ran out over lunch! So the SW was able to walk over there with the empty cube and return with a full one.

But when we arrived at the campsite, we discovered, to our horror, that I had accidentally booked us in for tomorrow, not tonight! But the extremely nice woman in reception said not to worry, she would fit us in somehow, and to be sure to double-check our booking for Strasbourg as she knew it was full! I did double check, and it's fine! 

We parked up and had a cup of tea, and then went to avail ourselves of the free shuttle into the Christmas markets there. Which were okay - rather smaller than I was expecting, but all the usual things. And the local restaurants were all open and doing a roaring trade, even though it was only about 5:00 pm. We treated ourselves to a mulled wine from a stall, and had a good walk round, getting slightly lost on the way back. 

However, we  found the church that was our landmark, and went in there to see the advertised exhibition of Christmas cribs, to find that we had also come in for the end of a free concert by a local choir. They included a song called "Christmas in Jerusalem", which the choir mistress said had been chosen before 7 October, but felt it was appropriate to include it as it was about three people from different religious traditions celebrating together in joy and peace.  After which, we looked at the cribs before getting the free shuttle back to the campsite. 

Strasbourg tomorrow, for two nights, and then we start for home. 

Christmas Markets, 8 December 2023

Andlau, Alsace

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and then went to get croissants for breakfast.

We then spent the morning reading, etc - I may have fallen asleep at some stage and had a vivid dream! But at about 12:15 we got ready to explore this little town. 

Well! For somewhere we had never heard of, and which we only went to because we were desperate to find somewhere to spend two nights, Andlau is a simply lovely place and deserves to be more widely known! We had a lovely walk round it, stopping to take lots of photos of the lovely old houses,

and then we had lunch in a restaurant called Le Boeuf Rouge. We were lucky to get a seat there, actually. Sadly, although they advertised flammekuechen, they only serve them in the evenings, so we had galette de pommes de terre with salad and Munster cheese, including a huge slab of it which I wrapped up in my napkin to take home. Then the SW had Black Forest Gateau and a coffee, and I had a "Café Gourmand", which was lovely, but really rather greedy! 

After this, we went across the square to the local museum, called La Seigneurie, which was superb value for €5 each. Three floors of exhibition space about the local area, including a large room devoted to religious observance, and lots of explanations about the differences between Protestant, Catholic and Jewish worship. Also information about the ruling family, the d'Andlaus, who had lived in the Seigneurie when it was a residence. It was very interesting, and I was sorry that we were the only two visitors. 

Then back to the WoMo, where we have spent the rest of the day. We did not want much in the way of supper! 

Christmas Markets, 7 December 2023

We were very comfortable, if cold, spending the night in the car park at Sélestat. Of course, there was no electricity, so we had to rather ration the heating.

We thought we had better go to Ribeauvillé as soon as possible, to try to get a space in the aire there, but we stopped at Lidl en route to see if they sold mulled wine (of course they didn't - can you really see the French selling it in bottles?), and by the time we got to Ribeauvillé, it was too late, too late... And by the time we realised it was going to be too late, there was a long queue of hopeful motorhome waiting to try to get in!

So I said sod this for a game of soldiers, and we looked up Camping-Car parks, which have the merit of telling you how many spaces they have available! The nearest one was at Dambach-la-Ville, but although it was very nice and there was space, it was rather in the middle of nowhere. This one, at Andlau, is much nearer the centre of the village. 

I was fairly tired today, so didn't go out except for walking round Lidl, but this is Swan Whisperer territory par excellence, and he went for a long, healthy walk this afternoon which he thoroughly enjoyed, while I stayed in and read and did puzzles and so on. 

When he came in, we had a cup of tea, and may have dozed off for a bit. Then it was time to get supper, and I cooked a chicken, leek and mushroom casserole, which I served with mashed potatoes and carrots and Brussels sprouts. Followed by yoghurt. It was lovely! 

We plan to stay here tomorrow - I want to walk round the village, and there is a restaurant we might go to, for lunch if not for supper. And I expect the SW will want another long, healthy walk. I did ring the campsite where we are going on Saturday night on the off-chance that they would have space for us tomorrow night as well, but they sadly didn't. 

I haven't taken any photos today, so here is one I took last night. 

Christmas Markets, 6 December 2023

Sélestat, St Nicholas Day

Today seems mostly to have been taken up with finding somewhere to spend the night! We had hoped to go to Colmar for the next two nights, but hadn't been able to book into the campsite, and this morning someone reported on Park4night that the aire there was full. So we thought we would try Egolsheim, where there was a very nice, if expensive, aire. Unfortunately, however, the Swan Whisperer had been for a run (not really unfortunate - he loves it) and we were held up more by an extremely slow convoy on the motorway, so by the time we got to Egolsheim, it too was full. So we used the services and had a bit of a think. Finally we decided to come here to Sélestat, where the aire turned out also to be full, but there is a big, free car park just outside, and we are not the only motor home to have taken advantage of it!  So after lunch the Swan Whisperer went for an explore while I had a rest, and after a cup of tea we went for a very pretty walk round the Christmas markets here. They are so much better after dark!

There was an exhibition and stalls in what I think most have been a community centre of some kind, with stalls and, on the top floor, an exhibition of Christmas tables, some of which we liked, and some we didn't.

I am not very good at taking photos at night, but such others as came out will be on Facebook. After wandering around, we came back to the motor home, but the stall en route that said it had mulled wine didn't seem to, when push came to shove, but only sold horrid churros. We didn't bring any from Lidl (will have a look tomorrow to see if they do it here), so had to make do with beer, and then I cooked a butternut squash and chickpea curry for supper, which was lovely. And then it was time for the Advent course on Zoom, and now it is bedtime! The weather seems to have improved and there was hardly any rain! Long may that last. 

Christmas Markets, 5 December 2023

Ecomusée Alsace

We were too hot in the night, as the electric heating kept the WoMo lovely and warm. I slept fairly well, but the Swan Whisperer says he didn't, which is not surprising given that he had had no exercise!

We were away by 09:30 for another long, long drive across France, stopping only for a quick shopping and top-up of diesel, and then later for lunch. We finally got here about 15:45, just in time for the museum's reduced-price entry to kick in.

We were a little disappointed by the museum; somehow it wasn't nearly as good as we remembered from a few years ago. On our last visit at this time of year, there had been some sort of Christmas pageant, which I had not felt well enough to attend and the Swan Whisperer hadn't understood, but nothing like that seemed to be on offer today.

Lots of Christmassy decorations, and a very splendid Santa's grotto, with the elves busily stacking his sleigh, and carols - proper carols, not Christmas songs (but why English ones?) were played, but it was difficult to see which houses were open and which weren't, plus it was cold and drizzling, so I was quite glad to come away.

There is a restaurant which is both in the museum and in the nearby hotel, which said it was open for dinner, but its website hadn't been updated since 2021, when it would not have been, so we didn't try. I had been going to cook, but fell asleep, and in the end the Swan Whisperer made a demigod cheese and tomato omelette with leeks and chips, which was gorgeous!

No heating tonight, other than a quick blast before supper, as we are not on electricity, so we have retired to bed for the sake of warmth, and will read or watch videos until it is time to snuggle down. 

Christmas Markets, 4 December 2023

Clermont-en-Argonne

I had just got off to sleep last night when the fridge started beeping at us plaintively to tell us we were out of gas! So the Swan Whisperer got out of bed and went to change the gas, but after a few minutes, the fridge beeped again. So I got out and reset it, but then of course I was lying awake waiting for it to start beeping again (it didn't) and then wondering whether the Swan Whisperer had relocked the door when he came in (he hadn't), and whether I needed a wee (I did). So it was about 4:30 am before I finally got off to sleep. French time of course, but even still. 

However, it had not frozen overnight, although it was very cold. But a blast of the central heating meant that it was warm to shower and dress (I refused to get out of bed until it had been blasting for several minutes!). We had breakfast, although it was raining so hard that the SW declined to go for a run or even to go and fetch croissants. Nevertheless, it was about 10 before we finally used the services and set off.

Our first port of call was the local Auchan, where the SW got diesel and more gas, and I did a shopping. I'm sure that place is six times bigger than it was when I was last there. One nice thing is that I got a new loyalty card last time I was there, and it is on my phone, and I was able to use it for scan'n'shop. They have a rather clever system whereby you return your scanner to a slot outside the paying area, and then when you get to a till, you rescan your card so it knows who you are and what you have bought. I did have to have 3 items checked, which was just a random check,  probably because I hadn't used the system before, but that didn't take long. 

By then, the SW was back, although he had parked round the other side of the complex, so I had to go back through the mall to get to him. Thank goodness for Google location sharing services, as when I zoomed in, I could see exactly where he was, and I didn't have to phone him and try to work it out from his description. 

Then it was a long, dreary, wet drive along the A26 - over 300 km of it. We did stop for lunch, but that was all. I slept in the morning, but after lunch did a bit of knitting while trying to find some music to listen to that wasn't boring. 

We have, as I thought been to this aire before, one winter's day when we were in desperate need of services and couldn't find any that were not locked out of use. Although we haven't used them this time, we know they are there, plus also showers and loos should we wish to use them. 

I tried to do a bit of a workout as I hadn't had much exercise, but it was cold and wet so I only lasted 5 minutes! But that breath of air was glorious and I felt the better for it. The SW has barely left the WoMo today, escept to use the services and to buy gas. Unlike him, but the weather has been so very horrible. 

However, because we have electricity here, the WoMo is lovely and warm. It won't be tomorrow, as we don't have any services where we plan to park up, but hey. We can go to bed early! 

I was just about to make a chickpea curry for supper - I mean, to the point of getting out the vegetables and spices - when I suddenly realised that one thing I forgot to pack was cooking oil! However, I had bought a ready-meal of kidneys in madeira sauce, which we both love, so we had that with spinach folded through it, and a potato-and-leek mash. Followed by those lovely French compotes with cream on the top. Delicious. I will get cooking oil tomorrow and we can have the curry then, unless we ďecide to eat at the Ecomusée. 

I suppose that if I were nice I could see whether we can stream Mastermind and University Challenge to our television. That, after all, is what VPNs are for. So nice not to have to go to bed more-or-less straight after supper, which we do have to when there isn't electricity. Gas is not finite, and it's a bore when it runs out in the middle of the night. Oh, and the SW has repaired his reading-light, or rather, installed a new one, so clever of him! So that's good, when we do go to bed early. 

Tonight's photo is of the bowl I bought last Holidays, very cheaply, to use as a mixing bowl when required and to mash potatoes in, as we didn't really have anything suitable. We could use the bottom of the steamer, but then you have to decant the water somewhere (it's not a good idea to put it down the sink as it makes the grey water reservoir smell even worse than it already does). 

Christmas Markets 3 December 2023

So we are off on our annual trip to the Christmas markets of Europe.  This time, we are going to Alsace, which we have done before and are looking forward to doing again. 

I was preaching this morning, so we couldn't set off until after that had happened, and by the time we got away it was about 11:45. It was a very smooth run down to Sussex - we had got the first 25 minutes or so of the journey just going down to church - and we arrived there just after 1. After a delicious lunch of soup (made by my mother), bread and cheese (supplied by us), we loaded up the WoMo and set off. We were away shortly before 4, and arrived at Folkestone just on 6 pm, to be offered a crossing an hour before our booked one. And in the event, we were loaded on to the one 90 minutes earlier, which was terrific. 

Even so, it was past 8 pm, French time, before we were parked up in the aire at Calais and cooking pasta and (pre-made) sauce for our supper. 

It is a bit colder here than it was in the UK, but not by much, and just as wet! The forecast for the UK had been horrible - snow and freezing rain - but in the event it was much milder than it had been. All the same, because the heating in the church I was preaching in had failed, we were really quite chilled. I am looking forward to curling up in bed with warm pyjamas and a hot-water bottle! 

I didn't take any photos today, so here is one of a ginger monster that I took yesterday on my way to tai chi! 

Early autumn holiday, 8 October 2023

Of course, when you actually want to wake up early, you don't stir until the alarm goes off at 07:30! So it was a bit of a rush to have breakfast, start packing up and be away shortly after 9, but we managed it.

It's about a 45-minute drive to Cité Europe, where I did a dash into Carrefour for the things I hadn't been able to get yesterday, and then we went straight to the terminal. We were offered a crossing 30 minutes earlier than the one we'd booked on, but I'm fact it was only 15 minutes earlier, which was as well given the length of time it took to get through passport control, etc. We only had to wait in the holding pens for about 5 minutes.

After which it was a smooth run to no 6, which was expecting us to a very delicious Sunday lunch, as my nephew and his partner were there, too. They all went out for a drive round the woods while we packed up and cleaned the WoMo, and then it was time to go delayed by the Swan Whisperer'leaving his phone on the WoMo and having to rush and retrieve it.

We got back to London about 7:30 or so, unloaded the car (the eggs got dropped, so supper was an omelette!), did a bare minimum of unpacking, and so to bed. 

Early autumn holiday, 7 October 2023

The last full day of our holiday, sadly. Still, it's time to go home.

We bade our hosts farewell, buying some more of their utterly delicious yoghurt while doing so, and then headed into a nearby town to do a Last Shop, only they didn't have citrus tea or the extremely delicious chickpea salad that we enjoyed and I'm not sure what it contained (I think parsley, lemon and garlic, and perhaps a little olive oil, but wouldn't swear to it) . So if there is time tomorrow I want to pop in to Auchan or Carrefour or somewhere similar. Not the end of the world if there isn't time.

After this, we drove to the beginning of one of the more famous "pavé" section of the various cycle races, especially Paris-Roubaix, the Pavé d'Arenberg, where we also had lunch as we had timed it well! 

We decided the aire in Calais was too soulless, not to mention too expensive, for a Last Night, so we decided to go to this very nice aire in Esquelbecq, where we have been before. No sign of the peacock, though!  It's about 45 minutes from Calais, so we'll have to get up betimes (we can, when we have to!). 

I had been asleep on the drive over, and the Swan Whisperer wanted to "rest his eyes" (ahem!), so I went out for a short walk in the immediate area, which is indeed as nice as he said it was last year! He did similar when I came back, although I'm not sure where he went. I went to the local convenience store, but they didn't have what I wanted, alas. Also looked round the church and the brewery (its shop, not the actual brewery). Photos on Facebook, as per. 

Early autumn holiday, 6 October 2023

Chèvrerie La Bêle Fontenoise

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and then after breakfast just sat; I thought he was recovering before heading for a walk round Rouen, but he said he was waiting for me! Miscommunication rules!

Anyway, we thought we would drive down to Chamery via a village called Chigny-les-Roses, where we hoped to be able to empty the loo. We couldn't find the services, alas, but we did find a France Passion place, where I might suggest we spend the night on a future trip. It's all very well driving through Champagne, but I'd really like to get a chance to taste the eponymous wine, and this doesn't seem to happen!

However, we arrived in Chamery a few minutes later, and, for some extraordinary reason, it occurred to the Swan Whisperer that as well as putting €2 into the machine, he could press the button - and the services worked! We have only been going there for the past eight years...

Anyway, we then decided to go to Epernay, rather out of our way, but we decided we'd like to visit a museum about champagne. Unfortunately, when we got there, there was nowhere to park, so we had to come away. After which we rather thought "sod this for a game of soldiers!" and drove up here, to this goat farm near Cambrai. This is brilliant! 

We went into the shop and bought some goat's cheese - I tell you, you haven't lived until you've tasted goats' cheese stuffed with chestnut puree, it's lush! The very friendly people told us where to park up, and then said we might want to go and watch the milking, which should happen about 6:00 pm (it was actually a little later). 

It was more than just watching the milking; the goats have to be milked in shifts, and the farmer spent the first shift showing the children (there was a group of young families who had come to shop and stayed to watch) where the milk came from, and encouraging them to squirt their mothers with milk direct from the teat! And showing them how they put on the clusters and so on. Interestingly, goats are much cleaner than cows, so he can milk them in his everyday clothes and doesn't have to wear rubber aprons and boots, like you do with cows. He also didn't wash the udders, or disinfect the clusters between goats, although he pointed out that the milk went straight to the dairy from the goat without coming into the open air in the meantime, and the clusters are disinfected for at least an hour after the end of milking. 

Once the first lot had finished and been released, he rather dismissed us, so we came back to the WoMo and have been there ever since. There are two camper-vans here as well as us, one Swiss and one German. 

We had some of the goats' yoghurt with fruit for supper pudding, and it was delicious - I shall buy some more tomorrow before we head on! 

Early autumn holiday, 5 October 2023

Reims

Well, I don't know what happened last night, but we both forgot all about Compline, and I was asleep before 9 pm! Slept really well all night, too!

This morning we went  for a walk round Troyes, which was lovely, although rather longer than anticipated as the way we thought would be a clever way back to the WoMo was longer than it looked on the map. Still very enjoyable, though. We did stop for a coffee, which was delicious and a much-needed rest.

Once we had got back to the WoMo, we headed off to Reims via Chalons-en-Champagne, where we stopped for lunch and to do some shopping. At Reims, the woman at the hostel said the site was full, but I asked her to let us in anyway to use the services. Sadly, the drain for the loo is blocked so we weren't able to empty it, but we could empty the grey and take on fresh water. And there was just one space left in the aire, so we grabbed it! The SW has, of course, gone for a walk, but even he had a nap first, although he says it's because his phone needed charging! I expect it did... 

Early autumn holiday, 4 October 2023

Troyes, Champagne

A very frustrating day! The Swan Whisperer having said it wasn't worth going into Is-sur-Tille, we didn't  bother, but once we had cleared up breakfast and used the services, we headed on. Now, what we hadn't realised was that if you turned left out of the CCP, rather than right as he had done last night, it was a much better way into town, pavements all the way, 100m from a convenience store - and the town itself, from that angle, looked quite nice and I should have liked to have visited it. But too late, too late, so we drove cross country, first to the Lac d'Orient, where the SW went for a walk, and then on to the village where we had hoped to spend the night.

It really was a lovely drive, though - beautiful countryside sprinkled with pretty villages, and we both really enjoyed it. We stopped at a big and very empty Auchan for shopping and lunch.

But when we got to the France Passion place where we had planned to spend the night, nobody was home and it was totally not obvious where to park. We waited for over an hour (having a cup of tea while we waited) and then came sadly away. Probably as well for my purse, as they sell alpaca wool and so on... The Swan Whisperer found this car park in Troyes, where we are parked up next to what I think is the Seine.

Early autumn holiday, 3 October 2023

Is-sur-Tille

This morning I overslept, which didn't really matter as we were in no hurry; all the same, it meant we didn't get away until after 10:30. We went for a lovely walk around the old town centre of Chalon-sur-Saône, which was rather beautiful. The Swan Whisperer, who had explored the previous evening, said one of the streets was very Euro-high-street, but when we explored it together, we realised it was mostly French chains, and very few international. So it was a typical French high street, but not necessarily European! 

We came back through the public park next to the aire, and hoped to cut through the botanical gardens, but when we got to the exit, it was locked, so we had to go back to the gate we had come in by and walk round it back to the WoMo. Not impressed! 

We then set off to a big Carrefour on the way out of town, mostly so the Swan Whisperer could get diesel. I did a bit of shopping, but was very restrained and didn't buy 6 sheep's yoghurts for the price of four, as I bought some rhubarb compote for him, which he loves (and some chestnut mousse for me to have while he's having them, as I dislike rhubarb). And I resisted (with difficulty) buying a box of two cream buns reduced for quick sale. 

Anyway, after that we basically drove up the "Route des grands crus" north to, and past, Dijon; we drove through Nuits Saint-George, where we have often spent the night, either at the motorhome aire or in a hotel in pre-motorhome days; past Marsonnay-la-Côte, and the hotel where, twenty years ago, my mother spilt tonic water on the cushions on the window-seat! 

And it rained! We have had clear blue skies most of this holiday, and it has been really warm, but today it was cloudy and then at one stage the heavens opened. This, of course, was because the Swan Whisperer had just washed the windscreen, which was converted in dead insects. 

Anyway, we arrived here at Is-sur-Tille and after a cup of tea, the Swan Whisperer went for a walk which he then said had not been worth going on, as pedestrian access to the town was rubbish, and the town wasn't worth seeing when you did get there! Oh well, I expect we can find something to do en route tomorrow. I hope so, anyway. 

Photospam on Facebook, as per usual. 

Early autumn holiday, 2 October 2023

Chalon-sur-Saône

Today was a massively better day! The Swan Whisperer went for a run, although sadly he is still not fully fit and had to walk some of the way, especially uphill. But I am so very pleased he is feeling like running again - two weeks ago, even a week ago, he really didn't want to even try. Of course, it will take him some time to get fully fit again, you have to expect that, but I'm pleased the Alpine air did the trick, as we both hoped it would. 

Once he came back and we had had breakfast, we said farewell to our delightful hosts (who did not offer to sell us anything, which was a relief - you don't have to buy, but you do have to look if they want you to, and the Swan Whisperer always feels we ought to buy something). 

Our first port of call was the nearby village of Crémieu, which was said to have a mediaeval centre. It most certainly did, and we had an utterly delightful walk around it. There will be photospam galore on Facebook! Just the kind of walk I love, although there were some fairly steep slopes, and I bottled out of the steps up to the 12th-century chateau!

There was a convenience store, so we did the day's shopping, and as the SW was with me, he paid! Win all round! 

The Swan Whisperer decided he didn't want to spend the night in the place I had carefully chosen, but then faffed about deciding where he did want to go, eventually deciding on a Camping-Car Park in Chalon-sur-Saône. We set sail, but when we got here found there was a free municipal aire in a much better location than the Camping-Car Park, with free services! So we parked up here, and he went for a walk; it looks as though we are seriously not far from the town centre, so I am looking forward to exploring it tomorrow morning. 

Early autumn holiday, 1 October 2023

Saint-Hilaire-de=Brens

Not a good day today; I woke up with a splitting headache and feeling slightly feverish, which I hoped would go away if I ignored it. Alas, that was not to be, and although I should have loved to have gone to the local market, I simply couldn't find the energy!

So we used the services and set off. I hadn't realised that we would be retracing our steps a lot of today, something I always hate doing and would not have done had I realised. Which I didn't until the Swan Whisperer said he had marked the sports ground where we had spent the night as a good place to listen to our Church service and have lunch. 

Which also didn't work out as planned. The Satnav kept telling us to come off the N95, and we kept saying "No!" Unfortunately, the Satnav knew best as all of a sudden there was a height limit of 2m6, which is fine for a car but not for a motor home. We discovered later we could possibly have been let through - it is mainly to stop too many lorries going down a very steep slope - but as we didn't know that at the time, we thought better not. So we turned round and then were directed up the most horribly narrow road, all hairpin bends with steep drop-offs, just the kind I hate, and when we finally got down to the main road again we discovered that I had misprogrammed the stop (we had reset the Satnav when we turned round as it was having conniption fits by then), and I'd only been and gone and sent us to the launderette instead of the sports ground! Anyway, the SW sorted that and at one stage we had his phone and the Satnav telling us which way to go. 

We had been trying to listen to our church service, but it was impossible to hear against the road noise, and by the time we got parked up it was practically over. I thought I'd go for a leg-stretch around the playing-fields as I didn't really want any lunch, but couldn't remember the way I'd been the other day, and didn't really want a long walk, anyway. 

I did manage a scrap of cheese for lunch, and two big glasses of the German iced tea I like really helped. It's white tea, flavoured with elderflower, and not too sweet the way, for instance, Liptonice or Fuze Tea is. 

After which, I dozed while we drove back on the main road and up the motorway, and felt a lot better when I woke up. We are at a France Passion farm not that far from Lyon, and the people are so nice. They have been celebrating Monsieur's mother's 95th birthday, with 76 people in the village hall, 22 of which were her great-grandchildren! 

It is a duck farm, which also has lamb and chickens and stuff. And a cat!

And I am feeling a lot better and hoping to get a good walk round the village of Cremieu tomorrow, where there is a mediaeval centre. 

Early autumn holiday, 30 September 2023

Saint-Firmin

I haven't really done much today. We set off at about 10, having used the services and so on, and first port of call was a supermarket for the weekend shopping. Then we drove straight here, to Saint-Firmin, and that's about it, really!

The Swan Whisperer did go for a longish walk this afternoon, but we are in the middle of nowhere. The pitches are horrendously sloping, half the electric points don't work, the WiFi doesn't work, and there is very little phone signal. I am not a happy bunny, but you do get a few duff places everywhere. And there were some spectacular views on the drive here!

Early autumn holiday, 29 September 2023

Crots

The Swan Whisperer actually went for a run this morning, first time since he fell ill! Less than 4 km, but it's a start. He says he's very unfit still, but that's only to be expected. Later in the morning, he went for a walk, as did I a little later (photos on Facebook, as per usual). It was a bit confusing, as there is a vast campsite just near us (now closed for the winter), but then great signs saying it's a hunting preserve.

I don't think they hunt campers....

We didn't do much the rest of the day; it was always going to be a rest day. We basically sat in the shade of the WoMo and read, or watched videos, or dozed, until the mosquitos started biting, whereupon we came in and had supper! 

Early autumn holiday, 28 September 2023

Crots

It is roughly the midpoint of our holiday, and we are having a couple of very relaxed days in the Alps. For some reason I have been very tired today, and apart from wandering into the town to visit the supermarket, I've done very little. 

The Swan Whisperer walked up to investigate this clock tower

while I was shopping, and then we did very little until after lunch, when we finally got our act together. 

Unfortunately, when we were using the services, the cassette stuck, and the lever broke off! We thought for a few minutes we'd have to come straight home, but the SW has managed to work out how to get it out with the help of a screwdriver (that sounds like some awful schoolboy joke), and it should be fine until we get home.

We only had about 50 km to drive today, if that. This Camping-Car Park is a lot busier than last night's, but by no means full! Its big disadvantage is that there is no shade other than that provided by the motor homes themselves, but we put our chairs and table out and sat out to drink our tea. The SW went for an explore, but I stayed in and drowsed a bit.

We are planning to stay here tomorrow night, too, and I hope and expect to feel up for a walk as we are near a lake, almost a sort of beach resort! I want to explore at least a bit.