German Avenue Road, 22 September

Although we still have two more and three  more nights to go, they will basically just be "driving days", to get us home. 

We have finished the Avenue Road, from its start on Rügen Island, in the Baltic, I it's end on Riechenau Island, in the Bodensee (Lake Constance). 1,255 miles in all, plus the 800-odd miles to get to Lauterbach and, I assume, another 800 miles to get home. But it was the Avenue Road we wanted to follow, and follow it we did. I'd like to last the states we went in, but can't find a map of them! From the north-east to the south-west of the country, beautiful little towns, towns which were once border towns but are now as central as you can get. We've travelled past vast fields - former collective farms - and past vineyards and, today, apple orchards. We've seen how little villages celebrate the start of the wine harvest and drunk several bottles of "Federweißer", the young wine of the country dry has to be kept cool and upright, and you mustn't tighten the lid of the bottles!

Today was the last day of the Road, and we started with a walk round Riedlingen, then visited a Rewe for a Last Shop in Germany (the supermarkets are closed on Sundays), and a DM as I've fallen in love with their own brand moisturiser!  Then we followed the Road all the way, including across the ferry to Konstanz, and have found a lovely secluded place to park up for the night. The SW has, of course, gone for a walk!

German Avenue Road, 21 September

We were not sure this morning whether it had rained in the night or whether it was falling leaves. In fact it turned out to be sycamore seeds which fell down from the roof on to the windscreen wipers every time we moved off for a while.

The Swan Whisperer went for a short run this morning, and then got breakfast. This was a mistake (not his cooking - the poached eggs were perfect!) as he forgot to tell me we had run out of eggs so when I went shopping at the local Rewe I didn't buy any! So we stopped there and I made him get them, before we headed to Tübingen, and then on to Schloß Lichtenstein, where we had lunch, and finally down the Avenue Road to Riedlingen where we are spending our penultimate night in Germany. Tomorrow we will be on the Bodensee, then two long days driving and home on Tuesday morning. It has been a lovely trip.

German Avenue Road, 20 September

I was really disappointed to discover that the town of Neustadt an der Weinstraße, despite its lovely name, was not a pretty town at all! There were a couple of churches near the aire, which we went to have a look at and a bakery which I bought rolls, and then a Rewe, Lidl and Ali which I went to the latter of.

One look at the proposed route today convinced me that if we were to go on the Avenue Road at all, it would only be for a token distance. We still stayed on minor roads, mostly the Weinstraße, and stopped just outside Landau in die Pfalz for lunch and just outside Gaggenau for a cup of tea, passing through Karlsrühe en route.  It was a lovely drive especially as we are on the edge of the Black Forest here.

I had planned for us to stay outside a hotel which let one park up for free if you had a meal there, but the car park was full and there didn't seem to be anywhere reserved for motor homes so we came back into town and have parked up in the municipal aire which is free and has services. It seems very nice.

German Avenue Road, 19 September

Only a short drive today. We were woken up, as threatened, in the wee small hours by the grape harvesters - mechanical, these days, not students - going out and fully-laden trailers reappearing. But we went back to sleep and even though the Swan Whisperer went for a run, we were away by 10:00. The drive was partly down the Alleestraße and partly down the Weinstraße (do they overlap?) first going slightly all round the houses and having to reset the Sat-nav at one stage as it had defaulted to a route we didn't want! 

We wanted to stop in Bad Durkheim for lunch, but it was a bit of a bust as we had just missed the wine fair but the big car park was still full of vans. Then the restaurant which had had Federweißer a couple of years ago didn't have it and the food wasn't very good. Oh well. 

Now we are at Neustadt an der Weinstraße, within spitting distance of an Aldi and a Rewe and the SW has gone to explore, but we don't know whether it is a nice place or not.

German Avenue Road, 18 September

This morning we were rather alarmed to see that almost every other motor home had left the site by about 10:00, and wondered whether the owners wanted it cleared, but there was still one other machine there, so we went into Limburg and had a lovely walk through this very pretty town, including a visit to Woolworth's, which shocked us by having Christmas decorations already for sale - it isn't even October!

Back at the van, another machine came in and, after all I said yesterday they were English, although I gather they lived in Penang, and were headed to Brisbane after their European trip!

We decided to abandon the Alleestraße after only a token stretch in favour of driving along the Rhein, and that was lovely. It is still very hot - even overnight and this morning it wasn't exactly cold - and we enjoyed a ferry crossing at St Gaur. I thought I had mis-set the sat nav when we got here, just outside Bad Kreuznach, but just as we were about to go sadly away, we saw the signpost telling us where to go. We are in the yard of a vineyard and have been warned that the grapes will be brought in at an unearthly hour of the morning because of the heat!

German Avenue Road, 17 September

The SW went for a run this morning, and then after breakfast I went to the Norma across the road to shop and then did a scrap of washing, as he said his running shirt needed it, and he didn't have quite enough pants to finish the holiday. And the forecast is for it to be very hot over the next few days, I also washed the one light pair of trousers I have that don't  need ironing, in case it is still too hot for jeans by the weekend. Mind you, it's bitterly cold in the early mornings, and I am thankful for my bed jacket while I am drinking my tea, and for my bathrobe to dress under when I have had my shower. We haven't yet switched the heating on first thing, but it's been close!

I really haven't felt up to much exercise today, so we drive through Fulda, and I took a couple of photos out of the window, and then we had a very complicated drive to Limburg an der Lahn, trying to stay on the avenue route, which the SW calls the "Alley Way" ("Alleenstraße", you see), but not really succeeding. Despite an ice-cream break mid-afternoon, we were both tired when we got here. And the place I thought I'd found us to stay turned out to be outside a motorhome dealers outside of town - wonderful c you were just passing through, but no good for this sort of trip. However, we knew we'd seen signs for an aire, and duly found it on Park4Night, so now we are parked beside a tributary of the Lahn, not far from the town. The SW, who has been for a walk, says it is wonderful and he reckons the reason it's not in the guide books is that the Germans want to keep it for themselves!  Not that we've actually seen any other British tourists since Hamburg, and few of any nationality other than German! This will change, of course, as we get further south.

German Avenue Road, 16 September

Another lazy Sunday morning. We decided to go to the automobile museum, which was just across the road from where we had parked, and it was very interesting, telling the story of the motor industry in Eisenach from its earliest beginnings right through to the modern Opels made in an out-of-town factory. They decided, I think, that the factory of which the museum is the only bit that remains could not be made state-of-the-art post-reunification, so they tore it down and started again.

But while it existed, the factory built all sorts of cars. The most interesting, of course, were the little 2-stroke Wartburgs, built during the DDR years (you can always tell a former East German town as they have those very splendid "Ampelmänner" on their traffic lights.

Anyway after leaving the factory we used the services we had found last night and then  headed on, leaving Thuringia for Hesse and the town of Fulda where we are parked up opposite a Norma, which will be useful for the morning. Except what we really need is more Federweißer, dvd the discounters tend not to sell it. Never mind, there is always beer!

German Avenue Road, 15 September

I don't seem to have taken any photos today. We started off by going to Edeka, as we were running out of everything, and tomorrow is Sunday when the supermarkets are closed.

Where we were, Duderstadt, appears to be in the exact centre of Germany, from north to south and from east to west. But thirty years ago it was a very different story, as Duderstadt was right on the border with the DDR. In fact a major crossing was built there in 1972, which saw over 6 million people use it during its lifetime. And one of the buildings is now a museum about the "Inner Border" and life on the frontier.

It was really fascinating; lots of stuff not only about the border but about how it was strengthened over time and how one village realised they were going to be deported once the 5km exclusion zine was put in force, so, led by their Priest, they escaped in the dead of night. They were not very happy, missing their farms and so on, but preferred life in the West to the East. The village has since been re-established. There was a lot of stuff about the events of 1989, and reunification. Fascinating!

By the time we had finished, it was lunch time. We did look in the snack bar, but it was very greasy spoon so we didn't.

We then tried to drive to Eisenach, where we thought we could park up in a museum car park but we had trouble getting there due to closed roads and then when we did, the museum car park was a bust and the official aire was full. But we have found somewhere, although this is a dull town and we will not linger.

German Avenue Road, 14 September

Today we are approximately half way through our holiday, so we spent the first hour or so changing the sheets (and, incidentally, discovering we had packed the wrong undersheet for the second week. We also had trouble finding the clean table napkins I'd washed earlier, but they eventually turned up in the bag with our swimming things instead of the bag where they live. This morning also involved frantic counting of shirts and pants, to see whether we had enough of each to do us, and a quick hand wash of pants and table napkins, the latter in case of spilled coffee or other such emergency.

Once this was done, we set off to explore Quedlinburg, and after a very pleasant walk round the town (including buying a new sheet) and a cup of coffee/ice cream /apple strudel, we found  that the little tourist "train" was about  to leave, and it was only €6.50 for a 45-minute tour, so I suggested we take it. I'm glad we did, although neither of us understood much of the commentary. Nevertheless it really did take us all round the town.

Then back to the motor home, and after a very light lunch we set off again. We decided to temporarily abandon the Avenue Road in favour of a glorious run through the Harz Mountains National Park including a stop for a cup of tea in one of the many car parks along the route. We have ended up here, in a town called Duderstadt (so unfortunate, as the poor cars all bear the registration "Dud"), which is very, very close to the former border, and there is a museum which we think we might visit tomorrow.

German Avenue Road, 13 September

After yesterday, which was a lovely warm day - to the extent that we put on sun cream to walk round Brandenburg, and I, at least, wore a hat - today was  bitterly cold. The Swan Whisperer went for a run, and we didn't hurry over breakfast, or getting services. Everything was provided, but we couldn't find anybody to pay, so eventually had to leave without.

We drove to various little towns which were supposed to be lovely, but weren't, really. Or if they were, we couldn't find the lovely bits! So when we reached Quedlinburg, which we know is lovely - we have  been here before - we decided to call it a day and have parked up in an aire near the town centre. I had a bad headache so didn't feel up to a walk, but lay down to try to sleep it off, not very successfully, while the SW explored, and we are looking forward to further exploration tomorrow.

On the plus side, I finally scored some Schwäbische Maultaschen (a filled pasta) which we had for supper with a sauce Forestière and green beans. Followed by stewed plums and yoghurt. Yum.

German Avenue Road, 12 September

This morning we walked round Brandenburg. Well, perhaps not all of it, but certainly round the Cathedral Island, the New Town and the Old Town! Lots of churches, including a very splendid Evangelical Free Church that was shaped to resemble Noah's Ark.

Also a modern shopping centre, which we looked round, and very noisy cobbled streets. I was glad I didn't live there - the traffic noise must be horrendous!

We got a bit stuck then, as after coffee it was time to move on and the card didn't work, and there was no one on duty to let us out! Fortunately we didn't have to wait too long! How we got in last night we'll never know, unless the guardian saw us and raised the barrier without our realising. He obviously thinks it's time the PTB modernised their arrangements, too. But it was a lovely aire, even though services were somewhat lacking for €10. Walking distance to the city centre, and there was a bus if we'd wanted it, has to be good.

So we headed on, stopping at an out--of-town supermarket and having lunch in its car park, and then down the Avenue Road to Wittemberg, now rather grandly known as Lutherstadt-Wittemberg. No place to stop there as the centre is pedestrianised and time was getting on, so we went on down the road to Dessau, where the aire is in the local aerodrome. Fully serviced, too! Only thing is we are low on gas, but it is our small cylinder that is nearly out, not the big one,and we have plenty.

German Avenue Road, 11 September

Rheinsberg, it turns out it's such a pretty little holiday town; we had been too anxious to notice this last night. But we liked it.

First stop today, though was a little town called Gransee - we didn't  see the eponymous lake - which had spent the first 20 years of reunification in restoring itself and was very proud of the result. With good reason! The heart of the town was a tiny grid of streets, with a tower to guard the entrance, city walls (we didn't have time to walk round them, alas) and a very pretty church, with a former Franciscan monastery, in the throes of being restored but with an exhibition about the building. While in the town we scored some plums (now plum compote) and some local honey which the woman who sold it to me said came from her father's bees and was linden blossom honey. Also delicious Federweiße, the young wine which you mustn't tighten the top of. Love that stuff!

After visiting Aldi for more prosaic groceries, we drove down to a town called Neuruppen, simply because it was en route, and then set sail for Brandenburg, stopping a couple of times. We had heard that the aire here - which is lovely - only took EC cards, and the emergency button we pressed answered with a long string of numbers - obviously a number to call but my German really isn't up to phone calls. But the SW's card used to be an EC one, so we tried it and, to our surprise, it worked!

He went for a walk while I dealt with the plums, and tomorrow we will explore the town together.

German Avenue Road, 10 September

The Swan Whisperer announced that we were going to retrace our steps this morning to visit the Hanseatic Town of Greifwald, so after stopping at Demain to shop and to catch up once we had decent phone signals, we headed there and I'm glad we did as it was very pretty. We had lunch there, and then a walk and visited the Cathedral of St Nicholas. The guidebook said it was disappointing inside, but we loved it. Very plain and grey, and beautiful. I didn't take a photo as you had to pay to do that.

Then I stopped off at the local pound shop (euro shop, really) and bought a couple of egg spoons, and by the time I got back to the motor home, the Swan Whisperer has programmed the satnav, but I am not sure what had gone wrong but it kept on not going where he thought it was going and madpanicarrgh, and it took forever to arrive at where we thought we were going to spend the night, but no sign of the place, and we were very nearly out of diesel, so we had to retrace our steps and it was very expensive when we finally found some. But we did, and then we found a camp site by a lake, which is lovely. Rheinberg, that's the name of the place.

German Avenue Road, 9 September

We have very little signal here, so although I'm writing this on the date stated, it won't be posted until I have 4G again.

The weather here is lovely now; we hope we've seen the last of the rain for the time being. The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and after a rather late breakfast, we went for a walk around Lauterbach. We had discovered last night that there was a narrow-gauge steam railway - we had both heard the train although neither of us had seen it - but when we got to the station we found there was a special service running because of an Iron Man event based at Binz, and the dreaded words "replacement bus service" were used. So we came away and walked a little further round the harbour, wishing (at least I was) that we had had breakfast somewhat earlier so we could have enjoyed coffee and/or an ice cream at one of the many cafés dotted about the place.

We had hoped to drive up to one of the official starts of the Avenue Road - there are three on Rügen Island - but the Iron Man put paid to that, so instead we drove to the little village of Wreechen which seemed to be all thatched houses, and then back to Putbus, where we saw some of the cyclists in the Iron Man, and then drive down to Stralsund. Unfortunately, the Sat-nav took us on the main road, but it didn't really matter. It is a gorgeous bridge - I'd been asleep when we crossed it yesterday. Into Stralsund where we found a parking place and had lunch, and then we drove on down the Avenue Road, so pretty, until we got to our current overnight place, by a lake in a hamlet called Meesiger.

German Avenue Road, 7and 8 September

Friday 7 September

I had a feeling all wasn't quite right when I went to the little supermarket near where we had  been staying, and couldn't see anything I fancied to eat. I knew we had enough food to do us, so came away without buying anything but by the time we got to Hamburg, all I wanted was my bed! No excursions no visiting the city, no photos, no lunch, no dinner.... Just sleep and horrid fever-dreams. The Swan Whisperer went out, of course, but oh, what a waste of a day!

Saturday 8 September

Felt a lot better this morning, and was able to eat some breakfast and go round a supermarket, but that was about as much as I was able for. Fortunately, it was a "driving day", so I didn't have to!  We made a detour into Lübeck, such a pretty town, and found a parking-place to have lunch in, and then headed on for the Baltic Coast and the start of the Deutsches Alleenstraße. Unfortunately, we chose not to believe the Sat-nav when it wanted to route us off the motorway and got held up for a couple of hours by a series of accidents and road works. But we got here in the end - rather a lovely place called Putbus - including a short drive along the Avenue Route, which looks as though it is going to be very pretty. Then the SW went for an explore - he says that we and the motor home next to ours are the only two without satellite dishes. I had been thinking, in Hamburg, that I hadn't seen so many so far this holiday.

German Avenue Road, 6 September

We were woken up a couple of times by mosquitos in the night, and at 06:00 decided we were thirsty so made tea and turned the hot water on. So we were up at 07:00 and, despite doing a little washing and using the services again, we were away just after 09:00. We decided to drive over the Afsluitdijk that separates the North Sea from the Ijselmeer, although it was too wet, gloomy and misty to see much. You can't see the North Sea at all as the dyke is too high. Half way over, or windscreen wiper decided to break again, so we had to stop to make running repairs with a bit of duct tape. 

We were fortunate that the first auto parts repair place we found was able to fit new wipers on the spot - it took longer to pay for them than the repair itself took, so we were not badly held up. We enjoyed our drive across the Netherlands, a land where field are bordered with wide ditches/narrow canals instead of fences. There were few crops - a few fields of maize and we saw one of sunflowers, but mostly animals - cattle, sheep, goats, a few horses and once, improbably, camels!

I dozed off and missed the crossing into Germany, but we are parked up in a small and rather popular aire in the village of Jade. The SW has spent most of the time hunting mosquitos, although he did go out for a short run. I have new books on my Kindle and have been reading and knitting.

German Avenue Road, 5 September

In the night it started to rain. And rain. And rain.  We spent most of the morning reading and dozing, waiting for the train to stop, and as it didn't, we went out about noon.

We decided to go via bus and metro across the Ij, and while we were at it, to go one stop further to Rokin, in the city centre. But hang on, which city are we in? Here we have a Body Shop, a Waterstones, a Primark, H&M, Hema.... We could have been in Clapham Junction! 

However, w there was also a specialist cheese shop which we obstacle and bought cheese at. - probably a tourist rip-off, but you know what? I don't care! 

And then we found a Dutch restaurant in a side street that fed us croquettes and chips; the latter were lovely, the former a bit meh! It came with some apple sauce, which I kept 2/3 of to eat as pudding, but the SW had apple pie and ice cream. He drank hot chocolate, and I had a beer and then coffee, but the place to take care of the inevitable consequences was up three flights of incredibly steep stairs - proof that it was an authentic old house, said the SW. 

After lunch we caught a tram to the Dam, and looked at the royal Palace and then walked back tu the Centraal station. We had vaguely meant to go to the Red light district, but seem to have missed it. Oh well. Anyway it was going on raining and raining and the rain got heavier and heavier, so we went down and exchanged our canal trip vouchers for real tickets and went on a canal trip. Which would have been lovely, had one actually been able to see! However, the rain stopped about half way through and we could open the windows and see out. 

We had hoped that the tour would take us past the Anne Frank House but that particular tour didn't go that way. So when it was over, we took a tram to the Westernmarkt and had a look. No possibility of going in, of course, and we didn't plan to, but we walked up to the next bridge across the canal and back the other side. A quick stop at a convenient supermarket, and then it was back in the tram to Centraal. We were going to catch a ferry back to the so nearest the campsite, but had just missed one, but I remembered that one of "our" buses card at where the next ferry was going, so we went on it. We were right about the buses, but what we didn't realise was that buses going in both directions used the same stop, so the inevitable happened and we got on one going the wrong way.

Once we realised this, we got off and, of course, just missed one going the right way. The next one wasn't for 15 minutes, but there was a supermarket across the road and the one thing we hadn't bought was beer, so we went into the attached offie and bought 2 bottles of Amstel and 2 of Heineken, incredibly cheap. And then the bus came, although it was on diversion due to building works, it dropped us where we expected to be dropped. Back to the motor home, used the services and supper is ready.

German Avenue Road, 4 September

Google told me there was a supermarket only a few yards from where we had parked up last night, so after breakfast I popped in, following Google.'s directions to get there. What Google didn't tell me, and I only found out when I'd finished my shopping and had left the supermarket, was that we were parked just opposite  the rear exit of the car park and I needn't have walked all round the houses at all! Ah well.

We set off about  09:30 and, apart from one stop for coffee and a detour for diesel before we reached the border - a mistake, as although we knew petrol was more expensive in the Netherlands, we didn't realise diesel was actually cheaper. Oh well.

The motor home park isn't the nicest, or the cheapest, but is secure and has services, although no sanitaires. We paid for 48 hours, and I wish we hadn't, as I find the city not at all to my taste. Just walking to the ferry, it was all hippyish and really rather hideous. Then we caught the wrong ferry and had to walk miles to a bus stop. Meanwhile, I had tried to buy transport tickets on line, but what we didn't realise was that what they sent me wasn't a ticket but a voucher to exchange for a ticket. So when service after service turned us away, we quite thought we'd been scammed.  Which I suppose wasn't the city's fault, but it didn't help. 

We eventually ended up in the Nieuwmarkt, where we had a beer, but even that was silly, because the waitress insisted in bringing us 250 mls when we had asked for 330, and even when we showed her on the menu she swore they didn't sell that size of beer.

We walked back to the Central Station and got the ferry back, and it was during the crossing we realised the problem with the tickets. So back we went and then queued for half an hour in the ticket office before finally getting our tickets!  So we went back to the motor home and the Swan Whisperer cooked eggs and bacon and now I am going to bed.

German Avenue Road, 3 September

We are several days from the start of the featured route of this holiday, but as it is much cheaper to cross after 16:00, we have not got very far yet.

I was spending the night with my parents, and at breakfast my father reminded us that today is the 79th anniversary of the day the Second World War started. He was only a schoolboy then, but he said he couldn't wait to leave and join up. He did join the Home Guard, and did dawn patrols, so he told us, and, of course, later he did join up, and was recently awarded the Légion d'Honneur as a Normandy veteran.

After breakfast I got a very crowded train to London - the first off-peak I've of the week - and bought sandwiches, etc, in Prêts so that we didn't have to think about lunch, which we ate fairly last thing before leaving at about 13:30.

The journey to Folkestone was uneventful - at least. I assume it was as I slept a lot of the way - as was the crossing. A quick dash round Carrefour to get one or two basics, and then we drive up to here, which is about half way between Bruges and Ostend. Now getting supper, including delicious home-grown beans, and then I expect there will be an early night before heading to Amsterdam in the morning.

The Museum of Jewish Life and the Regent's Canal

This will be the last museum visit of the holidays, as the Boy appears to be museumed out!  Don't blame him.... however, his mother suggested we take them to the Jewish Museum as there was an exhibition there about the life and work of Rene Goscinny, the co-creator of Asterix, and, of course, the Boy loves Asterix.  To the point that, uninterested in the displays, he sat down and read the various books on display, although he knows them well. 

I found the displays quite interesting - they were mostly about his life and early work, once he and Uderzo invented Asterix, he never looked back.  Of course, he also wrote the "Petit Nicolas" books, but they weren't mentioned. 

The display was on the top floor of the Jewish Museum; the displays further down were arguably more interesting; there were plenty of things for the children to do - a broken jug to reassemble, a game of snakes and ladders to play, and the Boy spent ages with an interactive display of Yiddish theatre.  Boy Two kept having to be reminded to use his indoor voice and not run, so I hope he wasn't too bored.  The curator tactfully steered them away from the displays about the Holocaust. The first floor of the museum was about Jewish faith and worship, and again there was plenty to interest the children, asking them to find the various animals on the menorahs, and so on.

When we had finished with the museum, it was just about lunch time, so we got our coats and bags back from the cloakroom - still wet; we had been caught in an extreme shower just after leaving the Underground - and walked up to Camden Lock market to choose street food.  Boy Two and the Swan Whisperer both chose burgers, and got a chips to share; the Boy chose a pizza with pepperoni on it, and I got a vegetarian pita bread - that stall was really nice as they had two vegetarian choices; one was mushrooms and halloumi, which I had (although it would have been nicer had the halloumi been crisper, but it was still tasty), and the other was hard-boiled egg and something.

After that, we each had a salted caramel mini-cupcake for pudding, and then we wandered through the market to the canal basin, where the water bus to Little Venice was waiting.  We were the only passengers!  It was a lovely run; the boys weren't quite as interested as I had hoped they would be, but they had workbooks to do, and they both enjoyed seeing wildlife, and the jackals in the zoo, which gratifyingly ran alongside the boat for the length of their cave!

 

When we arrived at Little Venice, we decided the easiest thing to do was to head to Farringdon, which is only about 15 minutes' walk from the Temple, and the boys' father met us there and took the boys back in charge, while we got the Thameslink home.

Fulham Palace and Bishop's Park

A hundred years ago - well, the best part of 50 years ago, anyway - when I first came to London, I lived in Fulham, but Fulham Palace, back then, was not open to the public - in fact, Bishops had only just stopped living there!  Bishop's Park was open, but who had time to go to parks without small children to amuse?

So neither the Swan Whisperer or I had ever been there, and we decided to take the boys there.  We picked them up from the Temple at about 10:30, and went straight to Putney Bridge on the District Line (blissful air-conditioned trains, lovely!).  There were an awful lot of steps down from Putney Bridge, which my knees didn't really like, but once we were down it was a lovely walk along the Thames Path.

When we arrived in the park, there was a large children's playground, which I think Boy 2 might have liked to have played in, but The Boy turned his nose up!  We walked round the lake, and across a bridge that Boy 2 described as "Ribenary", which wasn't a bad description, we didn't think.  The Boy was very disappointed to realise it was plastic, not real wood painted purple!

We spent a few minutes watching potential footballers training at Craven Cottage,

and then walked back to the Palace proper.  We went first of all into the Palace gardens where the boys enjoyed (typical small boys!) "picking the bishop's nose" - a carved wooden bishop, I hasten to add:

Then we walked round the walled gardens, and then it was time for lunch.  We went into the palace itself to enjoy the "Dining Room".  The children's menu was a choice of pizza or chicken goujons with baked beans - both boys chose the chicken, which also came with a small salad.  I thought they were rather optimistic, but in fact, Boy 2 ate all of his, and The Boy ate a good third of his.  Mind you, it did have a very sweet dressing (we finished The Boy's, as he didn't want it!).  I had a panini with mediterranean vegetables and hummus, and the SW had what was described as "The ulitmate" ham and cheese toastie, but frankly, that was an offence against the Trades Description act, as it looked very manky.  Then the boys and I had ice-cream, and the SW had a cup of coffee and a slice of cake. 

Then it went a bit pear-shaped, as we went into the museum, and enjoyed looking at some of the things, but then we needed the loo, so I took the boys while the SW went on looking round, but when we came back, we found the officious librarian had moved the scooters and was cross with us for bringing t hem in (though there was nowhere obvious to leave them).  So we came away, rather cross, although I felt we really hadn't seen much of what there was to see.

We cheered ourselves up, though, by a visit to All Saints Church at the entrance to the park, which was lovely.  But why do the boys have to remove their hats when they go into a church and I don't have to?  Not a question I could answer, but I still made them take their hats off!

And so we wandered back to the main road, and decided to get a bus to South Kensington to avoid the steps - just as well, as that part of the District Line promptly fell over - and so back to the Temple and a farewell to the boys.

The London Museum of Water and Steam

I had been wanting to visit this museum for some time, so the first day that we were on grandparent duty in the summer holidays it seemed like an obvious thing to do.

The museum is a few minutes' walk from Kew Bridge station, so, after picking the boys up at Senate House, we caught the 59 bus to Waterloo and then a blissful air-conditioned train to Kew Bridge.  Great giggles from the boys because the computer went pear-shaped and kept telling us we were heading back to Waterloo, and then when they did get it to go to Twickenham, they went the wrong way.... eventually the guard, or whatever they are called these days, had to take over!  But the train was lovely - seemed incredibly spacious, air-conditioned, and generally very nice.  Wish they'd had them when I was taking SW trains regularly!

So anyway, we arrived at the museum and paid our entry fee - two concessions and two kids, but the children were free.  Boy Two, who isn't quite five, would have been free anyway, but The Boy went free as a holiday concession.

We started off in the steam hall, which was quite interesting, but slightly, when you've seen one steam engine you've seen them all.  The history of the building was interesting, though, and we all loved a model which asked you to find the four cats who had lived in the pumping house back in the day - we found them all, even though, to scale, they were the size of ants!

We then moved off into the water area, which was much more interesting - at least, I found it so, and judging by the time they spent there, so did the boys.  It was basically the story of how we got the clean and safe water that today falls out of our taps, from the earliest beginnings of piped water into the home, via the Victorians and so on.  Ditto how the waste was got rid of, and when they began to separate the two.  There were also free water-saving devices on offer, and a card game (which I meant to give the boys before they left, but forgot), and a free chilled water dispenser (you could buy a reusable bottle if you didn't have one, but we all did).  There were also life-sized sewers for the children to crawl into, and handles to pump to move water, and all sorts.  We spent a long time there, but finally moved on to the outdoor "splash zone", which was terrific fun - lots of interactive water play, including one exhibit that both boys loved, where by dint of judiciously placing barriers, you could divert the flow of water to one waterwheel or another, or none. 

Eventually, though, we got hungry and headed to the café for lunch.  The boys each chose an enormous ham and cheese baguette - Boy Two only managed half of his - and we chose quiche, which was lovely, but I'd have liked some salad with it.  Then we each had an ice, and then the boys played with a huge Brio railway layout (they've nearly given up playing with it at home, go figure) while we watched and probably dozed, and then decided to call it a museum and head home. 

Lambeth Country Show

This year is the 44th Lambeth Country Show, apparently.  We hadn't been for several years, but certainly went every year earlier in our married life - it was one of the Great Unmissables.  In recent years, though, either we had got more staid, or it had got less fun, I don't know, but we hadn't been for some time.  And once the Tour de France had finished for the day, we were both fidgety and wanted exercise, so we decided to go down for the last couple of hours of the first day.

This year, for the first time, they had erected a perimeter fence and required security checks on entering.  You couldn't take a full water bottle in, but you could take a bottle and fill it from one of the many standpipes dotting the grounds.  And you couldn't take in your own alcohol, which has apparently led to much grumbling, quite why when it's not actually necessary to drink to enjoy yourself, I haven't quite worked out.  There were plenty of beer tents, although the product wasn't cheap (would you expect it to be?  Apparently!).  The entrances were huge, and plenty of room so we didn't have to queue for security checks at all.

Actually, there seemed at first to be more loos than anything else, but as you walked further into the site, you saw more and more of the food and drink tents, and then the various shops and charity tents, and so on.

There seems to be much more of it than there used to be, despite the adult fun fair not coming any more (there were plenty of rides and slides and things, though).  The farm section was still there, with birds of prey

and sheep

among others.  Including most of the animals from Vauxhall City Farm, which were as delightful as ever, including 3 alpacas. 

If I had been by myself, I'd have spent a lot longer looking at the various shops and stalls, but of course the Swan Whisperer doesn't really care for that sort of thing.  However, by then it was 7:00 pm so we decided to eat there, and then have our usual Saturday sausages and mash tomorrow.  There was no shortage of choice when it came to food - I had a plateful of Moroccan tagine (vegan),

and the Swan Whisperer had a cheese sausage with sauerkraut from the German stall.  He had wanted the Currywurst, but they had run out.  And we had been going to have an ice cream for pudding, but just as we got ready for that, the van closed up its windows.  It was quite nearly closing time by then, though.

We decided to leave from the Herne Hill exit, on the grounds that the buses would be less full there.  We did just miss a 37, but there wasn't long to wait before the next one, and we were able to get on and get a seat very easily, which was not true by the time it got to Brixton Water Lane!  I don't know what crowds can have been like these past few years, as the place was heaving while we were there, and there were masses of people coming to and from the site on foot (when it was smaller, they provided a car park, but they don't any more as they want, sensibly, to discourage people from using cars when it's not necessary; plus it was horrible for the grass if it was a wet year). 

It was a very enjoyable late afternoon/early evening outing.  But I've done it for this year, and don't want to go back tomorrow, particularly!

RAF Centenary Celebrations

We knew there was to be a flypast today, to celebrate the centenary of the RAF.  Of course, it had existed in other forms - notably as the Royal Flying Corps - for some years before then; my great-uncle, Michael Topham, had been a member and had been killed in April 2017, flying back from a raid near Lens, in France.  His name is on the RFC memorial in Arras cemetery.

However, today was about the RAF.  We hadn't realised there was to be a service in Westminster Abbey, and turned the television on just in time to see the Queen coming out of it, looking as though she ought to be using a walking stick but didn't quite like to in public.  We watched the parade and so on for a bit, trying to decide where best we could go to see the flypast, and finally decided that, if possible, we would get a 59 bus to Waterloo Bridge and watch from there, as it was recommended as a good place to see it from.

Because we thought the traffic might be terrible, we left longer than necessary and arrived at Waterloo Bridge with a good 15 minutes to spare.  It was already busy, and got busier! 

The flypast started punctually, and we enjoyed watching the planes come past, although we weren't quite sure which was what.  Chinook helicopters are fairly obvious, of course.

as are the bomber/fighter formation that we so often see at these things:

The flypast continued, with various aircraft past and present, concluding with some wonderful formation flying

 the last of which got a huge cheer.  But the largest cheer was reserved for the very last formation - the beloved Red Arrows:

It took a long time to get off the bridge after they had gone past, but eventually we managed to walk down to Waterloo Station and a much-needed sandwich in Pret a Manger before heading home!

Stoupa Reunion, 1 July

And so the last day of the holiday dawned.  Our coach was due to pick us up at noon, which gave us time to pack and to have a last coffee with our friends.

We ended up waiting 25 minutes for the coach, as they said to be ready 10 minutes in advance, and the coach was 15 minutes late, apparently looking for a couple who had decided to take a taxi to the airport and hadn't bothered to say so.

The so-called "priority booking" channel took ages, but at least they didn't print our boarding-passes again, deeming the ones on my phone were enough.  Security was very quick - I had put all my liquids in a plastic bag, but didn't have time to get them out of my rucksack, and they didn't ask me to!

We boarded the plane 15 minutes late.  Not bad.  But then we sat, and sat, and sat, and the Captain came on the PA to say he was very sorry but one of the computers was down and he'd sent for the engineer to come and fix it.  But when that happened, the other computer went down.... at which point, they said we could get off the plane if we would like, and go back to the terminal, which many people did - the seats there were more comfortable and we could buy sandwiches.  I must shout out the staff in the café - they must have hoped their working day was almost over, but instead they stayed on and made sandwiches for everybody as fast as they could  Very impressive!

Finally, we were called back on to the plane (loud cheers), and eventually it actually moved (even more cheers).  After that, it was straightforward - we arrived at Gatwick at about 9:30 pm local time, and there was the usual lengthy queue for  passport control.  But they have now made this automatic - you put your passport down on the scanner, and look at the screen, and they match them up and you walk straight through.  We waited 10 minutes for a train to Clapham Junction, and then ordered an Uber to take us home, and were home almost exactly 2 hours after arriving at Gatwick.  We did a minimum of unpacking, and flopped into bed, exhausted! 

Stoupa Reunion, 30 June

Sadly, after the delights of yesterday I found myself too exhausted to move today, and ended up doing nothing but lounging around the apartment, apart from a trip to the bakery to get sandwiches for lunch and one to the supermarket to get sausages for supper.

But yesterday was worth ask the exhaustion and discomfort of today!

Stoupa Reunion, 29 June

For once, the sun was shining when we left the apartment to join our friends at the car hire place for a trip to Ancient Messina. There were 9 of us, and we had a lovely day wandering round the site  I was amused when we realised we were all old enough for the senior discount - one does not think of a group of school friends as senior citizens but of course we all are.

After walking round the site we went to a cafe in the village and ate salad (the food here is so delicious, much nicer than I expected), and then went to the tiny museum associated with the site which was mostly statues (usually headless) that had been discovered there.

By the time we got back to Stoupa, including  a photograph stop at a lookout point

there was just time to have a beer and a shower before another communal meal, this time in the Kalogria Beach Hotel. And more farewells and promises to meet again, for although many of us don't leave until Sunday, others are leaving today.

Stoupa Reunion, 28 June

The Swan Whisperer went for a short run this morning, but by breakfast time it was pouring again so we had a quiet morning.

Then we walked over to the Kalogria Beach Hotel to join friends for lunch - I had calamari again, and too much beer (Greek beer is very more-ish) - which took up most of the afternoon, somehow.

And so back to the apartment for a siesta while the SW went for a walk, and then it was time to change into our glad rags and head over to the Enigma bar for the main dinner and drinks of the reunion, the centrepiece of the event.

We ate, we drank, we (or some of us) danced, we talked... And, sadly, said our first goodbyes to those who are moving on tomorrow....

Stoupa Reunion, 27 June

The Swan Whisperer had been going to go for a run this morning, but it poured, so he didn't. We had arranged  to hire a car, so he went and got it and we were away by 09:45.  We were headed to Sparta. The Sat-nav said it was far quicker to go up the motorway and dien the other side, but the cross - country road said no tolls, and we didn't fancy motorway tolls so went on this horrible, horrible road with hairpin bends everywhere, worse than the road between Die and the Vercors, worse even than that road in the Dolomites!

The Sat-nav took us to the wrong entrance to ancient Sparta and  by the time we got there it s raining again and lunch time and the SW, who had a quick look, said he really thought one would learn more from Wikipedia.  So we came away and found a cafė where we had a delicious lunch and then came home not over the mountains - I slept most of the way.

In the evening it was the first of the two official reunions, at our friend's house. It had stopped raining by then and we had a very pleasant evening with food, drink, and Greek dancers who performed traditional dances from all over Greece. And lots of chat with friends....

Stoupa Reunion, 26 June

The weather forecast, which has been predicting rain and storms ever since we got here, finally got it right and it rained on and off most of the day. And I stupidly took an anti-histamine this morning - I bought the Boots ones didn't affect me but I was obviously wrong - and ended up sleeping most of the afternoon. So rather a nothing day.

ETA It would, of course, have helped if I hadn't accidentally bought Loritidine tablets from Boots - I know Loritidine knock me out.... thought they were the other kind.

Stoupa Reunion, 25 June

I slept incredibly badly!  I was too hot, it was either too dark (with the bathroom light off) or too bright (with it on). And I can't tell you how loudly the Swan Whisperer snored! I have moved back into the main room where one can keep the porch light on but there are curtains, and I can close the door between me and him.

I suppose I finally got to sleep as it was getting light, and had a severe headache when I woke. I knew I needed a quiet day, so after breakfast I slept for a bit and then took myself for a luxurious potter round the supermarket. Forgot to buy cheese, but got the makings of ratatouille and dinner ham and salami, etc, which we had for lunch.

Then after another siesta, we went down to the beach and had a dip in the sea, and an ice cream, and then walked slowly back a different way. And soon it was wine o'clock, And we drank a whole bottle with our dinner - I think (and hope)  I shall sleep well tonight!

Stoupa Reunion, 24 June

This holiday is a little different from our normal one, as we are in Stoupa, Greece, for a reunion of some members of the class of 1970 and their spouses, if applicable.

We were up at a disgraceful hour this morning, and took an Uber to Clapham Junction and then a train to Gatwick. We met up with a few people who were on the same flight, but didn't sit with them. The flight to Kalamata was an hour late, but we took off in the end and it was very smooth and uneventful, just a bit bumpy coming down through clouds.

Then a long coach trip across the mountains, during which the holiday rep would not stop talking! And then to our very nice apartment in Stoupa..

After unpacking we walked to the supermarket - only a few minutes away - and then down to the beach and along a bit to where we were meeting the others for a drink and a meal, which was very good. - I think the beer hissed going down - while  we caught up on tales of the Dear Old School and so on. And then a walk back with a friend who has taken an apartment next door, and a night which, although it isn't late by UK time, is definitely late enough for me!

The Rounders Match

There wasn't intended to be a rounders match.  We were just taking the motorhome for its annual MOT and service, but then the parents and sister were all going to watch my youngest niece play in a rounders tournament and suggested we go, too.  We agreed, with the caveat that if the garage phoned to say the motor home was ready, we would head off.  As it turned out, they didn't ring until much later in the day.

My brother had said that the afternoon's matches were due to start at 1:30, and it was not much past that when the cavalcade arrived, the wheelchair rolled down the slope, and we joined my brother and his wife and the other assorted parents to watch the match.

The school is in a wonderful setting, nestled into the Downs, very beautiful and probably totally lost on the children! This was the finals of some kind of tournament, and the school had already lost one match that morning, so were in the playoff for the Bronze medal.

When we arrived, the match was just starting, and the visiting school was batting.  My brother was explaining the rules to my parents, and exactly why the girl in question had or had not run.  It is well over half a century since I last played rounders, and I was glad to be reminded of the rules.  I'm always impressed how anybody manages to hit that very hard ball with such a narrow bat (for American readers, about the same size and weight as a baseball ball and bat); I never could. 

Visiting school was finally out for 4 1/2 rounders, and then Our School went into bat.  The niece didn't particularly cover herself with glory, but played competently enough.  The last girl left in, though, managed to score three rounders single-handed, to massive cheers from her cohorts and the assembled parents, and the half-time score was 9-4.5. 

After a break for drinks and reapplying of suncream (both unheard of during matches when I was a girl - you got a segment of orange to suck if you were lucky, as it was thought that if you drank during exertion you would feel sick, and the importance of proper hydration hadn't yet been realised; as for sunscreen, I don't think it had even been invented!), it was time for the second innings.  All was going well when, just at the end, disaster struck - there was a serious collision which resulted in a girl on our side's being hit very hard on the back of her head with a bat.  The poor child who had done it trotted over to apologise profusely - it had been a total accident, everybody agreed on that - but the child was out of the match, and the substitute had already been substituted once as she had a strained and obviously painful leg.  The team was badly shaken by this, and although they vowed to go and win it "for her", they couldn't get past it, and, sadly, it was all over very quickly with only 2 or 3 of the 8 rounders they had needed to win being scored.  Great was the disappointment, and a fair few tears were shed - adrenaline crash, mostly, I suspect.  I know the feeling all too well.

But, despite the disappointing result, it was an enjoyable way to spend a warm summer afternoon.

Photo: Maggie Wright

Living History weekend at the Weald and Downland Museum

We hadn't been to the Weald and Downland Museum for years, and as this weekend was the Living History weekend, we decided to visit it on our way back from dropping the motor home in Sussex.  We were rather later than we meant to be, but arrived there about 13:30.  The first annoyance was that we were parked miles and miles from the entrance, but there was a buggy that kindly gave us a lift to it, so we didn't have to walk for miles before we got there.  Then we realised that, as it had been cool and cloudy when we left London, we didn't have sun-hats with us and only had a tiny bit of sun cream.  And it was hot and sunny, and hats would have been rather a necessity.  Sadly, the only ones on sale were either incredibly expensive or for children, so we had to do without.

We bought ourselves a venison burger for lunch (judging by the state of my insides this evening, this may have been a mistake), and then wandered off to see what we could see.  It was basically Re-enactor Heaven, including jousting, demonstrations of weapons from the Mediaeval period, and a great many crafts people, some of whom were better at talking about their work than others.  There was a fascinating man who made nets - I am not sure what period he was supposed to be, and didn't quite like to ask - and another woman who demonstrated 15th century food.

We ended up watching "Sir John Paston" have his dinner - ridiculously over-formal for Paston, who was, after all, only a jumped-up merchant.  Plus the squires were far too old - they would have been boys and young men not quite old enough to be knights.  But it gave a good impression of what it might have been like, although I think the women did eat with the men, at least at the high table, and there would have been lower tables where his people would have eaten.

Once that was over, it was almost the end of the afternoon, so we treated ourselves to an ice-cream and then the Swan Whisperer went to get the car, and we drove back to London via the A285 and A3, enjoying the sight of cricket matches on the village greens we passed - proper white flannels, not the pyjamas that international cricketers seem to wear these days!

Beer and Castles Tour, The End

And so we awoke, once again, in the car park at the Cité Europe.  As soon as we'd had breakfast, I rushed into Carrefour for some last-minute shopping, and while I was there went to get a second token for the trolley - they turned out to be free!  Imagine that, Tesco's!  And so while I was there I asked about the loyalty card you need to use the Scan 'n' Shop facility there, and the extremely nice woman set me up for it then and there, so I was able to use it for my shopping!  Of course, it was checked (mine always is, largely because our local Tesco doesn't have the facility so I don't use it very often).

Anyway, once that was done, we finished packing up and went to the check-in at the terminal, rather hoping for an earlier crossing, but we have never seen so many motor homes waiting to cross, so no chance of that.  There were 4 crossings that hour, though, so we didn't have to wait - they said our crossing had been "rescheduled" by 15 minutes, but in fact it did actually set off on time.

And then a long, slow drive up the M20 and across London, until we finally got home.  And then the endless hard work in unpacking the van and putting things away, but it got done at last.  And look - after five years, we nearly have a garden again:

Beer and Castles Route, 31 May

We have been in four countries today. We started off in Germany, where they were having yet another public holiday, but we found a petrol station with attached bakery to get both diesel and rolls for lunch. Then we set off on the long, long trail back to Calais, across Holland and Belgium, with endless road works and delays. We ended up in Ostende, where we stopped for a cup of tea and to stretch our legs, and then asked the Sat-nav to take us the rest of the way not on the motorway. It was a delightful drive alongside one of the many canals, and then through Dunkerque, a town where we've been many times before but we couldn't recognise anywhere, for some reason. Neither of us could, it wasn't just me being feeble.

Then we stopped at the big Auchan outside Dunkerque where we ate supper in. Flunch (not too gruesome!) and did a bit of shopping before heading back to the motorway for the final, quick and easy, run to Calais.

Beer and Castles Route, 30 May

Today was All About Wuppertal. And there is one thing which defines Wuppertal and that is the Schwebebahn, or suspended railway, which runs about 25 km through the town and serves the function of a metro or tram.

Citymapper works here, which is always a plus,and we discovered we could buy a day ticket that covered all the public transport in the area for €10.30 for both of us. They were available from the bus driver, too, so we didn't have the boring thing of having to pay for a single ticket to the station!

We found the right bus stop which was not far from the aire, and the bus came in about 5 minutes. It dropped us off at the Oberbarmen station which is one end of the line.

 

It really is an amazing feat of engineering, but what we didn't expect was that the cars would sway about - most disconcerting, and slightly sick-making. On subsequent rides we learnt that sitting as near the front of the train as possible minimised this.

We went to the far end of the line and, after stretching our legs round Woolworths and DM, came back to what we thought was the main town hall but it wasn't, so we got a bus to the central station and then the Schwebebahn again to the station called Alter Markt, where there was a brewery and a town hall, and a cafe where I used the loo and we ordered lunch, which was a big mistake as it took over an hour to arrive and was nothing special when it did. How long does it take to put salad and chicken on a flatbread?

Anyway, it came at last, and we decided to get a bus back to the aire that went a different way and that stopped just outside it. This was very pleasant, but we felt we had done Wuppertal by then, so after a cup of tea and using the services we headed on. First port of call was a supermarket as tomorrow is yet another bank holiday in this part of Germany (how many holidays in one month do you need?), so we had to get the last German things plus milk and yoghurt and so on. And then a rather slow drive to Düren and the aire we have stayed at twice before. We are definitely homeward bound.

Beer and Castles Route, 29 May

Today started off hot, and I decided to walk to the bakery to get rolls for lunch, and after using the services, we set sail for Wuppertal. The SW wanted to go across country through one or two marked scenic routes although, as he said, everywhere is scenic at this time of year. So we put various way points into the Sat-nav and eventually ended up at Stockum, on the Möhnesee, for lunch. There was a kiosk so we went to buy sausages, only to find that this was all they were, just on a plate by themselves, so we were glad of our rolls!

It was a long drive in the afternoon, too, and by the time we arrived at the camp site it was pouring with rain, so we haven't been out. Tomorrow will probably be nice, though.

Beer and Castles Route, 28 May

It was going to be a hot morning, so when the Swan Whisperer went for his run, I walked up to the Netto supermarket to do the day's shopping before breakfast. Of course he got back before I did and didn't have a key, so texted to find out where I was and then arrived to demand to borrow my key just as I was trying to pack and pay. So I made him walk back with me to cool down.

We had breakfast outside, and then headed on, only to find that the car wash place where you were supposed to pay and there were services had closed down, so we got our night for free.

We made a wrong turning, not believing the Sat-nav when it said that this very minor road was the B85, but we backtracked when we realised we were wrong and followed it around some serious hairpin bends until it ended at a town called Berka. And so we have travelled most of it (barring the odd detour) all the way from Passau!

So now along the A38 to Göttingen. We had originally planned to go to Fritzlar, but changed our minds. We are parked in an aire in the car park of a spa complex, with services, etc. The SW went in to see the town but said it wasn't very pretty.

It is very hot, and I think it will storm soon. We ate supper outside, but I don't think we'll leave the chairs and picnic table out tonight, nor have the skylights open!