Early Winter, Saturday 4 December 2021

Because Sangatte is so near the UK, but an hour ahead, it didn't even begin to try to get light until nearly 08:30, at which point the Swan Whisperer decided to go for a run.  No sooner had he set foot out of doors than it began to rain, and by the time he got back, he was soaked to the skin.  Nothing that a hot shower couldn't help, but unfortunately one of the seat cushions has got very wet from where he put his wet clothes, and I am sure that it will be covered in sooty mould when next we see it.  He says it will dry, and so it will, but will it dry before the sooty mould sets in?

Meanwhile, I'd done a bit of packing and got breakfast ready, and after breakfast we drove over to Cité Europe where I did a final last shopping in Carrefour (I didn't take any photos today, so this is the second photo of the display of dried fruits - which I bought one of - that I took ten days ago). 

I also bought marrons glacés and chocolate orange peel for Christmas.  And one or two other things, like a chicken for tomorrow and some liver (the Swan Whisperer adores it, and it is so much more easily bought in France than here) for later in the week.

Then it was time to head for the Eurotunnel terminal, so we went through - again, they wanted the card I had booked the crossing with, despite my having cancelled it with them.  The very nice man who came to rescue us said it was a known bug in their programming, and he had had to help several people in the exact same situation.  But I had succeeded (with much swearing) in uploading all our documentation this time, so we didn't have to drone round the houses, and, apart from a minor contretemps with French passport control because their counterparts at Folkestone hadn't stamped our passports with the date of entry into France, we got through very quickly and ended up on the noon crossing, rather than the 12:20 on which we were booked.

But setting our watches to UK time didn't mean resetting our stomachs, so we stopped at Clackett Lane Services to eat our lunch (thus taking the final meal of the holiday in the same place as we had the first one), and arrived in our village just as the wedding party was leaving - we had been uninvited, or should I say disinvited, when the new restrictions came in.  So we had a brief word with our daughter and family, and then stopped again to greet the bride and groom and congratulate them in passing.  And, indeed, for a brief word with my mother and sister, and with my other nephew and his partner, who were staying.  My sister had kindly brought our unwanted wedding garments downstairs so we could load them on top of everything else.  I am quite sure that dress is jinxed - every time I want to wear it to a wedding, something happens and I can't go!

They all went off to the reception, and we transferred everything to the car, and made sure we had everything from the motor home.  And the Swan Whisperer washed it, and we turned off the fridge and the electricity (and he had to run back to turn off the gas) and emptied the loo and what was left of the grey water and the clean water..... and so back to London and mammoth unpacking and much swearing when there was no room in the cupboards for things!  Some of my purchases have had to stay in their crate.  I must go and finish unpacking the clothes I didn't wear, and the washing kit, etc..... am very tired tonight, but as we now have to isolate until we can get our PCR tests back, I won't need to do anything much tomorrow.

We're now planning to hibernate, more or less, until the end of February or the beginning of March; we will check up on the motor home when we go down at Christmas, though, and there may be one or two Expotitions between now and then.  Which will be reported on!

Early Winter, Friday 3 December 2021

The last full day of the holiday, so of course I have to feel rotten - aching, exhausted, and really not up to par. And still coughing nicely, although less than before. As I said, if I were at home, I'd take a test, and probably will when I get home tomorrow, although as I have to self-isolate anyway until the results of our day 2 PCR tests come through, not much point, really.

The Swan Whisperer went for a walk in the morning, having been out first thing to find a boulangerie for croissants, while I read and dozed and researched a new smartphone (mine is giving notice to quit). Then I finally got dressed and we had lunch, and then drove up to Sangatte in the rain. We stopped at Auchan and I did about half of the necessary shopping, and then I made us a mushroom omelette for supper. And now I am snuggled up in bed with a hot water bottle! I feel quite a lot better this evening, so hope it was only a 24-hour bug. 

Early winter, Thursday 2 December 2021

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, and came back not only with croissants for breakfast (yum), but also with the information that the tram stop into Reims was only a few metres away. 

So, after a hiatus when we couldn't find my woolly hat (it had been put away, but its matching scarf had not, hence the confusion), we set off. Tram tickets, like bus tickets in the UK, are valid for an hour, and we made full use of our hour, as when we got to the Cathedral, we found there was a Christmas Market.  One of the best ones we have been to, actually.  We had to wear a mask and show our vaccine certificates to get in (I accidentally showed the photo I had taken of my Bratwurst supper, which made us all laugh - I had opened the right picture, but must have clicked on "next" or something.  Oh well, no harm done! 

The market was much bigger than we first thought, and it was a great pity that we were neither hungry enough to make the most of the proffered samples of all kinds of goodies, from cheese to prunes and boiled sweets and everything in between, nor was it the right sort of time of day for glühwein (and the SW was driving, anyway), but we bought gingerbread for the boys (a Father Christmas and a St Nicholas, which will, of course, be for Boy 2), and ended up with a mug of mulled orange juice, which had slightly too  much cinnamon for my taste, but was otherwise very good. 

We got back on the tram with about 2 minutes to spare on our tickets and, once back at the motor home, used the services and then headed off. 

We stopped for lunch at a lovely aire in a village called Corbeny, which was by an artificial lake or pond of some kind.

It would have been a lovely place to spend the night, but there were no services of any kind, and anyway, it was only lunch time.  So we drove on to this aire, taking our time and going cross-country. This is the municipal aire of Marcoing, just outside Cambrai.  It is okay; the fresh water is out of use for the winter, and there is nowhere to empty the loo, but they provide free electricity while the street lamps are on.  I gather they go off at midnight, but I expect they come on again in the morning.  It is not particularly attractive; it is by a canal lock, but you can't see it.  Still, once  you are indoors with all the shutters closed you can't see out anyway! 

Early winter, Wednesday 1 December 2021

Another horribly wet day, and I have developed a really bad cough, which is annoying and tiring. If I were at home I'd do a test, but not sure how to get them here.

We went to a Lidl this morning, which was a bust as they didn't have any fresh milk, and I got loo paper instead of kitchen paper by mistake, but they changed it for me. So we then programmed an E Leclerc in St Dizier into the SatNav, but when we got there there were barriers all round the car park, so we went to Intermarché instead, which didn't, and I got milk and a couple of other things, including "rognons sauce madère", which we both love, but haven't seen for ages - I thought they had stopped making them. We then had lunch, and then it rained and rained

while we drove to Reims to use the services there, and there was space in the motor home park here. It's ok, but a lot of traffic noise. We nearly went back to Chaméry, but didn't. 

We didn't eat the rognons, either, but i made a big vegetable stew, which I hoped would do twice, but it didn't! Oh well. And the rain has stopped, for now, at least. 

Early Winter, Tuesday 30 November 2021

It is raining. It has rained. It will rain. It will have been raining. It is also cold, wet and generally miserable.

We drove up the hill this morning into Homberg Haut Old Town, which would have been nicer in nicer weather. As it was, I stayed put while the Swan Whisperer took a couple of photographs for me.

We drove on a bit, and I got my only exercise of the day plodging round a Super U - I think almost my favourite of the French chains. I got some nice shower gel, too, both for me and for MrsRev.

We stopped at Pont-au-Mousson for lunch, and then drove to Toul, but the water was out of use for repairs, so we drove oa couple of miles to this aire at Bruley. There is a lot of disagreement on Park4Night as to which is better - here or Toul. They seem much of a muchness to me, although there is no electricity here. But thete are services!

Early winter, 29 November 2021

It was a beautiful, bright early winter orning; blue skies and sunshine, although not exactly warm.  I gather the Swan Whisperer went for a run, but as I had fallen asleep again, I wasn't aware of it until he came back! 

Once we had had breakfast, it was time to catch the bus into the centre of Kehl,

where I visited Müller and got some 4711 shower gel, and then DM where I got moisturiser and miniature shower gels.  Finally I parked the Swan Whisperer at a coffee shop and did a shopping in Edeka, and then joined him for coffee, and we walked back to the bus stop in good time for the bus back to the camp site. 

Lunch was the next order of the day, although I found I wasn't actually hungry.  Then we used the services, and got ready to leave Germany.  By this time, it had clouded over, and was beginning to snow!  

On our drive over here (a town called Hoburg Haut in Lorraine), the weather varied between rain, sleety rain, sleety snow and snow, depending on the altitude.  But just as we arrived at our parking place (free, but electricity is very expensive so we are doing without), the sun came out again, thus proving me right when I told the SW that we would arrive before it was quite dark! 

Early winter, Advent Sunday 28 November 2021

When I woke in the night, I was aware that the temperature gradient between the inside and the outside of my duvet was extremely sharp, and, indeed, when the Swan Whisperer got up to make tea, he said it was 8° inside and only 3° outside! Fortunately, the heating is very efficient, so that state of affairs didn't last long!

We were away by 10, and drive over to Kehl. The idea had been to visit the Christmas Market in Strasbourg, but when push came to shove it was raining and rather miserable and I decided I really didn't want to walk round in a mask with my glasses so fogged up I can't see - unlike the SW, I am even worse off without them! So I stayed in the van while he went to explore, and had a peaceful afternoon knitting and reading, and there might have been a nap...

But I still got my bratwurst, as that is what we had for supper! 

Early Winter, Saturday 27 November 2021.

The parkrun duly happened, but wet and slippery paths led to the SW posting a time of >26 minutes, which he is not pleased with. And he left his phone in the van so the run won't have registered on Strava.

While he was running, I was delighted to see a red squirrel out of the window! 

The camp site had put its running water out of use for the winter, so we had to top up with a bucket, and it seemed to have nowhere to empty the grey at any time of year, so that had to be done a crateful at a time. Not impressed. 

Once we were finally ready we drove south towards Eberbach, stopping once for diesel and milk. We were visiting our niece, her husband avd very new (8 week) baby daughter. Her husband cooked us up a Persian feast, which was delicious, and we have a doggy bag!

Now we are parked up by the Necker and wondering what on earth to do now that we are supposed to get a PCR test and isolate until the results come. None of the providers have updated their websites yet, so I can't order tests, even if we do come home early, and last time my test went astray but nobody checked up! You have to have bought the tests to enter the country, but taking them seems to be another matter! 

Early winter, Friday 26 November 2021

So today was the long-awaited visit to the Christmas markets.  The camp site is about 850 metres from the railway station, which is very basic - single-track, one platform and just a ticket machine.  It is also not a very nice walk as for most of the way there is no pavement and the verge, at this time of year, is leafy and muddy.  However, the camp site does h Ave the merit of being only about 250 metres from the parkrun, just right for tomorrow morning! 

We caught the 10:35, as we had hoped to do, and it was not long before we were in the city and looking for the metro lines that would take us to the start of the markets.  We eventually found them (Frankfurt is not very good at telling you where the various stations are, nor where the relevant lines are once you are there!) and took the metro 2 stops to Dom/Roemer, where the market was supposed to start.  Of ourse, there was no sign of it, and the various maps provided bore absolutely no relation to real life, but we found it in the end.  And it was as enjoyable, and as tiring, as these things always are.  

The worst thing was that you had to wear a mask while you were there, which is, of course, fair enough, but out of doors, even with a mask that pinches your nose, your glasses steam up and stay that way - indoors, they eventually clear, and it is not a problem, but I was walking pretty much blind by the end and the Swan Whisperer, who can see a bit without his, had to guide me. 

Just as I had had enough, we found where the tourist buses went from, and enquired about taking the tour, but it was not until 13:00 and it was only about 12:15, so the SW suggested we had an early lunch and then took the bus.  I was desperate to sit down by then, so we dived into the nearest café, which turned out to be a Vietnamese place, specialising in noodles with your choice of vegan, beef or shrimp.  I had the vegan, with rice noodles, and the SW had the beef with ramen noodles and very good they were too!  I could only manage about half of mine!  To drink we had something called apfelwein which it turns out is a local speciality, but neither of us liked it much, and we didn't finish our glasses.  Not the bratwurst and glühwein one expects of a Christmas Market, but still a lovely lunch! 

Then it was time for the City tour, which was not quite as good as it could have been as the commentary didn't sync with the scenery!   All the same, a good overview of the city. 

Then we found (eventually) a ReWe to do our shopping, and I left the SW sitting on the husband bench while I did it, although I think we probably will need to find more milk tomorrow.  But after that, I don't know what we did wrong but we had to walk miles and miles to the S-Bahn, which was not at all where I thought it was (turned out that was a different station).  Once we found it, we then had to find the right line and direction, which also took forever - some decent signposts would be a plan, Frankfurt!  But we found it in the end. 

We would have missed our train had we changed at the Hauptbahnhof, but we could stay on a further 2 or 3 stops and change there, and then had 3-4 minutes to wait for our train.  And then the long, dreary and by now very wet walk to the campsite, and a much-needed cp of tea!  I changed into pyjamas as I was all wet round the feet and ankles - my trainers are fine on wet pavements, but on puddly verges?  Not so much!  

Early winter, Thursday 25 November

Despite the very long nap yesterday I slept pretty well last night.  Woke up at 05:45 and misread my watch - could have sworn it said 06:45, so took my pill and then realised when I opened my tablet!  So went back to sleep until about 07:15.

When we had finished breakfast, we went out for a walk - down to the river and along it,

and then up and back along the main shopping drag.  We stopped to buy bread and rolls - the only things we needed for today - and then after coffee we headed on. 

We stopped at a wonderful parking space with a glorious view over the Rhine to have lunch,

and then drove on, arriving at this campsite in Offenthal at about 15:30.  Unfortunately the owner was out and we hung around in the cold for what felt like ages before he arrived, but he was very nice when he did arrive.  The only thing is that the water has been turned off for the winter except in the sanitary block, so we have to fill our tank with a bucket, but that is not really a problem. Other than that, we are within walking distance of the station for tomorrow and of the parkrun for Saturday. 

Early winter, Wednesday 24 November 2021

I really haven't done much today.  The insomnia and stress of the past few days finally caught up with me. 

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, as he usually does in Düren, and after breakfast we used the services and set off.  Our first port of call was a ReWe where I did some shopping and then we set sail for Königswinter, stopping en route to buy beer and return the crate of empties that has been sitting in the back of the motor home for the past two years or so!  

We arrived in Königswinter in time for a very late lunch and after it the Swan Whisperer went on his favourite walk over the top of the Drachenfels, down the other side and back along the river.  I went to have a nap, intending to wake after half an hour or so and go for a walk, but in fact I slept all afternoon and kept dowsing off again when I was trying to wake up.  

So supper was quite the wrong nationality, as it was Italian - tortellini and tomato sauce, bought with last week's Lidl Plus coupons!  

Early winter, 22-23 November 2021

Our niece who lives in Germany has a new baby, and (some of) the Christmas markets are on. We are double vaccinated, boostered and flu jabbed.  So we decided to have a last trip before winter really sets in.  

We did all the paperwork for France, Belgium and Germany but so far all we have been asked to show was our vaccination certificates.   I did take a lateral flow test yesterday, and the Swan Whisperer did on Saturday - both negative, of course.  

So, anyway, I was on grandmother duty yesterday (not that this is onerous, these days - I pick up Boy 2 from school, and really that's about it!  Both boys go off on their own concerns and I only see them again when it is time for Boy 2 to get changed for football training!), and meanwhile the Swan Whisperer loaded up the car and went to Sussex to pick up the motor home.  I got a Thameslink from St Pancras to Redhill and we arrived in the station at about the same time.  We had thought to eat in the car park there, but it was pick up/drop off only so we ended up eating our supper at Clackett Lane services. 

The journey went smoothly, although I had trouble checking in as I hadn't noted the booking number (since rectified) and I no longer use the debit card I originally booked the Frequent Traveller tickets on.  Last time, they recognised the number plate and didn't ask for confirmation. However, it got sorted out and we got on our booked crossing, at 20:16.  We parked up at Sangatte for the night, although I didn't sleep very well. 

First port of all this morning was, of course, Carrefour, where I did a shopping and enjoyed looking at the Christmas stuff that the French are so good at.  I loved the traysful of dried fruit and similar dessert options, and will definitely buy one on the way home.   

We had done all the paperwork to cross Belgium and enter Germany, but didn't need it.  We did have to upload our sworn statements to Eurotunnel, but French passport control only wanted to see our vaccination certificates as well as our passports.   Still, I'd rather have the paperwork down and not need it than not have it when wanted. 

It was a long and dreary drive across Belgium in the rain.   We stopped at some random services for lunch and again to fix the wing mirror which had gone off station and not really safe to adjust it when moving.  

Eventually we arrived in Düren, where we have stayed several times before.  The SW needed milk, so when we had had a cup of tea we went to the Lidl which I discovered last time is just round the corner.  I switched my Lidl Plus to Germany and got some coupons (pause to show vaccination certificates to site owner, who was impressed that we'd been boostered).  We were bemused by the variety of Advent calendars on offer - one, I nearly bought, was jams and one very intriguing one was a breakfast one!  

Now back at the motor home for a quiet evening.  We have the heating on and the place is sealed tight, so I think I will open a skylight in the bathroom soon, as it is getting a bit stuffy! 

The Roald Dahl Museum, Great Missenden

This trip had originally been scheduled for the end of the summer holidays, when The Boy was to have his first full day at secondary school, and was to have been Boy Two's birthday present from his grandfather.  However, the boys both came down with Covid-19 (fortunately not badly - Boy Two was almost asymptomatic) so the trip had to be cancelled - and both the museum and Chiltern Railways were very good about refunding tickets.

So the trip was postponed until half-term, and The Boy honoured us with his company, too.  The Daughter is now working in Marylebone Road, so the Swan Whisperer and I went up to Baker Street Station to meet them at her offices.  We then found a bus would take us back along the road to Marylebone Station, which was nice of it, and were in good time for our train to Great Missenden with Chiltern Railways. 

Unfortunately, it was not a pleasant journey.  The lights had not been switched on in our carriage, and a lot of the first part of the run is in a tunnel!  And when I went to the loo, I can't begin to tell you how indescribably filthy it was.  Not a pleasant experience, and I warned the others off it!

We arrived at Great Missenden at last, and it was only a short walk to the museum.  Which was lovely if you like Roald Dahl, which the boys do.  A lot of information about his life and, towards the end, a creative sort of room where you could make up sentences with fridge magnets, and various other crafts.

Then it was nearly lunchtime and, at The Boy's request we went back to a café called "Matilda's" nearer the station - he said he had been attracted by a picture of the "freakshake"-type milkshake outside, but when push came to shove, they were "off" as the ice-cream machine had broken.  The café was extremely busy and it took a good half hour for our food to arrive.  At first we sat outside, but the boys got very cold so when a table came free inside, we took it.  I had chosen poached egg on avocado toast, which was lovely but very filling (two of them!), and with feta cheese underneath.  The Swan Whisperer had an All Day Breakfast; Boy Two had a burger he couldn't quite finish, and the Boy had a "mixed shish", with chicken and lamb, which came on a bed of rice, with salad.  He managed most of it - pre-teen boys appear to have hollow legs!  

After this, there was a bit over an hour before our train back, so the menfolk went on the nearby "countryside trail", which was about an hour's walk.  I wasn't up for that, so I decided to finish the "village trail" which was mostly along the village street, but then a diversion up to the church, which was a lot father than I thought it was going to be!

  But worth the walk.  I didn't go and find Dahl's grave, but spent a while looking round the church and sitting quietly, and then I walked back into the village and got a cup of tea I didn't really want at the museum café where I'd arranged to meet the others.  They finished my tea between them on the walk back to the station.

The train for London was much better than the one out, as the lights were working!  I didn't try the loo, though. I felt rather sorry for Boy Two, though, as he is not considered old enough to have a phone, and at one stage on the journey, the Swan Whisperer, The Boy and I were all engrossed on ours!  I said as much, but he just laughed.

And then a bus two stops along Marylebone Road, and we returned the boys to their mother before heading home ourselves.  I have been asleep more or less ever since, having done >10k steps today!

From Saleilles, 16 October 2021

The Swan Whisperer did the Bois de Boulogne parkrun this morning, 23'26", which he is quite pleased with.  I, meanwhile, had been to the campsite shop and bought croissants and a baguette.  They wouldn't sell me a demi-baguette, and insisted on being paid in cash - only about the 3rd time I've used cash since this pandemic began!

And after breakfast it was time to leave and to head back to Sangatte for our final night in France.  I did a final shopping, including tea and coffee for us and some nice bits for my mother and sister.  And that's about it, really.  I didn't take any photos today so here is one from earlier in the holiday. 

When we get back I must go through these post and add in the bits I'd forgotten, like the road cut into the rocks in the Pyrenees, very like the Gorges de la Bourne, and the fact that so many shops in Mehun were closed down...  And add locations, too.  It has been a lovely holiday, and the "new" motorhome at last feels like home.  I do hope it won't be too long before we can get away again - assuming we are not locked down or locked in to our own borders, hopefully at the end of November. 

From Saleilles, 15 October 2021

This morningthe Swan Whisperer got croissants, and after breakfast we went for a lovely walk around Mehun-sur-Yèvre, which was as lovely as I had thought it was going to be. 

There are loads of photos on my Facebook page if you want to see them.  After our walk, we had coffee - even I had a second cup - and after emptying the grey and the loo we headed on up to Paris.  

We stopped at a rather nice service area for a leisurely lunch, and came off the motorway a little early to get diesel in an Auchan, but that near Paris it wasn't very cheap. 

We are at the campsite we used before, for our 40th wedding anniversary in 2019, which is very crowded, but not unpleasant.  The idea is for the Swan Whisperer to do the Bois de Boulogne parkrun, which will, I think, be the fifth out of the 8 parkrun in France!  They are not wildly popular.... 

From Saleilles, 14 October 2021

A much better day today.  We were not moved on during the night, nor in the morning, either! It was a very cold night and there was a sharp frost, I had to pull my rug over me and a hot-water bottle at my feet!  Bt the heating is incredibly efficient in the bedroom and bathroom area, so it soon warmed up this morning. 

The Swan Whisperer went and bought croissants from the local boulangerie, and after breakfast we drove the few minutes to the daytime motorhome park at the Panoramic du Puy de Dome. 

This is a little train that takes you up the Puy de Dome, almost to the top, and you can walk up from there. 

It was seriously lovely - wonderful views, my photos can't possibly do it justice. 

But bitterly cold; the top of the Dome is 1,450 above sea level and een at the bottom railway station it's over 900 metres. 

Sadly, my silly lungs went back on me as I tried to go up the steps to the top, and apart from being out of breath I started to feel really sick, so stopped 3/4 of the way to the top and went back down, leaving the SW to go the rest of the way.  When he got down, we wandered around a bit, but there was a silly amount of time before the next train down - not enough time to get a coffee, but too much to just go and sit on the platform.

But eventually it was time to get the train back down the mountain, by which time I was feeling a lot better, but still very aware that I'd been badly out of breath, and we had a coffee before we went back to the motor home.

We drove about 20 km to a supermarket en route, which was the anchor for an enormous shopping mall.  I did a small shopping, and then we had lunch before heading up the motorway to this little town called Mehun-sur-Yèvre (I slept all the way) where we are parked up by a disused canal, which is absolutely lovely,

and the trees are suddenly all autumnal.  The SW has gone for a walk (he is just on his way back, I can see him) and I hope to do the same in the morning. 

From Saleilles, 13 October 2021

This has been a seriously frustrating day!  It started off all right, with getting up and using the services, etc.  It was very cold overnight, and when the heating came on in the morning it suddenly stopped, which meant the gas had run out, so the Swan Whisperer had to change the cylinder  before we could have any hot water.  But not really a problem.  So after breakfast we went into the village to go the Super U where cylinders could be exchanged, which the SW did while I had been going to do a shopping, but the place absolutely stank, as though something had died in there.  I really wasn't about to buy any food in there, so just got water, some cleaner for the sink, which is very stained, and some citric acid, which I know my mother wants for making lemonade, and more frustration, it's not letting me link!  

So far, so not very good, but then we thought of things we might like to do and to see in the area.  Our first idea was the "Vélotrain" in St-Eulalie-de-Cernon, but the map showed that there was no motorhome access there, so that was a bust.  Then we thought we would look at one of the cheese factories, but the ones we saw on the roundabout, easily accessible, did not keep their visitor centres there, so we had to come away.  We did find a boulangerie which did us some very nice sandwiches for lunch, which we ended up eating in the car park of an E Leclerc just outside Millau - we had, by that stage, driven under the eponymous viaduct, as spectacular as ever.  

We hoped, then, to use the little tourist train which runs around Millau, but the address given us on Google Maps was totally wrong, and we ended up in a residential/light industrial area.  

By this time it was getting on, so we thought we would make tracks to where we had hoped to spend the night.  It is a lovely drive up the A75.  We stopped at the Garabit service area to see the eponymous railway bridge which is beautiful,

but it was a lot further from Millau than either of us remembered - about 100 km further north.  So a good place to have a cup of tea and to look at the information panels about the construction of the bridge.  

Then we drove on, hoping to find the France Passion farm where we had planned to spend the night, but when we got there, we think we found the right place, but no sign of any France Passion badges, and nobody was around.  So we came away and tried and tried to find other places to spend the night, but ended up driving round and round the same tiny roads as though we had got into an infinite loop.  We did get out in the end, but the place Park4Night said was nice firmly said no camping between 10:00 pm and 07:00.  Fortunately there is a large car-park across the road for the tourist centre, and we have parked up; I just hope it will be okay and they won't try to move us on at 2:00 am!  We hope not!

And the the fridge decided to play silly buggers, like it did last July, but I noticed on the inside of the door that it said how to reset it, so I did and it behaved itself again.  So that's all right.  But oh, what a frustrating day!  I have had a large whisky, which has helped.  

From Saleilles, 12 October 2021

The Swan Whisperer went for a run this morning, as he always does at Mas Alart, reappearing just as I was getting up.  So I got breakfast, for once while he got civilised, and after saying goodbye we headed off. 

First port of call was Lidl in Saleilles, which is new since we were last here in March 2018.  It was rather awkward to get into because the obvious roundabout was closed due to road works, so we had to go round the houses, but we got there in the end and I was able to use my Lidl Plus card, which pleased me, and got 25% off some ham. 

Then it was time to leave the Pyrenees.  Today we went on the motorway all the way, as the SW said he was sick of roundabouts.  And anyway, much of it was the A75, which is both free and spectacular. 

We stopped in a random aire for lunch which had a regional products area  - in hindsight, I should have bought some Roquefort at the regional products shop there, as by the time we got to Roquefort itself, I was exhausted and a bit wheezy for some reason.  The SW went on an explore and we decided, on balance, not to buy any this time.  We do both like it, but you can even get it in Lidl at home!

By this time we had gone past our planned stopping-place at Sainte-Eulalie-en-Cernon, so we decided not to retrace our steps but to go a little further to Saint-Affrique, where we knew there was a Camping-Car Park aire, in a former campsite, so we are installed here with electricity and full services.  The SW went for an explore and said it is a very pedestrian-unfriendly town, so we may end up taking the van to Super U in the morning, should we decide we need shopping done.  I am not sure that we will, though.  We shall see. 

At Saleilles, 11 October 2021

I had planned, this morning, to get up while the Swan Whisperer was having his run, and go to the nearby bakery for croissants.  Only he completely foiled me by not going for a run, and announced that "he was getting up now".  So I had to send him for croissants, instead. 

We left Limoux at about 10:00 a.m., having told the satnav to take us across country.  We were so very glad we did - it was a really, really lovely drive!  The roads were (mostly) excellent, and very scenic.  We did stop on the outskirts of Limoux for diesel and shopping, and then again for a bit because we could, but when we began to think of stopping somewhere for lunch, there was a lovely picnic area just outside Maury. 

The "train rouge" ran alongside the car park, and we were rather startled to see a train as we thought they did not run on Mondays. 

This, of course, reminded me of "Le train jaune" which runs up to La Carol-Latour, but, alas, it is out of service this month and I really don't fancy a replacement bus service!  Maybe next time.

We were going to be far too early at Mas Alart - it sells lovely wine, and is beautifully remote, but there is nothing to do when you get there except buy wine!  So we bypassed it and went to the Mediterranean where we watched - I don't quite know what you would call them; they were not conventional kite-surfers (there were some of those), and not conventional sailboarders, either (there was at least one of those, too), but standing on boards that had a sort of keel underneath that they rose up on to cut through the water, and carrying sails that had two halves, to enable them to steer.  The idea seems to be to do jumps and so on, but only one of the people we watched tried, and not very successfully. 

So we went back to the van and had a cup of tea, and then drove to Mas Alart - which is packed out.  Always before when we have been here, we have either been the only van, or at most one other, but there are five or six others here tonight.  We have bought a lot of their delicious rosé, and some of their white, although right now I'm drinking white from Juigné-sur-Loire. 

Meanwhile the SW's results from Saturday are in, and he had a time of 23'16", but not, alas, first in his age grade.  And I had a phone call from King's College Hospital confirming that I do not have cancer, but must have another colonoscopy in three  years time.  So all good stuff..... 

To Saleilles, 10 October 2021

This morning we got up bedtimes and when I had showered and dressed, I went to the boulangerie across the road to buy a croissant for me and a pain au chocolate for the Swan Whisperer which we enjoyed after our boiled eggs. 

Then it was time to go back into Pau, to go to church.  They are still at the stage of asking you to reserve seats if you wish to attend public worship, so I had emailed them the previous day to do so.  We were warmly welcomed, and I think both of us enjoyed the service.  However, there was one awkward moment during the giving of Communion (Bread only, as is usual nowadays).  The chancel had been closed off by the rood screen (although there was a small door left open by the organ) and the actual organ console moved to the middle. 

The organist and the soloist were behind the screen, and when it came to receiving, they both pushed their hands through the railing, like beggars - appropriate, I suppose, but it made both the SW and me laugh. 

They can't, of course, serve coffee after church just now, so we set off fairly soon for what is, I think, the 2nd-longest drive of the holiday, to a town called Limoux.  We went via motorway, but it was a fairly scenic one, and every now and then we caught glimpses of the Pyrenees on the horizon!  We stopped fairly soon for coffee, hoping to be able to empty the grey, but he W, who went to investigate, found that the drain was blocked and unusable.  So we went on, and half an hour later stopped for lunch in a rest area, and then we did not stop again until we got here.  

Here is a very nice little aire, with full services (which we have used) and a piece of ground in front of the Aube

where either boules or pétanque, I don't know the difference, was being played. 

The SW went for a walk and I had planned to go on a short one to reconnoitre the local boulangerie, but somehow that didn't happen.  So I flopped on the bed and reread "Emergency in the Pyrenees" (Well, I had to, didn't I? ) until it was time to get supper.  Which was cod loin with (packet) lemon butter sauce, mashed potato, cabbage and leeks, so we drank some of the white wine we bought from Juigné-sur-Loire, and very good it was, too!  Saleilles tomorrow!

To Saleilles, 9 October 2021

Well, we are now in the Pyrenees, but won't arrive in Saleilles for another two days.  But to begin at the beginning:

We were parked up for the night at a little park near Cubzenais so that the Swan Whisperer could do a parkrun. 

This duly happened - we don't have an actual time as something went wrong with the official time-keeping, but his Strava says it was a little oer 23 minutes, and he came in 3rd.   As is so often the case here, many of the runners were British, including one couple who said they had spent the night in a very nice aire near a chateau, with all amenities laid on!  I had half thought of walking a lap, but when push came to shove I wasn't up for it, so showered, dressed and had my own breakfast while he was out. 

By the time he came back, showered and had breakfast, etc, time was getting on.  First port of call was a Super U where he got diesel and I did a shopping, and then on to the motorway where one of the Aires advertised that it had motorhome services so we went there to empty the grey and the loo.  We didn't take on any water, though, as we have plenty for tonight and tomorrow. 

After that, I don't know what the Satnav thought it was playing at, but it took us off the motorway and all round the rocade around Bordeax, horrible traffic jams all the way!  We had thought we would stay on the motorway all the way!  Anyway, we eventually did arrive on the motorway to Pau which was very quiet.  We stopped twice, once for lunch and once for the SW to make himself some coffee.  I still do not know why coffee wakes him up in the afternoon, but doesn't keep him awake at night. 

When we arrived in Pau, we discovered that the one and only motorhome aire was absolutely jam-packed solid with cars (and one or two motorhomes), so we had to come away.  We tried another place recommended by Park4Night, but it wasn't obvious where to go.  Eventually, we found this rather nice place in a suburb of Pau called Gan, which is much nicer than the original place! 

I think you are supposed to have a wine tasting, but we didn't.  Anyway, only about half an hour from the centre of Pau.  Abd best of all, there is a bakery just across the road which will be open tomorrow so we can have croissants for breakfast!  First time this holiday. 

To Saleilles, 8 October 2021

We did not hurry this morning, and it was not far off noon before we got away, having used the services and made sure we had plenty of water, etc, as we will be without for the next two nights.

Our drive today was enlivened by the Swan Whisperer's desire to see the sea (why, when he could take a train to Brighton any day at home, I do not know), so after calling in at a Carrefour Market (why was my Carrefour card valid, but not my coupon? ) to shop, we drove to Châtelaillon Plage where there was a very useful camping-car park that charged during July and August, but not the rest of the year.  So we parked up there and had lunch, and then went for a wander down to the beach and back. 

French seaside resorts give off a very different vibe to British ones, but, like them, are unmistakable.  This one would have been nicer had the tide been in, but it was as out as it could be, although I think it had started coming in by the time we left. 

Then it was time to set off again and once we got past Saintes we decided to remove the Satnav's prohibition on toll roads and came down the motorway the rest of the way to Cubnezais, which we are visiting because there is a parkrun here tomorrow morning.  The Swan Whisperer has walked the course (it is 3 and a bit laps, but he only did one lap) and soon I shall get supper.  

To Saleilles, 7 October 2021

Somehow I haven't done very much today.  Our friend J came round for coffee; it was lovely to see her and catch up on her news.  

After that it was time to move on.  Our first port of call was an E Leclerc - I was not very impressed, as I queued for ages at customer service to enquire about using their scan'n'shop devices, only to be told they were no longer in use.  Then it was totally not obvious where, or even whether, you should weigh your loose produce before taking it to the checkout - fortunately a very kind woman took my apples and figs and weighed them for me.  Someone else said you had to know where they were as it was not at all obvious, which made me feel better!

The Swan Whisperer said we should go to Fontévraut for lunch, as it wasn't very far out of our way.  I didn't feel like going up to the chateau so he went by himself, and then we drove on to this place.  He said it was a long old drive - I had a nap - but that is his fault for wanting to go cross-country rather than on the motorway (I do agree, it is nicer!).  

"Here" is a little village called Damvix,  which I thought was such a lovely name.  We are in a Camping-car Park aire; I joined the network a while ago and this was the first time I had used the card. 

You preload it with some money (you can refill online or at the sites) and then scan it at the entrance and exit to the aire.  Full services and electricity provided, but no sanitary block. Also Wi-Fi, but it is very slow and I can't stream my YouTube videos.  Cheaper than a conventional camp site, but not as many facilities.  This holiday is a mix of free Aires, France Passion, campsites and these places. 

To Saleilles, 6 October

Tonight we are staying in the exact same place we stayed 6 year ago tonight, on our very first motorhome tour. 

However.  The day started well with a run (for the Swan Whisperer) and a walk (for me) around the lakes where we had parked up. 

But after that it all went a bit pear-shaped.  First of all our friend messaged us to cancel, although we have arranged to have coffee with her tomorrow, so that will be all right.  But I haven't cooked for anybody for so long.... 

Then we had trouble finding a supermarket where we could actually take the van - they all seemed to have !height barriers.  Eventually we found a Lidl and two cars were just leaving as we arrived, so that was all right except I didn't work out how to use my Lidl Plus card in French until too late!  Plus their coupons are a bit pants this week!  

Then we headed on towards somewhere the Swan Whisperer wanted to visit and on the way found an E Leclerc which had  open parking and also a petrol station - we wanted diesel, and I could have done my shopping there!  Ah well, Lidl in France is a bit different to the English version (although very similar in many ways), and there will be other days. 

I don't know what the Swan Whisperer was thinking when he chose this particular aire to stop for a cup of tea, but it was nothing special (although it did have working services which we used) and meant we ended up driving through Angers in the rush hour.  But we got here at the same time as another English couple, and shared a wine tasting, which was very good, but we were in urgent need of blotting-paper by the time it was over.  We bought some nice wine  2 of white, 2 plain rosé and two sparkling rosé.  

It was too late to cook the chicken casserole I had planned, so we had an omelette with onion, tomato, mushroom and cheese, and very good it was, too. And they are also a greengrocer, and had a lovely display of autumn squash!